MOT time - notching

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by cat, Nov 24, 2009.

  1. cat

    cat Guest

    How much notch is a 'notch'?

    I have a very slight hesitance for the bars to turn from dead ahead
    (can't feel anything whilst it's being ridden) . You can feel it as the
    bars pass the center point.

    Is there anything I can do to mediate this in the short term?

    I really only need about 4 more months out of this bike, and I'll be sad
    if either it has to stop being used NOW, or cost four billion pounds to
    continue to ride.
     
    cat, Nov 24, 2009
    #1
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  2. cat

    'Hog Guest

    If you loosen the head races, unwinding the preload adjuster 5-15
    degrees, it might just mask it but not introduce enough play at the
    forklegs to be noticed.

    Otherwise it is a fail.
     
    'Hog, Nov 24, 2009
    #2
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  3. cat

    Krusty Guest

    Will the tax run out during those 4 months? If not, don't worry about
    it.
     
    Krusty, Nov 24, 2009
    #3
  4. cat

    cat Guest

    Aww, bye bye bike.
     
    cat, Nov 24, 2009
    #4
  5. cat

    cat Guest

    I can't ride a bike with no MOT, my brain would explode from guilt.
    My insurance would be somewhat dead, too.

    I wish I had space to break it, but I don't.. bugger.
    Cheap er5 for bits anyone?
     
    cat, Nov 24, 2009
    #5
  6. cat

    Krusty Guest

    No it wouldn't.
     
    Krusty, Nov 24, 2009
    #6
  7. Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, cat
    Head bearings on an ER5 really isn't that big a job.
     
    Wicked Uncle Nigel, Nov 24, 2009
    #7
  8. cat

    Simon Wilson Guest

    How cheap is cheap - that's all that's wrong - headraces?
     
    Simon Wilson, Nov 24, 2009
    #8
  9. cat

    cat Guest

    I don't have tools or space :/ I could give it to a garage to mend, but
    I'm not sure I want a few hundred quid vanishing into the thing when I
    really want something new and I'm already saving for such. The tube
    can't be THAT bad over winter.
     
    cat, Nov 24, 2009
    #9
  10. cat

    'Hog Guest

    ITYWF there are people in easy distance with tools and garages happy to
    help for, at most, a crate of ale
     
    'Hog, Nov 24, 2009
    #10
  11. cat

    ginge Guest

    You might be able to do it where you park the bike. Stick a plastic
    milk crate under the sump, ratchet strap through the crate and over
    the seat, then you should be able to take the front wheel and forks
    out where the bike stands without it falling over.

    A large adjustable spanner, cheap hammer, block of wood, freezer to
    stick the new bearings in and shrink them, blowlamp to expand the head
    tube,something to use as a drift to knock the old ones out, and job's
    a good 'un.

    A saturday afternoon and under £100 in kit I'd guess.
     
    ginge, Nov 24, 2009
    #11
  12. cat

    cat Guest

    You're probably right, and I was VERY proud when I rebuilt my rear
    brake, but the forecast for Saturday is 'pissing it down' There's a lot
    of dials, bars and forks to get out of the way before I can even try
    setting fire to the head tube.

    Thinking on though, I might be able to blag a slot in a friend's garage,
    depending how tight for space they are, Which would protect me from the
    councils 'NO MOT' cleanup crews till I was prepared to try a fix.
     
    cat, Nov 24, 2009
    #12
  13. cat

    ginge Guest

    Leave them all the clocks and stuff attached, and just remove the top
    yoke. Then (other than perhaps the brake pipe and speedo cable) you
    should be able to move the lot out of the way backwards onto the top
    of the tank, and just tape it up out of the way.

    Sure, it's probably not a haynes manual approach, but it'll save time.
     
    ginge, Nov 24, 2009
    #13
  14. cat

    TOG@Toil Guest

    Decent pattern bearings are about £30-35. That and a tub of grease and
    some tools are all you need, though as Ginge says, some means of
    cooling and heating things up does make it easier.

    You don't really need to physically remove all the clocks and
    switchgear and cables.They can all just sort of flop around on their
    wires, as long as you've got a blanket or something to prevent them
    damaging the tank's paintwork.

    I hate doing head races, actually.
     
    TOG@Toil, Nov 24, 2009
    #14
  15. Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Kevin Stone
    <holds head in hands>

    Oh Christ... Not again...
     
    Wicked Uncle Nigel, Nov 24, 2009
    #15
  16. cat

    'Hog Guest

    "you can check out but you can never leave"
     
    'Hog, Nov 24, 2009
    #16
  17. cat

    Krusty Guest

    I know... Don't worry, I'm not going to play.
     
    Krusty, Nov 24, 2009
    #17
  18. cat

    Pip Luscher Guest

    Having just done GuzziTwo's the other weekend, I cannot help but
    agree. Hateful things.

    Getting the outer races out was easy, ditto the top inner race. the
    bottom inner race was a pig. After trying to notch it and use a cold
    chisel to crack it, I ended up just beating screwdrivers in
    alternately from each side to lift it clear of the lock-stops, then
    gripping it in a vice and wiggling and twisting it off.

    By sheer fortune I found that I had a long-abandoned half-finished
    model cylinder barrel that made a perfect tool for pressing the new
    one in.
     
    Pip Luscher, Nov 24, 2009
    #18
  19. cat

    'Hog Guest

    Why do people go through this. Dremel. 5 mins. done.
     
    'Hog, Nov 24, 2009
    #19
  20. cat

    Pip Luscher Guest

    Couldn't find my sodding mini drill. Still don't know where it is. TBF
    it's only a light-duty device and might not have been up to the job
    anyway. I did try a small air grinder but that took bloody ages and
    didn't really notch the race properly - just ground a hollow onto it.
     
    Pip Luscher, Nov 24, 2009
    #20
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