lithium vs. moly grease, u joints, BMW R100GS

I've seen conflicting opinions on the appropriate U joint
grease for shaftys. Currently I'm using Mobil1 synthetic,
which I gather is a lithium based NLGI (?) rating 2 grease.

Recently I noticed one rebuilder reccomending moly based.

Anybody have any opinions on this ?

 

Been a long time since I rode and maintained a Beemer, but I'd
be inclined to use a moly grease. Its load-bearing capcity is greater
than lithium grease. That's why it's specified for use in ball
joints, universal joints, etc.

 

Moly is sold as car wheel bearing grease in the UK

HTH.

 

I use Honda Moly 60 for splines, and this generally seems
to be accepted as a good spline lubricant.

What I'm actually worrying about is a grease gun type
lube for an aftermarket driveshaft with zerk fittings.

This is the place I've been using Mobil1 synthetic grease
and where Bruno, legendary driveshaft rebuilder,
seems to be recommending a moly based grease.

 

Not really an opinion on the subject, but a true statement of little value.

The best grease to use is one that meets better than the minimum specs
of the bearing and is the most readily available.

Clay

 

Believe it or not, I found an article on EP grease on Wikipedia the
other day. Lithium grease is based on a lithium soap and petroleum,
where 'regular' grease is a calcium based soap and petroleum. There are
other types of grease too, but those seem to be the usual ones used
here.

'Moly', or molybdenum di-sulfide is a 'dry lubricant' additive, not
really a kind of grease. When metal to metal contact happens due to
high loads, the moly lubricates and takes the wear - at least up to a
point. Graphite is sometimes also used,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_(lubricant)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

Also IIRC, moly was widely used during WWII in Allied aircraft engines.
If the oil supply was lost it gave more time for the engine to run
before it totally siezed.

Glad to hear you used a moly grease, it's the right stuff.

Mark

 

I would go for the moly grease, but graphite poses a special problem.
It can actually *cause* wear, if the oil that it is suspended in
departs the area
you're trying to lubricate.

 

Sorry, meant to also say that moly is preferred, but it got lost in the
edits.

If a grease says EP on it, but not moly, I *suspect* that it's got
graphite in it. For the relatively minor cost difference, why not use
the best, especially if that's what's called for.

Mark

 

Back in the late 1970's, there was a *black* motor oil called "Arco
Graphite".

Owners found out the hard way what happens to engine parts when coated
with graphite without an oil to keep it moving around.

My problem with Arco Graphite came when the crankcase breather
system got plugged up and the graphite bearing oil vapors came out the
dipstick tube.

It was aimed at the backside of the alternator wire harness plug where
I couldn't see it, and it shorted out the field circuit so the battery
was always dead...

I replaced two voltage regulators and the alternator before I figured
out that
the Arco Graphite was causing the problem...

 

I had a car with cool stainless braided hoses. One of the hose came
loose from the holder and slid up against the alternator fan causing a
leak. I realized when the car burnt to the ground that gasoline was
causing the problem. Nasty stuff!

Apparently the plugged breather was the culprit?

Clay

 

oh really...gee you hear all sorts of BS from old krusty every day. I
must have been imagining it when I used to use spray on graphite
lubricants for load bearing sliding parts. Yep straight graphite isn't
a lubricant...you lying sack of slime.

 

oh really...gee you hear all sorts of BS from old krusty every day. I
must have been imagining it when I used to use spray on graphite
lubricants for load bearing sliding parts. Yep straight graphite isn't
a lubricant...you lying sack of slime.

 

Problem is, what is the purity of the graphite?

I could show you where a vein of graphite is sandwiched between layers
of
sedimentary rocks in Little Tujunga canyon...

Graphite is naturally found in combination with much harder minerals,
such as quartz and silica, and it's very hard to separate the grit
from the graphite.

The very soft graphite actually "marks" the grit. But there are
processes for
refining graphite.

Lubricating a lock with low-grit graphite isn't going to hurt it, but
running an
engine with low-grit graphite after the carrier oil is gone will grind
metal away.

 

Fact is LOCKS have that written on them for a completely different
reason. If oil in an open environment didn't hold dirt, AND didn't get
"thick" in cold weather it would say 7IO here.

Ask a locksmith.

Graphite can be used as a lubricant, but is NOT a GOOD lubricant. Hell
water can be, and is used a lubricant in some applications, but I
wouldn't use it in an engine. or my wheel bearings.

Clay

 

Found a tube of RedLine CV 2 synthetic moly grease
that I plan on using.

 

HONDA MOLY PASTE!

 

Dood stuff. Doesn't fit into a grease gun.

 

If it's grease it can be packed into a grease gun. How to you think it
got into grease guns before the grease cartrdiges became available?
Grease fairies?
p.s. loaded more grease guns manually than most people have with
cartridges.

 

I wouldn't be real optimistic about good results
trying to squeeze moly paste through a zerk fitting.
Great stuff for splines. Doesn't seem real appropriate
for needle bearings.

 

Oh, so now it's not just 'graphite' that causes problems, bit 'a
particular type of graphite'.

Right.