Motorcycle Alarms

power, earth, indicators, starter kill, and if you are tricky, hook a
trigger line up to clutch and brake switches

 

1/ any professionally installed alarms will use soldered connections
2/ well you use a knife to open the loom and tape it all up afterwards
3/ sorry rob...its the most reliable connection available
4/ ?????????
5/ use test light, make neat joins
6/ wirecutters...nothing faster, works on all connections
7/ yes, use electronic solder
8/ no manufacturer solders the loom cos the wires usually go from connector
to connector or instrument, where a wire is joined in the middle of a loom
it is soldered and taped (usually when the wire feeds two devices such as
rear light loom)

scotchloks are used by people who cant solder or dont mind the warranty
returns
if you do use connectors you end up with big bundles of 'em and if not
crimped with a good tool wires pull out

what do salesbots in an auto shop know about wiring?
you'll just confuse em if you say you want to put a car alarm in a bike

 

Wiring diagram and full workshop manual will come first. So i know what to
cut and how to get to it.

Josh - ZX9R

Do it yourself, it's not that hard. Just make sure you have the wiring
diagram for your bike (and a multimeter would be
handy too!), and if you take your time and check everything thoroughly
before cutting anything, you should be fine. I
fitted an alarm to the CBR without any great dramas - had to redo it a
couple of times to get the wiring to my liking
(which is where taking a bit more time and checking a bit more thoroughly
would have helped!), but that was just a
cosmetic issue. Count on around 3 - 4 hours, and you're done! If I can do,
anyone can.

Damien
GPX250 (stolen) -> CBR600

 

Line to brakes and clutch....nice. Ill have to look into that too...thanks
RM

Josh - ZX9R

power, earth, indicators, starter kill, and if you are tricky, hook a
trigger line up to clutch and brake switches

 

The Viper alarm im looking at is for motorcycles, jetski's and other small
vehicles. It uses a tilt switch and shock sensor along with an engine
immobiliser...

Josh - ZX9R

Just out of interest -- how does the bike alarm work anyway ?
Is it just a motion sensor ?

 

Oooohhh....tough way to learn something.... What come of it...anyone cough
up money to fix it?

Josh - ZX9R

When the CB1100XX first came out, a regular SA rallygoer bought one of the
demo models which had been fitted with remote start.

At the Z-Owners Rally at at little one-pub town (whose name escapes me), he
had it parked on the centrestand outside the pub while he was over the road
enjoying the fire and refreshments. A crowd formed, as they weren't as
common as they are now, and when one bloke put his hand close to the bike to
point to something, the owner started it with the remote. Everyone near the
bike leapt back as if a grenade had just gone off in the middle of them.

One day a stray signal started it in an underground carpark in Adelaide.
When he arrived it was spewing fluids and smelling fairly scorched. He got
the remote-start disconnected.

Conehead

 

Remote start sounds like it would be a quickly worn off novelty anyway.

Josh - ZX9R

Got it in one! I've got the same alarm, and just cut that wire off at the
alarm - don't know why anyone in their right
mind would use it!

The motion sensor works quite well on the default setting - you can move the
bike maybe a foot or two at most before it
goes off, and that is being very careful to not bump or shake it. It also
works as an engine immobiliser when active.
The only problem I had with mine is that it will kill the battery within a
few days if used regularly and you do lots of
short rides, without giving it a chance to charge properly.

It won't work if you park in gear! And even so, it is still bloody useless -
before removing that wire, I jury rigged it
to see how well it worked, and it doesn't - if the bike doesn't start first
time, the ignition circuit is activated, but
the button wont work if you press it again - you have to insert the key,
turn the ignition on and then off to reset it,
and then try again. Much easier (and more sensible!) to do as I did and just
cut the wire off, and use the key and
starter button like everyone else!

Damien
GPX250 (stolen) -> CBR600

 

Thanks for all that info Zebee, I'll take a look at them. I'm not too bad
with the soldering iron, and was tending more towards solder and shrinkwrap.
However i will be exploring all avenues.

Josh - ZX9R

In aus.motorcycles on Thu, 11 Dec 2003 03:52:43 GMT

Autoshops these days only have those horrible cheap hardplastic
insulation connectors. Ugly, and difficult to crimp on well.

If you want single connectors, then go to Dick Smith and get their crimp
on bullets with the separate slide on plastic sleeves, a much better
deal.

If you want multi connectors then Repco and Supercheap have reasonable
ones, but for single wires, Tricky Dick or Radio Spares.

(I buy spade connectors from Radio Spares, have to buy them in lots of
100 and the sleeves separately, but they are still pretty cheap, you'll
get 100 spades and sleeves for aboutut $12 or so. Meaning one buy will
do you and your mates for years!)

Zebee

www.rswww.com.au Radio Spares partnumbers:
male spade: 433-129 cover 534-799
female spade: 433-133 cover 534-783
crimp tool (essential): 531-903

www.dse.com.au Dick Smith partnumbers
(H5006) Male bullet terminals - pack of 10
(H5007) Male bullet cover to suit H 5006 - pack of 10
(H5008) Female bullet terminals
(H5009) Female bullet covers to suit H 5008 - pack of 10

 

Actually its a Viper Motorcycle/JetSki/ATV Alarm...

Josh - ZX9R

1/ any professionally installed alarms will use soldered connections
2/ well you use a knife to open the loom and tape it all up afterwards
3/ sorry rob...its the most reliable connection available
4/ ?????????
5/ use test light, make neat joins
6/ wirecutters...nothing faster, works on all connections
7/ yes, use electronic solder
8/ no manufacturer solders the loom cos the wires usually go from connector
to connector or instrument, where a wire is joined in the middle of a loom
it is soldered and taped (usually when the wire feeds two devices such as
rear light loom)

scotchloks are used by people who cant solder or dont mind the warranty
returns
if you do use connectors you end up with big bundles of 'em and if not
crimped with a good tool wires pull out

what do salesbots in an auto shop know about wiring?
you'll just confuse em if you say you want to put a car alarm in a bike

 

Will keep the number handy incase i run into troubles. Thanks Charlie

Josh - ZX9R

Chris Rogers, "Sound Off Mobile Installations" (or something like that)
is a bike rider and quality electrical / audio bloke. Works from the
northside of brissy, dunno if he'd go to southport though... get him on
0407102839
No idea what he knows about bikes, but it's gotta be better than a non
rider. Worth asking anyway.

Charlie

 

"sharkey" wrote

Unfortunately most amateur solderers do an absolutely terrible job.
And they generally use the wrong tool. Some irons are for gutters,
some are for wires, some belong in the bin. For wires I use a 60W iron
with a 700ºF fine point tip. At work I used to use a 600º mini spade
tip but only on hard drive head wires and rod memory stack connectors.

No problem at all with a bit of practice and a $70 crimping tool. No
way you will get a good connection with a $2 tool.

Theo

 

Guys,
Use what you want, Use what you have always used. Whatever makes you
happy.
As an Electrical Tech, by trade, Soldered joints are way down on the
reliability scale, no matter what the carefull people like to say.
Although since heat shrink spaghetti came along, water leakage problems
should be less of a factor, on those dark, cold & rainy Melbourne night's,
under a street lamp, trying to suss out blown fuses, would it ?
Sorry boy's, just a old fart who would'nt know, would he now.

Rob.

 

so what is the correct way then old fart ??

 

oh **** no, dont get it done by a car audio guy

talk to a local apprentice workshop mechanic and offer to pay him to come
around to your house or whatever to do it.

 

The most reliable connections I've made have been with solid 30 gauge
wire wrapped on a 50 thou gold-plated square pin. But you don't get
many of those on motorcycles.

Theo

 

How about getting a decent news reader first so you can sort out that
attribution problem. Then we'll work on the top posting.

Nev..
'03 ZX12R
'02 CBR1100XX

 

A few years ago, I was having continual problem with the electricals
on the GS (hands up who HASN'T). I spent many hours pulling connectors
apart and cleaning and rejoining, all to no avail.

I eventually resorted to cutting the connectors and soldering and
shrink-wrapping. I can happily report that I've had no electrical
problems with the GS since.

---
Cheers

PeterC [aka MildThing]
'81 Suzuki GS450-s
'87 BMW K100RT

www.dmcsc.org.au

 

The Professional Solderer has a Pre-Planned Response ...

Yeah, probably. But these here hackers with $20 soldering irons,
they're unlikely to own a $70 crimping tool ...

-----sharks

 

That's an excellent euphemism for "until the bike would start, run,
and not drain the battery flat overnight!" ;-)

There's another one! ;-)


BTH

 

"Peter Cremasco" wrote

Puts hand up! Waves!

Never had a problem with the GS.

Theo
(It's a Suzuki, ain't it?)