non-clutching clutch

I have a 1970 Yamaha ht1 enduro that has 2760km on it and it needs some
work.
it has been sitting for at least 10 years in whitch it has aquired some
rust (fenders, rear coil springs, gas tankg, and other minor spots),
the battery has dissapeared, and the clutch has stoprd
clutching(disingaging?)
if anyone knows of a good way to get rid of the rust (i have already
donre the gass tank) and a cheep way of recroming the springs. it wold
be very usefull.
for the clutch i am wondering if prying the cork friction plates of the
other plates wold damage them.
any advice would be apreciated.

 

Can you see the edges of the steel plate/friction plate stack? If so, I
would recommend spraying a penetrating oil to see what that does. I
wouldn't go prying on the plates. If you can't get penetrating oil
sprayed onto the edges of the plates, maybe you could drain the oil out
of the transmission and refill it with kerosene (or paraffin, as the
Brits would call it) just up to the top of the sight glass if it has
one. Then kick the engine over many times with the spark plug removed
and let the kerosene do its work, and then repeat as necessary until
the clutch plates free themselves up...

 

i cant see the plates so ill try the kerosene. it wont disolve the cork
will it?

 

I suggested kerosene because it's oilier than gasoline and won't dry
out the rubber lip seal on the end of the crankshaft where the primary
gear is at. My buddy owned an AT-1MX, and I suppose that's what your
bike is, a 125cc enduro version. Yamaha built AT-1, CT-1, DT-1 and RT-1
enduro bikes around 1968 to 1970..

I don't know what was used to glue the friction material to the plates,
but, if you're worried that kerosene might hurt the plates, try #2
diesel fuel...

If the friction plates turnout to be no good after all these years, try
Barnett for new plates. I don't see anything listed for an HT-1, but
the plates from an AT-1 or CT-1 may fit it...