Now That's What I Call SOBoxer Problems 6

Discussion in 'Classic Motorbikes' started by Gyp, Jul 10, 2010.

  1. Gyp

    Gyp Guest

    As the Busa's in bits, the job for today was replacing the fork seals
    and the brake hoses on the R80. As I need the a bike to get to work, it
    was important that I got it all done and dusted today.

    All going swimmingly with me mentally drafting my "I love my Boxer"
    posting until I tried to take off the RHS fork lower and stripped the
    head of the retaining allen bolt. Clearly tightened by some gorilla last
    time it was off. Bugger.

    So went to take off the forks to give them some TLC with a drill, but I
    can't for the life of me find my 41mm ring spanner to release the fork
    from the top yoke, and not surprisingly none of the local shops have
    that size in stock.

    Decided to just remove the other side (the one that's leaking) rather
    than do the pair, but of course the forks are held to the brace using
    some wierd and wonderful bolt; one that I don't have a socket for.

    Bolted the brakes back together and bled them, but the forks are back
    together complete with leaky seal on one side and buggered bolt on the
    other. I really didn't like putting the bike back together without
    fixing it, but it's more important at the moment to have it together :-(

    Time to buy a spanner and plan another weekend in the garage :-(
     
    Gyp, Jul 10, 2010
    #1
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  2. Gyp

    Hog Guest

    Bad luck. Do you mean the axle clamp or the yoke? I'm assuming the former.

    I have a long snap-on spanner for that head nut. It cost a fucking fortune.
    Stupid waste of money *and* I chipped a tank with it. A nice 3/8 crow foot
    would be cheaper, neater and fit a torque wrench.
     
    Hog, Jul 11, 2010
    #2
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  3. Gyp

    Gyp Guest

    The bolt that's knackered is the one that goes up inside the bottom of
    the fork to hold the damper rod to the fork lower. I've acquired my
    father's huge adjustable King Dick to get the fork tops off.
    Good reminder to loosen and coppaslip. But not until I've got the Busa
    back on the road
     
    Gyp, Jul 12, 2010
    #3
  4. Gyp

    Hog Guest

    Oh *that* bolt. FFS you ham fisted oik.
    It's a No1 candidates for a rattle gun. Removal that is. It doesn't need
    much torque on assembly.

    It could be tricky to repair, a replacement part might be easier. Or a
    little weld metal/drilling/tapping

    FWIW I've been known to drill out the head of the allen screw as a matter of
    caution
     
    Hog, Jul 12, 2010
    #4
  5. Gyp

    Hog Guest

    Well yes but I have the impression he stripped the thread in the rod.
     
    Hog, Jul 12, 2010
    #5
  6. Gyp

    Gyp Guest

    No, just fucked the bolt
     
    Gyp, Jul 12, 2010
    #6
  7. Gyp

    Hog Guest

    Oh the allen screw socket. Yeah well easily sorted, once you get the fork
    off!

    I usually just drop the forks out together and leave all that fesking
    brace/mudguard stuff in place BTW. It's just wheel and callipers off and 4
    allen screws in the yokes.

    Andy could probably suggest some clever way of spot welding a rod into the
    socket so you don't even have to pop the fork top!
     
    Hog, Jul 13, 2010
    #7
  8. Gyp

    Gyp Guest

    Which I couldn't do as I didn't have the 41mm...

    4 allen screws? Do you have the Ultimate Source/San Jose (or whatever it
    is) pimpy top yoke?
    Prolly, but as it's recessed into the fork it might be tricky; I'm going
    to settle for the rattle gun or failing that the drill approach
     
    Gyp, Jul 13, 2010
    #8
  9. Gyp

    Hog Guest

    <Penny drops>

    Of course I do.
    I was thinking of chucking a wodge of current down said rod y'see.
    Just drill the head off. 5 minute job.
    ..
    ..
    ..
    ..
    ..
    ..
    ..
    Try not to drill right through the fork bottom
     
    Hog, Jul 13, 2010
    #9
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