Maintenence items on '75 Honda CB360T

I could use a little help with some items on my '75 CB360. I have a
Clymer's manual that recommends greasing the front bearings at 6K but it
doesn't provide any insight as to the proper dissembly/assembly of the axle.
I also have a few questions that the manual doesn't address well in regards
to the oil changes. The manual specifies that you have to remove the side
cover, which I assume means replacing the gasket, but it doesn't sound
reasonable that you would have to replace a $20 gasket every time you clean
the centrifical "filter". Also, the manual doesn't address whether or not
there are any other gaskets that are likely to need replacing as a result of
cleaning the oil screen. Any other tips and tricks relating to maintaining
this bike would be appreciated as well.

tia

 

I don't remember the exact configuration of a 360T, but front axle
removal should be pretty obvious. Loosen any pinch bolts remove axle
nut, and pull the axle. Make sure you have some form of support for
the front of the bike, besides the front wheel, trust me on this.
Customarily, I would say forget about doing this, but considering the
bikes age, it might be a good idea. You could have them replaced with
sealed bearings and forget this chore for the rest of your natural
life. The bearing will have a 4 digit code on it's outer race that
will tell any bearing supply house what you need, just specify "double
sealed". In any case it's a standard, off the shelf, bearing. Any M/C
shop can replace them for a nominal fee. It shouldn't cost much, it's
not much of a job, but there are some things about it not immediately
obvious to the beginner.

IIRC on 450s and 350s the oil "filter" was sealed with an "O" ring,
under a seperate cover, that could be reused, it's possible that the
360 is like that as well. I wouldn't count on a possibly 29 year old
"O" ring being usable. If it does require a gasket you can save
yourself some grief and grease the new gasket, making it re-usable and
easier to get off next time. If, upon side cover removal, you find
yourself with a petrified gasket (very likely), buy a new, good
quality wood chisel (a craftsman will do, the sharper, the better),
wide enough to the widest area of gasket seating surface and gently
work it between the gasket and the case surface (ground angle up, flat
side down). If you do it right the old gasket will peel right off. If
you rush and gouge up the case surface, it'll never stop leaking.
Patience.

Definitely, do not forgo cleaning the oil slinger because when it gets
full, sludge will just circulate in your engine, killing it. Many
350s, 360s and 450s died a premature death because of this.

The oil systems are marginal on Hondas of this vintage, but they'll
run for a long time if you change oil often and keep the oil slinger
clean. If you follow Honda's service interval recommendations, you'll
have many trouble free miles.

Do you have a impact screwdriver? Get one, you'll thank me. The
phillips screws Honda used in those days were made of a substance that
looked like steel but had few of it's qualities.

It doesn't sound as though you have much, if any, motorcycle
maintenance experience. Don't start this job on a day in which you
have anything else planned.

Bill Smith

 

Thanks for the tips. I have a fair amount of experiece with cars of this
vintage, but the bikes I've worked on are of newer vintage (sealed axle
bearings and spin-on or cartridge filters). I have enough experience to
know that the time to look at the manual and ask for advice is before
everything is torn apart. I assumed the gasket would die upon removal, but
I didn't want to get it apart and find out I needed a gasket or o-ring that
was 2-weeks away.. Based on the near-pristine condditon of the screws, I
doubt it's been done before, especially after what you've said about the
metal they used.

The wheel comes off and the axle comes apart relatively easily, but the last
nut holding the bearings is slotted and requires a "c"-spanner or crown
socket to remove (which I don't have) and once off I don't know how how much
tapping I'll have to do to get the bearings loose. Based on my patience
level, I'd probably be better off removing the wheel and having a shop
either regrease them or as you suggested, replace them with sealed-for-life.

Thanks again

 

If you've successfully worked on cars, the work you have in mind will
be a piece of cake.

Bill Smith