[QUOTE="krusty"] jlpridge wrote:- My suspicions are confirmed. I waited a couple of hours and went out and pulled the cover to inspect the pulse generator. Ther was some corrosion around where that bad pickup bolted in. I cleaned that area up good and tested the resistance and it was in specs. I figured problem solved but found out while riding that as soon as the bike heated up good the problem (running rough and missing) returned. Sure enough upon testing the resistance on the two pickups the same on was bad. Any thoughts you have on this are greatly appreciated.- Well, that explains mysterious intermittent rough running. The pulser coils wouldn't be grounded to the frame, both wires woul go to the ignition control module. As the rotor on the right hand end of the crankshaft passes each pulser coil, a short pulse goes to the ignition unit. It's only about 2 volts, but that's enough to trigger TWO spark plugs to fire. The engine fires TWO cylinders each time a pulser coil makes a spark, but only one of the two sparks is useful, the spark that's occuring while the exhaust valve is open is called a "waste" spark. The pairs of cylinders fired are 1 and 4, then 3 and 2, since the pistons are on opposite strokes 180 degrees apart. You should be able to tell which cylinders aren't firing by looking at the spark plugs. A cylinder that's not firing will have black sooty spark plugs. If one pulser coil is opening up when it gets hot, you can check t see if there's a problem in the connectors and wiring, you can even pull on wires to see if the insulation stretches out. That indicates a broken wire inside the insulation. If you can't find anything external, the open circuit is inside the pulser coil itself. If you can get the pulser coil problem fixed and the engine runs smoothly so it will rev up to 5000 to 7000 RPM you can do the open circuit voltage test again. The 1 volt that you got wasn't impressive. I suggest that when you get the engine to run on all four cylinders, remove the alternator cover so you can see the cooling fan. If it doesn't turn when the engine is running, then the alternator cannot generate AC current. The CB-650 Nighthawks had an excited field alternator with brushes. There was no cooling fan, you would spot that right away, and you'd be able to see the brushes. The voltage regulator sends battery voltage through the brushes into the rotor, making an electromagnetic field. When the rotor turns, that's what makes the voltage. A permanent magnet alternator, OTOH, has very strong permanent magnets that induce the electricity in the stator. But the rotor absolutely must *turn* when the engine is running to generate electricity![/QUOTE] Krusty, I am going to purchase a stator for this bike. I hav reached this decision because of the test results from the Clyme manual. There are five leads coming from the stator, 3 yellow, on white and one black. The resistance tests for the three yellow lead test within specs. However the test of the resistance between the whit and the black lead failed. The result in specs would be 4-6 ohms wherea mine measures 1 ohm. And of course it failed the open circuit test yo had me do. Do you have any other advice before I replace this stator. have found a company who rebuilds them for less than 0 includin shipping with a 1 year warranty. Jef