Oh crap...

....the speedo has just packed up on the spangly new bike! Display all
works fine but only reads 0 mph.

Today I've brought a Haynes BOL and got completely confused so I'm
hoping someone on here maybe able to help.

First place I started looking was the speed sensor. This is fixed
into the rear of the crank case. The BOL says to disconnect it then
put a meter across the white wire on the sensor side. With the
ignition on test for a 5v 0v reading as you spin the rear wheel.
Unfortunately the sensor doesn't have a white wire. I tested it
against each of the wires and got nothing so this points to the
sensor. However, I'm concerned that they asked me to check a wire
that doesn't exist and also why would I need the ignition on to test a
sensor that I've disconnected from the loom?

The plug on the loom side does has a white wire and this reads just
under 5v constant.

Yamaha want £60 for a new sensor which is quite a bit cheaper than
Suzuki sensors but I'd rather know for sure that it needs one before
getting a replacement.

Other than a faulty set of clocks (please don't let that be the cause)
can anyone recommend anything else I should be looking at (apart from
another bike).

WTF did I buy a Yamaha!?

 

Daz wrote:

Fit a cycle speedo? Or just use the rev counter to judge your speed?

 

Well I could do one of those things but it's hardly ideal and since
I've only had the bike a few days I've no idea what x revs in y gear
equates to.

 

Daz presented the following explanation :

It depends upon the type of sensor, how you test it. It could be what
is known as an Hall Effect Switch, this is a semiconductor magnetic
switch which needs power to work... Or a simple magnetic reed switch.

The output wire of the Hall version will change in voltage as the
magnet passes by it, probably 0v, then 5v, then 0v, and so on (with the
ignition on) as you turn the wheel. This requires three wires +ve,
ground and output pulse.

The reed switch can be tested with a continuity tester across the two
wires, expect short, open, short, open and so on as you turn the wheel.

Turn the wheel slowly, because the pulses will be quite short and
difficult to spot.... Remember there will be several revolutions of the
gearbox output shaft, for each revolution of the rear wheel.

 

Ah, that'll be a problem then. You could work out the speed if you know
the ratios of all the whizzy bits that connected the wheel to the
engine, plus the diameter of the tyre. Seems like too much hard work though.

 

On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 20:48:29 GMT, Harry Bloomfield

I've a feeling it's the first which makes me wonder why the Haynes BOL
tells you to disconnect it then turn the ignition on /

 

[snip]

Mine have all worked fine and have been damn reliable TBH.

 

Mechanically my R6 was the most reliable bike I've ever owned. I just
didn't get on with it (at the time).

 

... but at unknown velocity, apparently.

Sort your sig out and it might all get better.

 

I don't know why but I assumed you'd bought a new R1. What age is it?

When I replaced the plastics on the Gixer I had intermittent problems
with the speedo not working. In the end it turned out to be the dodgy
electrics with the cable block under the left fairing panel to blame. A
bit of contact cleaner and making sure the two sides were really
*really* pressed together sorted it and the indicator problems out. At
least until I went over a big bump and it came loose again.

I pointed the finger at my clocks for a while but there was nothing
wrong with them. Have you seen the speedo working?

To get away from dodgy Suzuki electrics ? .