Is it usual to pay for MOT retests at the same garage the original one was done?
Depends how long the gap is. My usual places do free retests if it's within a week or so. -- Krusty www.MuddyStuff.co.uk Off-Road Classifieds '02 MV Senna '03 Tiger 955i '96 Tiger '79 Fantic Hiro 250
Was taken back within 5 days, but retest was not done for possibly another 16 days, because of wrong parts ordered. I paid for the MOT when I first collected the bike and now I've just seen it charged for again on the invoice I paid for yesterday (I realy should read what I am paying for at the time). It only failed on a binding rear brake, which they fixed, they also did a 40k service, total cost £378.
Not really. The exemption still only applies to certain items: "...If the vehicle is brought back to the same Testing Station by the end of the next working day for one or more of the following items only, a partial re-examination is again required and this re-examination is also free: Bonnet, boot lid, brake pedal anti-slip, direction indicators, doors, dropsides, fuel filler cap, hazard warning, horn, lamps, loading door, mirrors, rear reflectors, registration plates, seatbelts (but not anchorages), seats, sharp edges or projections, steering wheel, tailboard, tailgate, vehicle identification number (VIN), windscreen and glass, windscreen wipers/washers, wheels* and tyres*..." So if it's for welding, suspension, brakes, emissions, exhausts then it will be re-charged. Same as it always was.
An MOT failure because of a brake fault requires a full re-test of EVERYTHING and it's not free. You weren't ripped off or double charged, you were simply charged for the work done. (The work being another MOT test) -- Beav VN 750 Zed 1000 OMF# 19
You need to read the article, particularly: "If a vehicle does not qualify for a partial re-examination as listed above, a full re-examination is required and a full fee may be charged." So, if it fails on a brake fault and you take it off the premises a full fee may be charged. This hasn't changed from the previous arrangements.
Yes, left it on, no problem. They where impressed and asked where I got it from. I'll be taking the nose off this weekend and fitting the main beam HID and a nautilus horn well as . On the subject of lights, I see Osram have the night breaker 90% brighter halogens (road legal) as an answer to the Philips X-Treme 80% brighter and on ebay they are about half the price.
Good to know, thanks. Just fitted one H4 on the ST1100 last night. Very impressed I am. I tried some fancy Philips bulbs in a cage once. I didn't notice any appreciable increase in the light, and they both blew within a couple of months ISTR.
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Drew.H I've said this before, but the fitting of overly-bright (and usually badly-aimed) headlights is purely fucking antisocial and dangerous.
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Hog The case for the prosecution rests, m'lud.
TBF a lot of people do flash the Porker at night (feed lines R Us), next service I shall get them angled down a little over stock, but you just cannot knock being on the right side of them. My Bandit with the twin Cibies and Osram Silverstars is almost as good, people flash that as well. Jumping on the ST4S which has good lights by bike standards is shit by comparison and 10mph slower at night.
