Norvern mankeys[0] go fast(ish)

Linkage.

Well, I guess that's the whole assembly, really, including the rose
joints at each end and whatnot - don't know if the threaded rod has a
separate name.

 

Ah, yes, I see what you mean. They probably do.

I'd probably replace the original footpegs anyway - the rubber grips on
the OE ones are all very well when you're pootling around, but I'd
prefer something a bit more solid under my foot. Motrax do some for 25
quid a pair, which seems to be something of a bargain.

 

"actuating rod"

 

Ah, of course.

Smart arse.

 

<smug>

 

"... lynched by a rampaging mob ... who finally realized that the one
thing they really couldn't stand was a smart-ass."

 

I think I'm going to see that later. But I won't enjoy it.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Eddie

Things are a little pushed in the workshop ATM, but if you get stuck
give me a shout.

I mill the hangers out of 12mm(ish) ally plate (bought from my local
friendly scrappy). I then drill and tap them for the pegs and frame
mounting points. On the UKRM bike the levers are mounted on the pegs, so
it's pretty easy. Don't forget that the RH one will probably need a
place to mount the rear brake M/C. For simplicity keep the lever to M/C
spacing the same, so that the original push rod will work. If you can't
do that, you'll need to make a new rod as well <glares at Antonye>.

The (for want of a better word) "design" is a compromise between being
too strong (and risking frame damage in an off), and being too weak (and
risking bending when the lardy rider-types get 'gorilla' on them).

I got some levers cast at my local friendly foundry (which reminds me, I
should probably get some more made). These are then drilled / bored for
the pegs and actuating rods, and spacers are made for the gear lever.

The pegs are turned and knurled from ally bar, then drilled and tapped
for the mounting bolts.

Err... Yes. I knew that. The rose joints (which I don't make, BTW!)
screw into the holes. One LH and one RH thread.

Yeah, that ought to do it. You might have to turn it anti-clockwise
too...

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets
and Ducati Race Engineer.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
ZZR1100, Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"

 

No, I wouldn't want to impose for the sake of one of my idle whims - my
FiL knows his way around a workshop, and he owes me a few favours in
exchange for IT support services.

Right, I'll see if he can scrounge some of that.

1" up and 1" back sound about right? Or is it a case of trying it out to
see what happens?

Hmmm... probably help if I actually looked at the bike while I thought
about this, I guess.

Heh heh heh

Moi? Lardy? Gorilla? It's a fair cop, guv.

Coo, there's posh. I guess there's nothing wrong with using the existing
pegs and levers for my purposes, you just need a cheap and ready supply
of them for those unexpected off-road moments, yes?

I knew that really, it just slipped my mind. I'm sure I would have noticed.

Well, duh. Obviously. Or use an Australian one, 'cos it all goes the
other way down there anyway.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Eddie
<> typed

(Rearsets)

That seems to be the consensus.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets
and Ducati Race Engineer.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
ZZR1100, Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"

 

How about the R1's predecessor? Carbs don't ice up like on NInjas.

 

Eddie says...

You'll get a very nice C2 or E1 that sort of money. Prices for 9Rs
start at around 2200 for high milers, but tend to stay in the 2500 to
3000 bracket for average ones. There are very few below 2000 quid, and
I'd avoid any that were in that bracket unless their history is known
to you. Good C2s and E1s will fetch up to 3500. There doesn't seem to
be much of a difference in price between late C2s in good nick and
similar age/condition E1s.

Buy one, you won't regret it.

 

Bear says...

 

Colin Irvine says...

Another worthy choice, and cheaper than a similar age/condition 9R.

 

although c) the choice of discerning gentlemen.

 

Bear says...

Had no complaints about mine.

 

Colin Irvine says...

Agreed

 

Bear says...

I miss the Thunderace. It was a cracking bike, but I found something
newer and lower mileage for not a lot more money so I sold it. I'd
always wanted a 9R and really enjoyed the one I had, but then a newer,
lower mileage Gixer thou came along etc etc.

Onwards and upwards, as they say.

 

Don't take this personally, but: I've never really liked the look of them.

The fine products of KHI seem to have a certain something that appeals.

 

I was thinking about something like that earlier: when I used to drive a
tractor (oo-ar, oo-ar), things like plough blades were mounted to the
frame using one "normal" bolt, and one "sacrificial" bolt (or whatever
the technical term is), with a narrow section in the middle.

If the plough blade hit something relatively immovable (like a ****-off
great big rock), the sacrificial bolt snapped and the plough blade was
free to pivot out of the way with minimal damage.

Not sure that you could apply the same principle to anything on a bike,
though.

Are you implying that one of your co-riders might have had one too many
pies?