original BMW manuals?

I've been looking, but not finding a shop manual for the 1979 BMW R65.
Anyone have suggestions? Got Haynes. Can get Chilton. Want shop.

Thanks!

--
Spidergraham
Chaplain, ARSCC



"Comparing Scientology to a motorcycle gang is a gross, unpardonable
insult to bikers everywhere. Even at our worst, we are never as bad as
Scientology."
-ex-member, Thunderclouds motorcycle "club"

 

I work mostly from Haynes and Clymer. They both have some mistakes
and weak spots but by reading and comparing both, you can get a pretty
good idea of what you're doing.

The problems with my factory manual are as follows:

1) It assumes you've been to BMW school and are an ace mechanic
already.

2) It also assumes you've got a well equipped shop with a zillion
bucks worth of factory tools sitting on your immaculate
factory issue workbench.

3) Mine appears to have some missing sections. Sometimes it covers
a proceedure, sometimes the whole section is missing. (I got this
with the bike, so I don't know what the story is here).

Sometimes the factory manual is excellent. Somtimes I find Haynes
and Clymer more helpful. I know nothing at all about Chilton.

I know you can get a parts CD on eBay or from the airheads list.
I'd suspect you can probably find a shop manual on CD as well.

I find the parts CD more useful than the factory manual actually.

 

Thanks. Sometimes the Haynes confuses me, because it covers more than
one model, and often pictures something that isn't on my bike!

Oh, well. It would be nice if there was an 'Idiot's Guide to BMW Boxer
Twins Tuneup"

I only do it a couple of times a year, and I forget stuff.
Ah, well...onward and awkward!

--
--
Spidergraham
Chaplain, ARSCC



"Comparing Scientology to a motorcycle gang is a gross, unpardonable
insult to bikers everywhere. Even at our worst, we are never as bad as
Scientology."
-ex-member, Thunderclouds motorcycle "club"

 

Thanks for the references! I'll put 'em to good use!

--
--
Spidergraham
Chaplain, ARSCC



"Comparing Scientology to a motorcycle gang is a gross, unpardonable
insult to bikers everywhere. Even at our worst, we are never as bad as
Scientology."
-ex-member, Thunderclouds motorcycle "club"

 

You really ought to check out the airheads list and website.

I like Haynes, but my preferred method is to get three or
four different sources (Haynes, Clymer, Airheads tips
and factory manual) and flip through 'em all until I've
found a source I feel comfortable with.

This is really super important when it comes to torque
specs. Both Haynes and Clymer have been known to
be wrong so I usually check a torque value two places
before using it.

 

barbz wrote:
SNIP

That would be redundant.

--
PC Paul
89 PC800
77 R100RS

Trip pics at: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/paul1cart/my_photos

"To educate a man in mind and not in morals is to educate a menace to
society" - Theodore Roosevelt

 

A '79 R65, I think has a points ignition system and CV carbs.
If I'm right about this, a tuneup would consist of adjusting the
points and timing, replacing plugs as needed and maybe checking
and fiddling with the idle speed of each carb.

Feeler guages, timing light, some kind of tach (stock bike tach
would be fine), plug wrench, screwdriver, allen wrench to
pull the front cover, wrench to disconnect the battery negative.

Tighten all clamps and make sure all joints are airtight in intake
and exhaust systems. Bring engine to normal temperature.

Pull battery negative. Remove front cover. Mark position of points.
Check gap and condition of points and condenser; replace and adjust as
needed.

Check condition and gap of plugs; replace and adjust as needed.

Reattach battery negative. Start bike. Observe timing marks at idle and
check advance at 3000 RPM. Abjust timing as needed.

Check and adjust cable slack of choke and throttle cables.

Using well insulated tool, remove one plug wire from spark plug.
(Don't do this on an electronic ignition). Observe idle while bike
is running on one cylinder. (Should be about 900-1000 RPM).

Reattach plug wire, detach opposite plug wire, observe idle again.

If idle is off on one cylinder, check richness screws (should be
about 1/2 - 3/4 turn out, depending on model) and adjust idle
screws to match idle speed on each cylinder.

When idle is about right, detach battery negative and put plug wires
and front cover back. Reattach battery cable and test ride.

 

I"ve got an airhead boxer myself. Just bought a color wiring diagram
off the net. Have you been checking on eBay?

 

Color wiring?
All my wires are, uh, dirt colored!

--
--
Spidergraham
Chaplain, ARSCC



"Comparing Scientology to a motorcycle gang is a gross, unpardonable
insult to bikers everywhere. Even at our worst, we are never as bad as
Scientology."
-ex-member, Thunderclouds motorcycle "club"