[QUOTE="Mark"] krusty kritter [email][/email] wrote:- Mark Olson wrote: - This is a voltage regulator with a voltage sense line (a Kelvin connection for my EE friends)- my GL1200A had this exact problem. After cleaning all the connectors involved, the voltage drop was still larger than I liked, so I simply wired the regulator's sense line directly (thru a fuse) to the battery positive. I was worried that the regulator might drain current through the sense line when the bike isn't running but if it does, it's down in the microamps. Now the battery voltage is forced exactly to what the regulator wants it to be. A bodge, I admit, but it worked fine for me.- It seems that all Honda is doing by using a remote sensing wire is saving about 1/100th of an amp current drain...- No- the worry about long-term current drain due to me moving th remote sense wire so that it isn't switched anymore, is a side issue. The remote sensing wire allows the regulator to monitor a particular node in the charging circuit and adjust the regulator's output so that the monitored node is forced to the desired voltage. In this case, the positive battery terminal _should_ have been the node of interest, but Honda in their infinite wisdom decided to force the +12V bus on the switched side of the ignition switch to a voltage appropriate for battery charging. This wouldn't be a problem in a brand new bike with nice clean an springy BeCu connectors, but on an old bike with dirty and tired connector there is significant voltage drop through the ignition switch and all th other connectors (and on a Gold Wing there are many) between the output o the regulator and the positive battery lead. So the switched side of the ignition switch is at a voltage appropriate for charging the battery, lets say ~14.5V, yet the battery itself is seeing somewhere betwee 0.5 and 1V _MORE_ than that, so the battery eventually gets cooked. You would actually be better off without the sense lead in this case, since the voltage drop on the big wires between the regulator outpu and the positive battery lead is far less than the voltage drop throug the less robust wiring routed through the ignition switch. [/QUOTE] Mark, My Clymer manual should be here tomorrow. Once I look at th section referring to the rectifier I will try your fix. In th meantime, one of my electrician friends at work asked if I had checke the coils yet. He said that it is possible if the resistance is to high on them they could be failing which would also impede the chargin capacity of the bike's charging system. Have you ever heard anythin like this before. It sure sound relevant due to how poorly the bik runs until it runs for a minute. It does not seem that it is an issu of warming up because even after it begins to run well it can go bac at any moment to running poorly