Katana Electrical problem

Last fall my parents brought my Katana from home to Lincoln,
where I go to school. Dad started it and drove it onto the truck just
fine. When it got here, it got rained on a bit, not while driving
down the highway. The water has never hurt it before. (I know this
isn't good, but I'm sure I've learned my lesson now) We got it off of
the truck and it won't start. No solenoid click or dimmed headlights
or anything. I tried charging the battery and using the charger on
the jumpstart mode with no change. It acts like the kill switch is
on, so I tried checking the fail-safes. I took the switch housing
apart and cleaned the starter and kill switch contacts as best I could
with alcohol. Then I used a voltmeter across the terminals to verify
there was a voltage difference in the open switch (i.e. there is power
to these switches) and that the closed switch had no voltage
difference (the switch works). So I eliminated the starter and kill
switches. The neutral light comes on, so I'm fairly certain that
sensor works, and if it didn't, it should start with the kickstand up
and the clutch in, (it won't). It should also start kickstand down in
neutral. So, it isn't either of these sensors, unless they are both
bad, right? So I think I eliminated them as the problem by logic.
So, now what can i do? I think schematics and tracing wires for good
connections is next (I checked the fuses over the battery, are there
more?). Where can I get schematics of the bike? Would a clymers
manual or something like that be any help? I can get an Electrical
engineer friend of mine to help me read them, but I don't really know
where to find them. Does anyone have the schematics for this bike?
(2000 suzuki Katana gsx750f) Any help or suggestions are welcome.
I'm at the end of what I can think of as far as solutions. The only
advice I got so far was to smack the solenoid with a mallet incase it
was stuck. I'm not sure about that. Thanks in advance.
-Tim

 

You need to narrow things down a bit to trace your problem. Make sure it's
in neutral and cross out the two big connections on the starter solinoid.
This will eliminate the start circuit wiring. If the bike doesn't turn,
either the battery's flat or the starter is faulty. If the bike turns and
starts then there is a fault in starter circuit only. If bike turns but
doesn't start there is a fault in the ignition switch circuit.

John

 

So far as I know, Suzuki has never gone crazy with sidestand safety
interlock switches and the sidestand switch can usually be completely
disconnected because it just lights a sidestand down warning light. At
least that's how my last two Suzukis have worked.

The neutral switch also just lights a light on my GS-1100 and the
early model GSXR.

But the clutch switch is a different story. The starter solenoid won't
work if the clutch switch doesn't make good contact. I was stuck in a
park for about an hour, removing the two screws that held the clutch
switch onto its housing. I found some stranded wire and jumpered the
clutch switch, started the motorcycle and rode home.

When i got home, I cut the wires off the clutch switch and soldered
them together permanently.

I don't need no steenking clutch switch, I am in control of my
motorcycle!

Look on this site to see if your Kan O Tuna is listed.

http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=420640

I have a Clymer's manual for one bike and a Haynes manual for the
other, but I find the schematic in the back of the owner's manual is
easier to read, even though I need a magnifying glass.

 

The tie downs going to the back of the motorcycle wouldn't cause this
problem, but it's possible that the tie downs on the handlebars pulled
the clutch interlock switch wiring loose.

 

When I tie down the bike, I tie it to the lower forks, just over the
front fender. It isn't an inverted fork, so I'm not rubbing seals and
the strap just rests on the metal fender bracket. So, pinched wires
is eliminated. I think it was tied down the same way the last time
too. I'll keep that in mind though.
Tim

 

Will it hurt anything to do this? It seems that it is just a hot wire
job. Key on I assume?
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that out.

 

Even if you don't think there is any problem with the wiring going to
the clutch switch or kill switch, disconnect the plugs and jumper
across the wire harness connectors and turn on the key and push the
starter button to see what happens.

It's a good idea to know where the fuse box is at, in case you blow a
fuse.

 

No. That's exactly what the solinoid does when you press the start button. A
copper tab is pushed up and joins the two main contacts inside the solinoid.
You're doing the same thing outside.

John

 

I was a Suzuki mechanic for quite a few years. At least 4 out of 5
times your type of problem would be caused by a defective clutch
safety switch. On older bikes I have bypassed these before they go
bad, just to prevent me from getting stranded. Another thing to look
at is a worn/sloppy pivot hole on the side stand. This would keep the
sidestand from engaging the switch in the up position.
If you are tracing it the problem and need to isolate it. I always
worked back from the solenoid. After shorting across the 2 high
current posts I would then move on to the second test of getting
power to the solenoid yellow/green trigger wire and see if that would
do the trick.

 

Sorry for kinda hijacking this thread a lil, I've got a 1995 katana 600 gsxf. Would've started my own thread but it seems that guests can't do that. Bike was running great just yesterday, she's got this strange problem that to my best guess is electrical. Anytime you lean the bike toward the left it'll start but stand her back up and she quits on me. I tried throwing it into first gear after managing to get her to stay on while standing it straight up and as soon as I left off the clutch, she dies again. Really don't get this one.