Norton Jubilee faults: factual please

I've not ridden a m'cycle in almost 40 years, but my last was a
Jubilee, and ever since I've heard every kind of criticism directed at
that model. I'd love to hear the specifics of what was wrong. I had
(and have) zero mechanical knowledge, but rode the thing in London for
two years until it burned itself out. I recall two garages where the
mechanic walked out and actually said "get that thing out of here" as I
paddled it off the road.

When I bought it, the rogue who took 40 pounds from me said it had to
run in the "emergency ignition" mode (which I guess overhated it?)
This was in 1967, but the thing had been a police bike in
Buckinghamshire for several years before he bought it.

Anyway, I loved the sound, and hated the weak brakes. It was also kind
of heavy for a 250, but a beautiful bike to look at.

Please tell me what the engineering problems were with the Jubilee. No
abuse or sarcasm please.

 

Start here:

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/nort03062500.html

Angle grinder.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique,

I rather think that's for us to decide, don't you?

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - There are few things in life more sinister than a
public toilet with the lid closed.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

I have a 350 Navigator, so I am not about to hurl mud at you

The Jubilee had 2 individual bores, rather than a common one like the
Navigator, so one of it's habits was to vibrate laterally and snap the
head stay. It had tiny brakes borrowed from another AMC model that we're
not up to much (Navigator has Road Holder forks and full side hubs). The
both of them "suffer" from 6v electrics that would make Joe Lucas "The
Price of Darkness" impressed.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Tim

Ooh, that brings up a question I've been meaning to ask.

Head stays.

How do you adjust them, then? The Oilfield's got one and when I dropped
the new lump in I looked at it and thought "That's interesting..." and
sort of tightened it up. A bit.

I expect there's something *much* more scientific I should have done.

Isn't there?

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - There are few things in life more sinister than a
public toilet with the lid closed.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

The Navigator and CB250K4 which I once had both have the stay as the
last item to tighten in the sequence. Other than that I can't remember
anything extra.

 

**** I'd like to thank the posters who replied to my original Jubilee
query. Now I feel safe enough to ask the truly embarrassing question:
the seller told me to keep the ignition switched to some kind of
"emergency" or "for starting only" position. 40 years on I cannot
remember, but I feel sure this was burning the plugs etc. What
ignition setting or component did/does the Jubilee have, that
corresponds to my description, and what damage was I doing. I know I
was uninformed and suckered when I bought it.....! ****

 

Firstly it stop you from forgetting to trim sigs when replying.

Secondly, from the Norton service manual;

"The emergency position is intended for starting when the battery is
discharged. This position is marked 'EMG' on the ignition switch. In
this position the two groups of alternator coils are connected in
parallel and if the lights switch is in the 'OFF' position the full
output of the alternator goes into the battery. This will raise the
voltage of a discharged battery to a level sufficient to start the
engine. In the EMG position the charge rate is high - the engine should
not be run in EMG for too long. The boost charge thus provided may be
used to restore a discharged battery. Switch over to IGN after ten
minutes."

 

Blimey.

reminds me of the CB100N - 6 coils on the alternator stator, 4 of which are
only connected if the headlight's turned on, and no voltage regulator.

Having discovered this, I modified mine by the addition of an extra 2V
cyclon cell to make the battery nominally 8V, and thereby got about 60W from
the 36W headlamp bulb; used to need a new bulb about once a month though.

 

Aye it's a handy feature. However I am very interested in going 12V
because the 6V kit hardly even illuminates the front wheel.

 

Ahh the most clueless poster on the group has been googling for the
OP...............Being able to do a simple search on google, and cut
and paste the results here, doesnt make you look anything less of a
twat you know!

k

 

That was the point about the 8V system. The maximum output of the honda
alternator was only 76W though, so that limited the overload of the bulb as
well - If I'd been able to get a higher wattage bulb (say about 42W) it'd
have lasted longer. Once put a 24W one in, and it only lasted a week.