newtronic electronic ignition

Hello

Was wondering if anyone knew about these things, was thinking about
getting one for my old 500four, few questions

1. How good are they?
2. Do you still need coils?
3. anyone know how you can test coils?

 

Yes - if the bitch doesn't get pregnant, it's working.

 

bit late then... like testing brakes by seeing if you run into a wall!

 

Hmm good point. Well I /suppose/ you could just read the FAQ on their
website - http://www.newtronic.co.uk/pages/faq.html

 

well you could always read the labour party manifesto to see what they are
going to do....

call me a cynic but...

 

Ah but the difference is Newtronic are subject to the laws of the land.
If they make a false claim for their product, such as "yes you can use
the original coils" when in fact you can't, you can have their
testicles with a nice chianti.

 

they look the bomb from the website, and also found one review by drag
racer "the fang" which looks good! but was just seeing if anyone else had
any good/bad comments...

it looks like still need coils, dont know the condition of mine want to
test them... they spark... but I think they are old...

 

These used to be called Pirhana. Very basic but reliable circuit. you still
need coils and also need to keep the mechanical advance/retard unit but
remove the condensers (usually connected across the points). They come
supplied with an optical pickup assembly which either replaces or fits over
your old points cam. Ensure the routing of this wiring in particular is neat
so the wires don't get chopped by the rotating slotted disc. The main
switching modules can easily be repaired too.
The coils can be tested with a multimeter for primary/secondary winding
resistance which will be probably <10ohm (pri), and 50kohm (sec)
respectively. You can also check for operation of the coils by fitting a
good sparkplug in each of the twin output coil leads and closing/opening the
points with the ignition on.
I've still got a few spares for these from old Honda 550/750 fours if you
get stuck.

JB

 

I`ve heard good things about them, YMMV.

I`m not sure of the exact values involved, and this does not test for the
coil breaking down under load, but a basic "fitness" test works like this.
Well, it does for a 550/Four..

With a multimeter at hand, check for continuity on the primary side first.
RH side, yellow and black/white wires. LH side, blue and black/white wires.
It`s usually quite a low value. 3 or 4 Ohms seems about right if I remember
correctly. Ensure you calibrate the meter before testing as with you
reading low values, the meter being 2 or 3 ohms out will obviously lead you
to think the primary windings have gone Gallipoli.

Check the secondary windings for continuity between the HT leads. Obviously,
this is between leads connected to the same coil body.

Bear in mind that the 500 and 550/Four coils are prone to arcing out as it
is. Before you write off your coils, take them off, give them a good drying
out (some folk put em in a low-heat oven overnight, I left mine on the
radiator overnight) and seal them with some rubberized paint and silicone.


HTH

 

dont get me wrong, Newtronic seem cool and being British, thats even
cooler, and I have no reason to suspect they are making or would make
false claims. And the independant review I read gives a big THUMBS UP.

Just I have not got £90 to throw around, and if my problems can be cured
by coils which I might need anyway as well (due to them being defective
internal corrosion over 30 years or something) then the electronic
ignition will have to wait until the points need replacing...

stupid question about the coils still being needed really?

looks from my manual that a specialised unit is reqd. for coil testing.

but in regard to ratings for products I still think consumer feedback
(genuine and thats difficult to verify) can be helpful.

 

survival coils....

ta

 

I'll check that, ta.

 

http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm

Also

Remove both stator leads from the coil, and disconnect the spark plug
lead from the plug. Set the Ohmmeter to read values from 0 to 50
ohms. Connect the test leads of the meter to both flat terminals of
the ignition coil. You should get a reading between 20 and 30 ohms.
If the reading is lower (0 or near 0) or higher (50 ohms or more) the
electronic system is defective.



To test the secondary winding of the ignition coil, connect one test
lead to ground. Connect the other test lead to the wire in the spark
plug lead. You should get a reading between 7,000 and 9,000 ohms. If
so the secondary winding is in order.



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would like to point out[1] Points coils are different to electronic
coils and can course problems if mixed up. I have a box full of old
points coils here[2] I'll have a dig through the shed and see if I can
find them and see what's there.

[1] Pun not intended
[2] The type were the HT lead is changeable not glued in, although you
can still change them using sealing wax or very good plastic sealer.



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not sure I have a problem with coils yet (other than the glued in ht leads
are getting a bit short) did I read you right, that you can still replace
the HT leads on those coils? is it just glued on to a thread?

whats the difference between electronic and points coils?

does that mean that if you are going for a newtronic electronic system,
you might be better getting some coils from them as well?

 

Lander wrote

The pulse they have to deal with. The pulse from mechanical points is at
best uncertain in it's time of arrival, shape and duration, the coils
have to be built to accommodate this. 'lectric points on the other hand
can deliver what you want where you want, unlike certain courier
services and so the coils can be designed different and probably are.

 

what he says



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you can cut back the old silicon seal on most and then pull the old ht
lead out, in the end of the coil where it goes in is a large pin that
spikes the inner core of the ht lead, re fitting the lead then sealing
back up with sealing wax then silicon sealer can be done.



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I've got one on my Yamaha XS 400, which is on eBay again [1]:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4553210222&rd=1

Yes, the XS has its OE one still in use.


[1] Nicely slipped in, methinks.