OT FOAK how to get end of broken HT lead? (long)

My car's been getting hard to start, and sometimes failing entirely in
damp weather, so I decided to check over the HT leads and distributor.

Leads and dizzy off, quick wipe down, check for condensation in the
dizzy, no problem. Put insulating tape over some bits of the leads where
the insulation's chafed and is getting thin. Good stuff.

Then I go to put it all back... problem.

This is a 16V DOHC engine, so there's a camshaft along the front of the
engine, four plugs down the middle, then a camshaft along the back. Each
plug is at the bottom of a shaft about six inches deep and an inch
across. Each HT lead runs through a right-angled rubber thing, then down
a rigid plastic tube, with the connector that clips onto the plug on the
end.

Three leads go back in, easy. One just squodges. Comparing it with the
other leads, I find that the connecter that clips onto the plug has
broken off, and the end of the HT lead is dangling in the plastic tube.

So... more in hope than expectation, I bung it all together as best
it'll go, and take it for a test drive. It works! It misfires below
2500rpm, but it works. This is handy because I'm at SO's place, 70 miles
from home, and need to get home. So, I set off home, and arrive without
problems.

Next day, however, the luck runs out, and the car won't start.

So... any ideas on how to get that squodgy rubber connecter out? I'm
assuming the little metal bit inside is nicely clipped to the plug,
holding it in place.

My first thought was a big FOAD pair of long-nosed pliers. But I'm not
convinced that it'll work, as they'd have to be *very* long-nosed, and
even then I'm not sure it would be possible to get a strong enough grip
on the rubber bit.

Second thought was to take the cam cover off, hence exposing the plugs
and the offending broken-off connecter. Trouble is, the inlet manifold
runs over the top of the engine, so that would have to come off as well.
If it's gotta be done, it's gotta be done, but... <8(

Can the FOAK suggest any better ideas?

TIA

--
<8( Wizard
Suzuki GS550 "I like that. Nicely shite" - TOG
Golf GTi 16v
ANORAK#17b BOMB#19 BOTAFOT#138 BREast#5 COFF#24
COSOC#8 DFV#11 STG#1

 

Buy a new one, they aren't all that expensive. In fact, replace the
whole lot including the leads, jobs a good 'un.

--
Lesley
CBR600FW
SBS#11 (with oak-leaf cluster)
BOTAFOT#101A UKRMHRC#12
BONY#54P BOB#18
Real burds don't take hormones, they rage naturally

 

Eh? Lesley???

Er... I think there might be a whoosh here, or something. I'm not sure
if it's you or me being whooshed, though. Depends what you mean by "Buy
a new one".

If you mean "Buy a new car", then FOYRNB, you are Darsy AICM5
"Considerably Richer Than Yow" posts, etc etc.

If you mean "buy a new HT lead", then sure, that goes without saying,
but the problem is how to get the end of the old one out of the engine,
as it's at the bottom of a shaft six inches deep and one inch wide.

--
<8P Wizard
Suzuki GS550 "I like that. Nicely shite" - TOG
Golf GTi 16v
ANORAK#17b BOMB#19 BOTAFOT#138 BREast#5 COFF#24
COSOC#8 DFV#11 STG#1

 

Changing the leads would be the sensible option as to getting out of your
current predicament:

Remove the plug with a plug spanner and then remove the end in the
comfort of your well equipped workshop.

 

Turn the car upside down and shake it.

 

I tried that once with a CB250G5. My top tip is to remove the oil first.

 

eh?

 

Chomp it up with a sharpened screwdriver then suck the bits out with a
hoover? Or pour some petrol down the hole & flambé the fucker.

 

Length of dowelling rod with epoxy resin on the tip. Stuff it down hole and
contact rubber bit. Leave for an hour to harden, then pull the fucker out.

 

I think he might be harking back to the glory days of 1999.

 

even so, he appears to have got me confused with Sniper and Ace...

 

Of course not! And I'm deeply hurt that you put me in the same league

Well, although it is a tad hard to do, it can be done and would really
be your best option, as a botch fix for now won't last long and you
will have to replace them sooner or later, so you may as well do it
sooner. You could always take it to a mechanic and let them do the job
for you but naturally that costs more beer vouchers )

--
Lesley
CBR600FW
SBS#11 (with oak-leaf cluster)
BOTAFOT#101A UKRMHRC#12
BONY#54P BOB#18
Real burds don't take hormones, they rage naturally

 

Hmm, can't you leave the bit of lead in place and use a box spanner
(as I think sweller is suggesting) rather than a plug socket and
extension to get it off.

Or use a plug socket with a hex around the top and use the hex with a
box spanner rather than the 3/8" or 1/2" square drive

Or use a pair of locking forceps to get the metal bit off. I got a
nice pair (fnarr) from an autojumble once. Much slimmer than a pair of
long nose pliers.

None of this helps you if you have none of the above ... !

Cheers,

Paul.

 

The question is, how to do it. Fortunately, I had an idea while at work;
I remembered one can get tools with a claw at one end, which could fit
down the hole and grab the offending thingy. The estimable Midnight
Motor Co of Watford has such a tool in stock for a fiver. I'll be
visiting them later this evening.

"Get a man in"?

You are Cane AICM5-

Oops.

<Offers box of tissues again.>

--
<8P Wizard
Suzuki GS550 "I like that. Nicely shite" - TOG
Golf GTi 16v
ANORAK#17b BOMB#19 BOTAFOT#138 BREast#5 COFF#24
COSOC#8 DFV#11 STG#1

 

*Nice*

--
<8P Wizard
Suzuki GS550 "I like that. Nicely shite" - TOG
Golf GTi 16v
ANORAK#17b BOMB#19 BOTAFOT#138 BREast#5 COFF#24
COSOC#8 DFV#11 STG#1

 

On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 00:40:38 +0000, Wizard wrote:

Crochet hook.

 

Pay cheques?

Cool.

Ta.

--
Lesley
CBR600FW
SBS#11 (with oak-leaf cluster)
BOTAFOT#101A UKRMHRC#12
BONY#54P BOB#18
Real burds don't take hormones, they rage naturally