Paging the plastics gluing gurus.

I'm sorting our 99 Yam Maj 250 runabout and whilst programming a spare
fob for the Datatool System3 (I know ..) I discovered the hinge arm
plastics for the glove box were broken, one off completely and has
signs of being glued before and of the other two moldings on the other
hinge, one is already broken through.

So, my intention is to re-glue all the bits then reinforce all four
'arms' with long thin machine screws (drilled, tapped / glued).

So, on the inside glove box lid is says ">AES<" so is that what it's
made from? If so, what solvent would I need to fuse the bits back
together pre pinning please.

The likely reason they broke in the first place is the hinges are very
crude and were nearly rusted solid.

T i m

 

Having done exactly that with an Audi A6 this week, I'd advise against even
trying. Total waste of time, coz it WILL fail again. Maybe not this week,
but the first time the user forgets it's been "repaired" and abuses it like
everyone does, it's back to square one.

There simply isn't enough "meat" on the hinge arms to allow for a good
repair unless it's welded but the hinges are so close to the "outside" of
the lid that discolouration and distortion are distinct possibilities.

However, the guy who owns this Audi wanted it done and I ended up using
carbon cloth and a few carbon slivers inserted into the arm to give it some
chance (not much I have to say) and he ended up paying through the fucking
nose for being a tool.

Get a new box lid and have done. Or get an unbroken one from a scrappers.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

I phoned the local bike shop earlier for a price and they will let me
know that and availability on Monday.

Failing that and looking at the design I'd say it's not a good one
(not **** proof) so I wonder how many good 11 year old second hand
ones there are out there. I'm pretty sure it's not the same design as
on the MKII either.

Luckily there is good access on this part bit for a drill in the
Dremel and I have a reasonable selection of taps and long and fine
machine screws to pin it with.

So, if there is no solvent for this >AES< plastic does that mean is it
a thermoplastic? If so I might first tack-weld it together (to get it
in shape) then pin. Nothing to lose etc (oh, and more time than
money).

FWIW I ripped the outer drivers door handle off the Rover a while back
(similar size of plastic hinge / arm) and as it was a Bank holiday
nothing was open for a replacement (should I have been able to find
one in the first place). I had to repair it so used some of that
super-glue with an accelerator then (machine) screwed and glued it
as-well and it's been fine ever since and I treat it as normal (for
nearly a year now).

Cheers, T i m

 

Good idea.

I've no idea, but it'll be weldable *if* you can find the correct rods for
it.

In that case, go for it. It's already fucked, so you can't kill it twice.

It's what's behind that door handle you have to worry about. After all, it's
a Rover


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

... and I get bits at cost plus a bit (I've known them 35 years and do
them emergency favours like turn bushes or sort the PC's / network
etc).

That's what I was beginning to wonder (and I know you can get material
from elsewhere on the lid but it was all too much faffing). I was just
going to stitch with the soldering iron but it was all going to get
messy.

Indeed, and generally why I'll give most things a go and more-often
than not to good effect [1]. So, I removed the old glue from the
completely broken one by putting some medium ally oxide paper between
the two parts and working them in situ (so the faces maintain the same
angles etc) then super glued them (it seems like the sort of plastic
that works with super glue). Now I'll just put a fine bolt through
each hinge leg and I reckon as long as I keep the hinges lubed (a bit
of silicone grease) it'll probably outlast the bike.

It's a 200K 218SD that cost me £100 five years ago so like most of my
vehicles 'worry' doesn't come into it. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. the hinges look like this:

http://preview.tinyurl.com/bgu84t

except that's off a later bike and so now in two sections. On the
big pic you can just see the steel clip / hinges and on my broken
hinge the steel clip had sort of rust fused with the plastic hinge pin
and probably what caused it to break (rather than being overloaded in
normal use etc). In fact I think the 'hinges' are open and sprung and
allow the lid to pull out (like a car sun visor) rather than break.

[1] Like your Audi job, the glove compartment for the Rover is
currently in the boot as that one isn't quite as straight forward to
repair as this Yam.

 

And presumably there's none on fleabay for your bike?

A man after my own heart. I gave up buying new or even expensive/decent cars
years ago.

The Audi was easy to do, but it's not a job I'd guarantee.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Not at the moment, no.

The only new car I've ever had was the 2L GL Sierra Estate Co car that
I bought off them when it was 10 years old for £25. Got rid when it
was 23 years old (for the Rover) and it was still going like a train.
How I miss all the carrying capacity, towing power (compared with the
1.9 Pug powered Rover anyway) and those long roof gutters (for Thule
roof bars). Easily took 5m lengths of steel tube (diy exhaust for Ford
V6 in CF Camper). Daughters TY80 used to go across the back as well.

Gotcha.

Cheers, T i m

 

Right, bend over Sir, that will be £116.30!

Repairing it is then. ;-)

T i m

 

Cheeky fucking butt-nuggets.

Or one off a scrapper/ebay.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Ain't they just.

I must admit I've not dealt with any bike breakers and don't think
half the car scrappy's are still around for that matter (the ones I
used to climb up 3 cars to get the bits I wanted type ones anyway).

In fact, the last time I phoned the scrappy to ask about a wing for
her Astra they told me to buy a new pattern one as it would be cheaper
(and it was £25, inc Vat).

I've have tried those Internet bike breakers but never had anything
back (or only a 'no can do').

Any recommendations re a goodun please (Norf Lundin / Herts).

Cheers, T i m

 

There was a "directive" a few years ago that forced scrapyards to be
concreted (to stop fluids draining into Mother Earth) and while some couold
afford it, many couldn't so they bailed. The ones still going aren't as free
and easy as they were, but there *are* still afew where the sheds are parked
3 high maiking for an inviting adventure playground.

Yep, for most Brit cars, pattern parts are as cheap as 2nd hand originals.
We use "Montmoss" for our pattern parts.

There's a good bike breakers near me, 2 in fact and I've managed to get
quite a lot of "unobtainium" bits over the years.

Can't help you there Soz.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19