Paging SIRPip and/or other car fixing foak

I don't think it can be offset unless something's *really* bent. I'm
pretty sure that some of the kingpin is in the bottom bush, just not much.

I may have to replace stuff we'll see. This thing won't be doing a lot
of miles and it's top speed is around 8mph, so imo it won't matter if
there's some slop there. I'd rather the wheel didn't fall off at an
inconvenient moment though.

No luck with the other side yet - the bolt's made of something harder
and it's blunted my LH drill. I'm gonna try the impact driver next.

Despite having lived here quite a few years now I still don't have the
engineering contacts that I used to when living in MK. Offcuts of steel
were quite easy to get in Bletchley, but around here I dunno. Let's see
how I get on and I may conme back to you on that.

I'm trying to learn. That's why I'm favouring using hydraulics rather
than hammers to move stuck stuff these days. I always try to do the
right thing but there's something in me that once I get to a certain
point with a hammer in my hand I don't stop until either the offending
item moves or I butcher it beyond repair.

 

That only works when you've got (for example) a steel bolt in an
aluminium casing, doesn't it? Try it on steel in steel and it'll just
erode the lot, Shirley.

 

Spark erosion's something I know quite a lot about actually.

The electrode is normally made from graphite, or copper, and only erodes
very slightly. Materials to be eroded are usually steel or aluminium.

It is very accurate, tolerances of a couple 0.001 mm are possible. So if
you had to remove a piece of steel from within steel it's definitely
possible.

If you're talking the tap-blaster technology types (I don't have any
experience of those though) I think they are a much cruder affair.

 

Jeebs that sounds pompous. How do you delete a post?

^Z ^Z ^Z ^Z it's not working!

 

A lot more than me, for example. I see it as a wondrous cure-all for
stuff stuck in stuff and that's about as far as I go.

Can't you knock one up with a bit of copper, jump leads and a battery?

Ah, now. The old boy up the hill has offered his services should I
come unstuck, but he mentioned he'd only do steel from aluminium, so
he's likely got the jump lead solution.

 

Nothing wrong with a hammer in the right place at the right time.
Copper and rawhide hammers are useful, I used them all the time on my
Land Rover.

How do you think they get repaired on the The African Savanna ?

Cheers,

Paul.

 

My BMW needed a rusted in broken pinch bolt spark-eroding out, or a new
hub costing over 300 sheets[1]. It cost 70 quid to have it
spark-eroded, so I'd only use it as a very last resort.

[1] Couldn't find a used one without the same problem.



--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Inter-Continental Hyperbolistic Missile , CBR600F-W racebike
in the making, TS250C, RD400F (somewhere)
BMW E46 318iSE (it's a car, not one of those 2-wheeled pieces of shite
they churn out)

 

Ouchy. Was there no other way to get it out ? Heat, etc ?

I remember buggering up the hub on my Megane after trying to extract
the remains of a wheel bolt that had been sheared off in it.
Thankfully a new hub from the scrapper was only £30

Paul.

 

All tried forst, but it was in a weird place deep in the other side of
the pinchy bit and not easy to access. The place who got it out rebuild
very early aero engines and are extremely useful for this kind of thing
and metal spraying



--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Inter-Continental Hyperbolistic Missile , CBR600F-W racebike
in the making, TS250C, RD400F (somewhere)
BMW E46 318iSE (it's a car, not one of those 2-wheeled pieces of shite
they churn out)

 

ytc. Gimme a call next time something like that comes up. I've got a
couple of old boys that sort that sort of shit out for beers.

 

Thanks squire, but Tich sorted it for me. I'm dreading doing the other
side now

--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Inter-Continental Hyperbolistic Missile , CBR600F-W racebike
in the making, TS250C, RD400F (somewhere)
BMW E46 318iSE (it's a car, not one of those 2-wheeled pieces of shite
they churn out)

 

On 06/02/2011 16:59, Simon Wilson wrote:

<snip>

<bad form alert>

Both grubscrews out but not the kingpins yet. I think getting the whole
axle off might be the right way to go, thanks Krusty.

I talked to the nice people at Thwaites and they're sending me a full
service manual and parts list FOC.

Not bad for a 40 year old machine.

I do like proper service.

</bfa>

 

I hope you've got a decent balljoint splitter, I doubt those steering
arms will give up without a fight.

 

Fairly decent. Sykes Pickavant IIRC.

I can get away by removing just the one balljoint (main arm that
connects to steering gearbox), and leave the other two connected.

 

How will making a batch of Lancaster Bomber help fix your dumper truck?

 

I'll get my camra out and take some pictures if that helps?

 

Heh!

 

Nice to know it still happens. I suppose there's quite a few of these
old machines still running, so it's in their interest to maintain
service.

I have a confirmed source of inch-thick steel plate if you need to make
a puller, but he thinks that's over-speccing the job and it would be
easier and cheaper to use a couple of 6mm plates at either end. Having
tried to bend a single 6mm plate I can see his point, TBH. Not only
that, but I have 6mm plate in stock and it wouldn't be the end of the
world to weld up a pair of 12mm plates with appropriate holes if you
need them.