KZ 550 Advice Needed

OK, I'm bent over and I know I'm asking for it, but I'm a motorcycle
mechanic newbie:

I need to remove the fuel tank and seat from my 82 Kawasaki KZ550. I
have located an "L" pin from under the right front corner of the seat
that had a cotter pin in it. I extracted the pin.

Does this seat somehow fasten down and then swing up? My repair manual
doesn't say.

Once the seat is off then there is a metal tab that becomes exposed,
right?

Is there such a thing as an online owner's manual for this thing?

Thanks in advance.

Shaky Jake

 

Um, from memory, what you've removed is the seat hinge. You don't need
to remove it. There'll be a seat lock and/or catch on the opposite side
to the hinge. Pop that, and the seat swings open.

Oh, and there are usually two of those hinge/cotter pin things.

As for a manual - don't be a cheapskate. Buy one.

 

Oh yeah, so he does. Blush.

Indeed. Well, I've given the answer above, anyway.

 

Thanks for the help, got the seat to open up, thanks to you onliners.

Old story, simple once you see how it works.

Now I can find the fuel leak(s) and repair the frozen petcock handle.
Thats a "tap" for
you limeys. : ^ )

I was also looking at a set of 4 into 1 pipes that Dennis Kirk makes.
They certainly appear to have less restriction than the stock pipes and
mufflers.

If I installed the new exhaust then what would be the procedure for
rejetting the carbs?

Just wondering........

Jake

 

Thanks for the help, got the seat to open up, thanks to you onliners.

Old story, simple once you see how it works.

Now I can find the fuel leak(s) and repair the frozen petcock handle.
Thats a "tap" for
you limeys. : ^ )

I was also looking at a set of 4 into 1 pipes that Dennis Kirk makes.
They certainly appear to have less restriction than the stock pipes and
mufflers.

If I installed the new exhaust then what would be the procedure for
rejetting the carbs?

Just wondering........

Jake

 

Some fuel taps are just naturally stiff. The thing with the Z is it uses
a vacuum tap - there's a pipe goes from the carbs to the tap, and the
carb vacuum sucks open a diaphragm which lets the fuel flow.

Engine stops, no vacuum, diaphragm closes, fuel stops flowing, Very easy
and neat and efficient.

But obviously the tap spends a lot of time in the one position,
especially if you never run it to reserve and switch it to the reserve
setting. So it tends to seize in position.

A fuel tap strip and clean is easy. But be careful handling the
diaphragm - very easy to tear, and will leave you with an unwanted
pregnancy.

You won't notice much of a difference with performance pipes on their
own. Far better to get a set that works with the stock carb settings.

 

________________________________

You gave him the gospel, Mark, in a very succinct form.
I hope that he heeds it.
(and that his pipes aren't rusted through.)


Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
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