Kawasaki 750 GTstarting problems

Hi All.

I have recently acquired a 750GT P1 with Mikuni carbs, the poor machine has
sat in someone's garage for many years, but has a full service history is
very nice with only 20,000 miles on the clock.The problem is it sat with
unleaded fuel in the float chambers resulting in a sticky mess that has been
a pig to remove, they are now thoroughly clean thanks to copious amounts of
carb cleaner and a complete strip down, however it does not like starting.
if you put a hand over the intakes it will eventually start and runs quite
nicely, when warm it will idle and rev without issue.

The diaphragms are Ok and the jets are clean appear undamaged, does anyone
have any ideas,observations previous experiance of this issue?

/d

 

Sounds like a choke issue.... but I'm sure you've checked that.

There's a tiny little cam on the choke linkage on the carb bank. This
actually lifts the slides a fraction when you apply the choke, which is
one reason why they rev their nuts off on full choke. I'd check that
this is still A-OK.

It's on the left-hand side of the carb bank, IIRC.

 

<snip.

Many thanks for the comprehensive replies - I will be in the workshop
Saturday morning to try your suggestions.......

/d

 

After further inspection:

The small brass jets in the float chambers seem to be blocked, as they are
very fine they cannot be drilled (!) and picking with a fine wire is not
working. They appear to be pressed in, can they be drilled out and replaced
as individual units, or alternatively will I have to buy new chambers? Do
any other chambers fit? it may be worth looking at ebay

Dont you just hate unleaded fuel?

/d

 

They do? Electronic ones? News to me.....

 

I have a 1973 suzuki g/t 550 triple ,,
I want to put solid-state ignition on it ,,
the points float too much at high rpm's ,
does any one know how much $ $ ? ?



thanks for any help ,

norm

 

Try Boyer Bransden in the UK

Do a google search. Something around 60 UK pounds, IIRC.

 

You mean the triple-spark ignition? (And it was the TR750.)

Did they remember to include a ballast resistor?

 

You might look for a Pertronics (or Per-Lux) points replacement.
I'm not sure the company is still in business, their market base
must be rather small by now. I've had one of their points eliminators
in a '72 International Scout for close to fifteen years. Finding
something that adapts to a two-stroke triple might be a little harder.

bob

 

I believe a lot of car racers are still using them.

 

The capacitor does more than simply reduce the voltage at the points.
When the points are closed, the capacitor is shorted to ground, and
a field builds up in the core of the ignition coil. When the points
open, this field breaks down, charging the cap. But at this point,
you have an LC circuit that will "ring" for a few cycles, degrading
by the effect of the resistance of the primary winding and any energy
released at the plug. If you put a diode across the winding, you will
lose a lot of your spark energy.

Kaybearjr's suggestion is probably best. Dyna (et al) makes a unit
that does just this. They go for about $50 US and drive a single coil.
I'm considering one of these for my bike, since I could wire it out
on the side of the road, should it become necessary.

 

I do believe that the bike won't run very well at all with the capacitor
removed, but since it's an easy experiment, by all means give it a shot
and report back.

It certainly would be instructive to hook the o-scope up to the primary
winding. I have a cheap scope here that might eventually end up in the
garage for just such purposes.