Oil drain plug problem -- how to fix/

It looks like my '82 Honda FT500's oil drain plug cannot be tightened
much. When I try, it seems to give, possibly because the threads are
shot?

When I try to loosen and tighten it back again it doesn't *feel* like
threads are damaged but I simply can't tighten it completely because
it simply gives when I try and I don't want to try to overtighten it
either.

What seems to be the problem and what should I do? Maybe, if oil
doesn't leak leave it alone perhaps?

Thanks for any opinions.

 

Fit a helicoil of the right size. Not necessarily a cheap DIY
operation, as you have to pay for the tap as well as the insert. If you
can get the bike to someone with the gear who is willing to do the job
in-situ, or can get the sump off without removing the engine (at the obvious
extra cost of a sump gasket) to take it into a shop, it should be somewhat
cheaper.

Hmm, no, you don't want it to come loose and dump oil all over
your rear tyre. Sounds like the threads are stripped enough that the
bolt can "jump" a thread as you tighten it, but not so much that there
isn't a bit of metal preventing the bolt from being pulled out directly.
As the British so quaintly say, "It needs fixed."

--
Ivan Reid, Electronic & Computer Engineering, ___ CMS Collaboration,
Brunel University. Ivan.Reid@[brunel.ac.uk|cern.ch] Room 40-1-B12, CERN
GSX600F, RG250WD "You Porsche. Me pass!" DoD #484 JKLO#003, 005
WP7# 3000 LC Unit #2368 (tinlc) UKMC#00009 BOTAFOT#16 UKRMMA#7 (Hon)
KotPT -- "for stupidity above and beyond the call of duty".

 

They do make oversize plugs that are usually available at most NAPA stores
in the US or Canadian Tire if you are in Canuckville. They cut new threads
as you tighten them in.

 

Dounds like stripped threads.

You probably don't want to loose it while you're out on the road
so it might be worth fixing before this happens.

Helicoil and Timesert both make kits to fix this problem. The
trick is that you have to open the hole up to a larger diameter
and keep it exactly square with the flat surface that the plug
rests on.

Timesert actually makes a kit that's supposed to keep you lined
up when you drill and fit their insert. Not sure if Helicoil makes
a similar kit or not. Helicoil requires a smalled hole that Timesert,
so some people recommend using Helicoil, then using a Timesert
kit if the problem occurs a second time.

You can probably find these kits at a fasteners specialty shop
or a good auto parts store. An experienced dealership might
also be able to help you out.

Most important thing is to have your repair planned out careully
before you start. Figure out how you'll line up your drill and tap
and how you'll clean out the shavings afterwards.

 

That sounds like one of the worst Bodgit & Floggit products on the
planet.

It might actually work, of course, but it sounds appalling.

 

They also make OS plugs for cages that are self tapping and are intended to
reamain in place once tightened. The oil is drained through a smaller drain
prug set in the center of the OS drainplug. I don't know if they make them
for bikes or not, I've never needed one.

 

Big difference between a steel oil pan and a softer more expensive
hunk of cast aluminum. I'd probably go with a Helicoil or Timesert.

If it had a separate oil pan, I'd also scour eBay and the parts places
for a replacement. Don't think this one does.

 

Well, let me first thank all the posters for their suggestions. A
wonderful group of people to ask questions -- really.

Although I have worked with lathes and re-threaded damaged holes in my
life, I was also convinced that, without the proper tools, this would
be a job for a pro, so I removed the oil pan from the bike and took it
to a shop that specializes in motorcycle engines. Fortunately, I
already know its owner, having met him in a motorcycle repair course
in a community college recently.

It is better to be safe than sorry later on; so thanks to all again.

 

The best way. I did this once with a Suzuki GS550 sump. I also bought a
little Honda 125 with a stripped sump plug. That was tricky, as it had
also cracked the casing, and there was no separate sump pan - just the
two vertically split crankcase halves.

I took the whole engine to an alloy welder who built up a little plug of
weld around the drain hole and crack, and then machined a thread into it
for the plug. Cost me the equivalent of about 70 bucks.

 

They're designed to be used on auto engine sumps, where if you really
screw it up you can just replace the oil sump (drain pan). I would
never advise using one of these on motorcycle crankcases...

 

I've got the same problem on my SV1000S, I didn't bother to check the
torque wrench instructions and managed to overtighten the plug when
changing the oil. I forgot that it isn't a torque limiter and carried
on tightening after it clicked. 8-( I won't do it again!

My local dealer will charge me 35 GBP (about $70) to put in a Helicoil,
plus oil. The SV1000 doesn't have a removable sump. That includes
collection, they are only a few minutes away. Some SV1000 users have
used teflon tape on the threads as a temporary repair and find it lasts
until the next oil change. I might try that, and save the cost of the
oil. Most of the thread is OK, so it will probably work. Other people
have used epoxy or rubber rings, and they seem to last very well.

I rather stupidly refilled it with oil, to see how bad the leak was -
it does drip when the engine is hot so I will have to do something
about it. I have heard of people laying the bike on its side on
something soft so that they don't have to drain the oil, and put in a
helicoil themselves that way. It's much easier if one is working
horizontally than upwards.

Leon

 

The best way. I did this once with a Suzuki GS550 sump. I also bought a
little Honda 125 with a stripped sump plug. That was tricky, as it had
also cracked the casing, and there was no separate sump pan - just the
two vertically split crankcase halves.

I took the whole engine to an alloy welder who built up a little plug of
weld around the drain hole and crack, and then machined a thread into it
for the plug. Cost me the equivalent of about 70 bucks.[/QUOTE]

I believe we are lucky that there are people who are creative and
willing to take on tricky jobs. One shop down here that I talked to
told me right off the bat that they wouldn't touch it.

Have a nice day.

 

I used teflon tape too, but I saw a few drops of oil on the floor the
next day morning and realized it was merely a bandage. I don't like
bandages.

I didn't want to go that route because I don't have particularly good,
steady hands to hold the tap horizonal long enough. I'd pay $70 for
this job given its delicate nature.

 

Noticed this blurb on thread repair and common mistakes.
(I wouldn't hesitate to give work to Ted BTW.)

http://beemershop.com/mistakes.html#ThreadRepair

Yup.