One to watch- 350B

mb said...

You're right. Someone's tried to make it look original by rounding off
the bottom corners of the brackets, but it's missing the pressed out
hole that's behind the forks and they've left the bracket too long.

 

Oh, absolutely. Just that it does make power to those levels.

Erm, well, for a 100cc bike, it's definitely quick. They'll hit 75 on a
good day, which is 125 territory. Very tough and reliable, too.

Erm, I've had two or three, as commuter hacks, and enjoyed them all. The
wide gap between second and third is the only real fault with them. That
and the 6v electrics, which really aren't bright enough. Oh, and it'd be
nice to have had a front disc instead of a drum, although the brake
works OK.

One of the best bits is the fat seat and wide bars - for a small bike,
it fits big fat fuckers like me.

 

s/learned/google-enabled

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
\`\ | /`/ GSX-R1000K3
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2
`\|/`
`

 

ISTR a slightly belled curve rather than a very sharp peak, at least for
the ones used in acoustic treatment.

Guessing, if you built it for f(r) just outside the normal power band of
the motor (on the low side), it *might* have the effect of flattening
the curve somewhat, by increasing the power o/p below the 'natural'
peak.

Guessing again that the engineering back then would've been seriously
hit'n'miss though, given the limited computing power available. The
resonances of interconnected pipes are hellishly complicated: was
intending to make smallest daughter a flute so read up on it recently
(and gave up the idea fairly instantly).

Still sounds snake-oil-ish.

Regards,

Simonm.

 

Aha! That'll be the Helmholz resonator then...


Regards,

Simonm.

 

I've seen 'em advertised. Google?

 

Not snake oil. Quite ingenious really. Carbs work both ways, so any mixture
not taken in to the crank case stands a good chance of firing back through
the carb, picking up more fuel, then it passes back again, picking up yet
more fuel, leading to an over rich mixture and poor response especially at
lowish engine speeds.

By storing the ( spat back ) fuel/air in the bottle and releasing it as the
piston ascends, you get a better mixture, thus throttle response. It would
also allow for slightly wilder port timing.

IIRC, the disc valved Kawasaki KH 100 was better at low revs and the Yamaha
better at high. The Yamaha seemed more immediate on the throttle.

My memories are a bit hazy. The last time I rode either was many years ago.

 

That's more of a piston-ported thing, really. The whole advantage of
reed valves is that this can't happen.

Piston ported engines do, as you say, tend to stammer and four-stroke
a bit at low RPM.

 

on a CB100N (disgusting bike) I had once I converted the electrics to 8V
nominal by adding another 2V battery in series with the exiting 6V. This
gets you 60-odd watts from a 36W bulb... mind, it don't last long, about a
month on average. If you could find a way of having a 7V nominal battery
it'd be better.

the theory was that the alternator on the CB100N would only put out 76W
maximum, mind. But I expect that most alternators on small bikes are not a
lot more powerful.

If it's actually got a proper regulator, you'd have to rebuild that, I
guess. The CB didn't, it had a cute system that only used 1/3 of the
alternator coils when the headlamp was off, then cut in all 6 when you put
the headlamp on.

 

That would work.

 

It won't. There'll be a fizz-pop and a little wisp of smoke. I'm afraid
you're really stuck with the 6v system and its drawbacks.

One tip that is worth taking up is to brighten the indicators by
removing the lens and reflector, and putting Bacofoil in the casing,
behind the bulb housing, then just replacing bulb and reflector.

 

On Fri, 19 May 2006 07:29:39 +0100,

That takes me back,. haven't done that in years. ISTR I used those
little alloy cups that small cakes come in.

 

YMYA. on a Honda H100.

6V indicator systems suck mightily.

 

6v systems are OK but admittedly are affected more by corroded
connections and the resultant voltage drops than 12v. IVR and all that.

However, for retards that can't use google:
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybulbs.htm

 

"supply and demand"

 

I think you may have a slightly shaky grasp of market economics but never
mind.

 

That's handy.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a
Every post contains Nutri-Ceramide-R and Pre-Biotics
for your reading pleasure.
Folding@Home Team UKRM
http://vspx27.stanford.edu/cgi-bin/main.py?qtype=teampage&teamnum=47957

 

As the average halogen bulb costs about a tenner anyway, I don't think
that's bad at all.