new or used: a question of economy

Shit that's gotta be at least the third time I've mentioned that in
passing - you don't pay attention much do you ?

JL
(wouldn't stop me buying a Ducati now though - I think they're a wee bit
different build quality to the late 70's early 80's now)

 

<blink> There must be apples with oranges there ! Wet vs dry ? quick
browse...

SV650 (naked the lightest one) 165Kg dry according to Suzuki Oz
http://www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au/specifications.php?intBikeID=184

GS500 174Kg dry
http://www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au/specifications.php?intBikeID=230

GSXR600 165Kg dry
http://www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au/specifications.php?intBikeID=221

Seems like my memory was dodgy - and I'm VERY surprised that even a
naked twin is the same weight as the Supersports, that's a good 10Kg
lighter than I remembered the SV being. Am I wrong to suggest it must
have gone on a diet in the last year or 3 ?

JL

 

I'm not - just thinking ahead is all

 

I was bored...

I haven't decided if I'm going to make a serious bid yet though [1]


G-S

[1] And someone beat me to tree-fiddy anna kick inna nutz!

 

It wasn't a 500 parallel twin was it?


G-S

 

Unlike Biggus.

Moike

 

In aus.motorcycles on Mon, 27 Oct 2008 22:13:24 +1100

They haven't got horses, and they do have vibes. But they also have
brakes and handling.

Ask Guy - he rode a Nevada for Road Rider, and swapped his RF900 for a
Cali years ago on a trip up the New England. So he'd be a good
reference point for a sportbike rider...

Biggest hassle with some later model Calis is that they have the fat arse
problem of most modern cruisers. The EV is especially fat meaning
that shortarses can't ride it. As in "feet don't touch the ground"
sort of not riding. I rode a Stone and that was OK, so it's a matter
of pick your Cali.

The Nevada's about the same feet wise as the Breva with the low seat
option.

Zebee

 

In aus.motorcycles on Mon, 27 Oct 2008 23:06:36 +1000

Oh I give you that. The later models are not quite so squashed
though.

Then you haven't ridden the right foot shift bike often enough.

Besides, in a panic stop why the hell are you changing gears?

Zebee

 

In aus.motorcycles on Mon, 27 Oct 2008 22:14:18 +1100

Sydney's always more expensive.

Still more expensive for a major service than my Guzzi.

Major on that's about $450 in Sydney.

Zebee

 

In aus.motorcycles on Mon, 27 Oct 2008 14:18:31 GMT

I learned from a friend.... Pretty much he told me what to do and
why, and I did it.

And then I worked it out on my own with the occasional phone call.

Basic work really isn't hard, especially on modern bikes with
electronic ignition instead of points. Most of the time all you'll
need to do is change the oil frequently (all bikes profit from that)
and check the battery water levels, adjust the chain. If you want to
play with doing tappets then that's not too hard although I hated
doing the bloody Kawasaki because shim under bucket sucks!

Zebee

 

I'm panicking fer christsakes!!!

Often had trouble going from one to the other, had a GT750 Ducati in the
early 80s' but after a couple of close calls I sold her to buy a twin shock
Boxer, twin Brembo model. It's still in the shed and strangely I've come to
appreciate the look and style, both of which I detested regarding old BMs'
in my youth. Funny how the on board experience can sometimes change the way
you view a motorcycle.

Really there aren't too many bad bikes, just that a few are a lot better and
those few change dramatically with the riders.

Capt A. L.

 

Am I seeing things or is does the throttle cable cross the front guard
in front of the headlight?

Theo

 

I think the new Oilheads do run a MAF sensor, however I think the air
cleaner issue may have more to do with the type of roads/tracks that you
ride on, I have seen K & N filter equipped R1100S bores badly scored whilst
similar bikes running stock BMW filters undamages given similar useage
(including a lot of rally work).

I use my older airhead GS for the tough work whilst the 1200GSA is
restricted to light touring duties. the older airhad is much cheaper to
service and fix in the event of damage.

Boxer

 

BMW's have been running nikasil bores since 1981 so that can not be the
problem, from what I understand a K & N might filter well when newly
installed but its performance may degrade over time, I am not one to need
the extra HP that a K & N produces and all of my bikes run standard exhausts
too so I would never consider an aftermarket filter.

Boxer

 

Will suck up to (I mean, politely ask) some Canberran friends to see who
might have time and patience to help me out with a few basic maintenance
things. (oh BTH....... petal....... ;-) The things I think I most need to
know are:

changing oil
adjusting chain
replacing clutch lever [1]
replacing (or fixing) indicator/gear shifter [2]
replacing clutch cable

betty
[1] seeing as it has happened with monotonous regularity and at great
expense
[2] see [1], although Clem did a beaut job of the gear shifter for me last
time and saved me HEAPS, and Rockit snuck out and put a new indicator cover
on for me seeing as I hadn't actually snapped the whole bloody indicator off
(for a change!)

 

There are some rider training schools that teach "pull clutch in and
click down multiple gears until you get to 1st" as part of the emergency
stopping technique.

The idea being that if you pull up that fast to avoid the risk of an
object in front of you then the vehicles behind you might run up the
back of your bike and being in 1st gear gives you the chance to dodge
them. [1]


G-S

[1] I'm not saying I support this view but it is taught by some mobs.

 

At Stay Upright it was "Set-up and progressively squeeze front brake, pull
in clutch, engage rear brake, tap down gears": a quick Right Left (hands)
Right Left (feet) series of movements. I think the point is that if they can
get you to internalise a mechanical (robotic, even) series of movements like
that, it will reduce the risk of stuffing up in a real situation when
rational thought may desert you - super-important, specially for new riders
(and the nervous and unco - that Right-Left-Right-Left thing was so easy to
remember!)

betty

 

Nah, I'd have been the one more likely to wear a shirt that said "For
fuxxakes, I'm not your fuckin' bro..."

 

Oil was easy enough for me, needed an o-ring (rubber) a new filter and
some oil (manual tells you the required type and quantity). Get a
container (of larger than the size specified in the manual) under it,
run it for a minute to make it "warm" then pop the plug underneath the
sump. The reason I suggest a container larger is you will *invariably*
drop the bolt into the oil and have to feel around in it for the bolt.
You don't want a 'Eureka' moment in the garage with a container of old oil..

I found the chain pretty easy. Loosen the rear axle, mine has bolts to
tighten which pull the wheel away from the front, just make sure the
indicators are at the same point on both sides then tighten up. If you
don't have a torque wrench make sure your next trip's not very far (like
up and down the driveway) then check for movement..

I hope my clutch lever's the same as yours .. I need a new one :| I
assume the lever itself can be taken out, rather than replacing the
entire part (ie the bit that grips the bars..)

With my indicator/lights switch block I had to take the bugger apart and
solder half of the wires back in .. eww. Fiddly but not 'hard'.

Gear shifter .. err .. if you mean replacing the lever .. I just had a
hole drilled in mine and a bolt whacked through it. Works fine. Ugly but
hey I'm no oil painting either..

Clutch cable I can do. I assume your superbike's different to my el
cheapo. Fiddly and frustrating but not 'hard' again. The most important
thing to remember is there will be some drag if you're in neutral with
the ignition off. I was fooled by that and over-tightened it .. ended up
doing about 7K Rpm 10m from the house uphill (doing 20) as the clutch
was slipping horribly. Once I realised that, loosened it a little and
it's been fine ever since. Basically my cable goes to a block over the
top of the motor then attaches to a lever - this is all outside the
motor, I presume that is normal but given my limited expertise it may
not be

 

yeah, so?
Its a Ural.

Moike
(who was almost tempted in the 70s when they had a $350 350cc bike, and
a $650 650cc bike.)