on topic for once

on my 7R, the immobiliser is very difficult to disarm, sometimes
taking about 5 minutes of fiddling to get the thing to start. It's a
Meta 357 (I think). I've replaced the battery in the alarm remote fob,
so it's not that - it seems to be that since the bike was nicked and
thrown in a ditch, the receiver unit has lost a lot of sensitivity.

I also can't seem to get it to go into "service mode" when I do
finally get the bike going - can anyone else with this sort of alarm
tell me how to do it? I assumed it was "press the 'other' button when
the bike was switched on" method, like with my 'blade, but nothing
seems to happen. Again, this might be down to the receiver unit
problem.

Long term, I'm going to get the thing ripped out of the bike.

I'm doing a trackday at Cadwell this coming Friday, and don't want the
stress of going through this hassle 4-5 times in the day.

So, apart from a drain on the battery, what would be the downside to
just leaving the ignition on, but with the engine stopped using the
killswitch?

The only thing I could think of was putting a strain on the ignition
coil, but if the killswitch is engaged isn't power cut to the coil in
any case?

Any thoughts?

 

This is one of my "things", having grown up in the era of dynamos and
low-capacity-due-to-being-fucked batteries.

This was only really ever an issue with ignition systems employing
contact breaker points - if the engine stopped with the points closed,
then current would flow, energising the coil and cooking it. With
modern breakerless systems it (theoretically at least) won't be an
issue. Still not sure if I'd like to do it, though.

 

I have a M357 V2 so I'm not sure it's relevant but anyway...

Service mode on mine is the default (I discovered after reading the
manual) - the alarm itself has to be actually turned on to arm, rather
than automatically arming. Not sure if there is a way to permanently
disarm the immobiliser (manual certainly doesn't mention this as an
option).

Secondly, did you check the contacts in the key fob whilst changing the
battery? With my recent troubles in France, the issue was not the
battery but rather the contacts with the battery were not making
reliable contact. Fixing that fixed the problems I'd been having.

One other stupid question - do you have a spare key fob you can try to
check it's not just the fob playing up?

 

The FZR which is now, I believe, Bonwick's had a Meta alarm on it for about
2 weeks. It displayed the same characteristics and was a complete PITA so
it was removed FOC.

To put my Daytona into the closest possible, you turn it off and press and
hold the alarm button(it only has 1 button), It pings on and then, about 3
secs later, pings again to indicate that certain circuits are off. I've yet
to find a full service mode though.... If you have 2 buttons have you tried
pressing and holding the 'normal' on/off button when the ignition is on?
ISTR that on the R6 Datatool system the 'other' button is to disable the
motion sensor only.

Dave

 

I haven't, though I'm going to.

I can't find one, and I can't remember if there ever was one.

 

You can get instructions on the web site:

http://www.metasystem.co.uk/index.php/msy_eng_en/msyuk/motorcycle_area/operating_instructions

 

the battery's fine according to the Optimate.

This was on the back of my mind.

I know what you mean, hence the post.

Hell, what's the worst that can happen? It blows up and I have to do
every session on the RGV - hardly the end of the world.

 

thanks.

 

I have the same unit on the 748 and it does exactly the same.
It has stranded me a couple of times, once in town so I went and
bought two new batteries for the remote fob as I thought it was
that too. They cost me 6.95 each from the shoe repair shop as
they were the only place that had them.

Still not figured out what the problem is, so may well get it
taken off and replaced with something more reliable.

 

I guess so - it's not exactly doing anything. Do you, or anyone else,
know if there are any "pit areas" at Cadwell with powerpoints, like
there are at Snetterton? If this was the case I can always take a
charger too, just in case. I don't know, because the last time I did
Cadwell, we didn't use the pit area at all.

well, this is the answer I wanted, so I'll ignore the rest - thanks.

 

It's a right pain; the odd thing is that it was fine before it got
nicked.

I got some free from Petrolcan, which was a bonus.

I just think I'll get it taken off and not replaced with anything.

After all, it didn't actually stop someone nicking the thing last
year.

 

There aren't *any* pit facillities at Cadwell!

You may want to take a spare battery, and make sure it's fully
charged, if you have one? I've got a stack of batteries here if
Ken wants to come over and pick one or two up.

Otherwise take jump leads and start it from another bike or
car. Or park at the top of the paddock, on the right as you go in,
and bump start it when rolling down the hill to the collecting
area.

 

Oh, OK - I was misremembering the layout - it's been a while since
I've been there, and I've been to Snetterton about 3-4 times in the
meantime, so I've got the two mixed in my head.

Thanks, but probably haven't got the time to sort this out.

sounds more like my sort of plan.

 

yeah, see my reply to Ant.

 

He's ten mins away by car or bike; just phone him
and tell him to come and pick them up ;-)

 

a quick google suggests a 7R needs one of:

Westco 12V14L-B
Varta Motorcycle LF

the dimensions are:

Length [mm] 152
Width [mm] 88
Height [mm] 131

do you have anything like that?

 

Doesn't really matter - as long as it has terminals then you
can hook it up to the bike and strap it in place!

I have a load of YT12B-BS batteries which are:
150mm x 69.0mm x 130.0mm

So yes, it should fit without problems.

 

I'll ask Ken if he can collect one from you.

 

No probs. I had one on charge as a spare for the bike over
the weekend, so I know at least one is in good nick. Leave
it with him after you're done and either I'll pick it up or he
can drop it off.

 

Arrived at a Laverda OC track day a few years ago with the Nordie on
trailer but the key for SWMBOs CB250 (it was* very* dark when I got up
and the keys were amazingly similar).

Fortunately the early Nordies were CDI. Just pull off the correct
connection and away you go using the kill switch to turn off. Only
problem was starting. Bump starting an over-bored extra high compression
single was not easy. The only certain way without assistance from a fat
bastard to put enough weight on the back wheel to stop it locking (even
in 2nd) was to use a really steep hill. As it was a club circuit only
day I used the path/track that goes down the hill between the upper and
lower sections of the 'mountain' part of the course.

Saw off one or two Lavatories as well

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