Jag Bearing Saga - Endfloat?

The ongoing saga of the Jag bearing [1]

As I posted recently I had it apart and I find a completely dry bearing -
not the slightest whiff of grease! See [2]

To make my description easier I've extracted the exploded diagram from
the parts book:
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/docs/jag38s_rear_suspension.pdf

My problem is the hub (part 29) is slightly damaged and is now slightly
shorter than before so setting the endfloat is a bit tricky.

The largest available shim (part 35, which I have) is 0.151" (3.84mm)
which gives an end float of 12 thou - I need a 0.160" (4.05mm) shim to
get an endfloat of 4 thou (range is 2 to 6 thou). That is, shall we say,
in production.

However, in the interim I need to use the car with the mashed parts
replaced but the original hub (see [2]) and excessive endfloat. So what
are the short and long term effects of running with an endfloat of 12
thou rather than 2-6?


[1] Oh dear - Squeaky.


[2] Dry
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47192463@N03/4368853204/in/set-72157623462142046/

 

You'll just **** it up even further to be honest.

How much is a new hub?

--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

I haven't found anywhere selling one yet - not that I've looked properly
- I've got to check if the hub is the same on an XJ6.

 

The shims are there to keep the balls and races from having too much of
an off-vertical slouch when cornering. I'd think it would be OK with a
12thou end float, at least for a while. Problem is, each thou of end
float leads to a magnified effect on the races as the tyre/wheel
stresses them. How long it can stand that, I don't know.
As far as I can see, the shim is rotating with the shaft and bearing
inner, so it's a bit awkward. All I can say is assemble it and see what
the wheel rock is (top of wheel, rock it in /out ). If it's more than a
Harley, don't use it. If it's indiscernible from the other side, try it
out. Depending on the car as a whole, you might feel the back end trying
to wander, but probably not.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, sweller

Sorry, I didn't realise you were using this as a daily driver. I'll do
them tonight.

 

Couldn't you knock up a temporary shim from brass sheet?


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Cheers for that.

 

I have managed to get a full hub and bearing housing assembly with good
bearings and the necessary shims for £25.

Who'd have thought the local car breakers would have parts for 45 year
old cars on the shelf...

 

The shims are hardened - I'm not sure brass ones would last.

I've managed to get a full hub assembly cheaply so I'm quite happy.

 

You aint fit it yet

--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

There is that.

 

They definitely wouldn't, but they could well have reduced the damage that
would've been caused by excessive end float in the shor term. Moot now
though.

As well you should be.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

It's perfectly straightforward to knock out shims from silver steel and then
apply the ol' oxy torch and a water or oil bath. Obviously not required now.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, 'Hog

Just out of interest I started dicking about with something similar last
night. They warp something lovely...

 

Depends how thin they are I suppose. I was remembering the sort of thickness
that an (emergency) valve shim might be. It could be clamped flat during
treatment. Would being a little crinkly even present a problem in Sweller's
application.

Did you grind it to get the thickness right? I can't remember what
machinery you have in t'garage.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, 'Hog

I don't have a surface grinder. And I keep telling myself I don't really
need one. I don't. I don't...

 

I really don't know how any competent Workshop can survive without a Surface
Grinder.

and so compact/cheap.......
www.rondean.co.uk/engineering/photos/eagle-surface-grinder.htm

there are even pikey options
http://tinyurl.com/benchmount

 

If only I could pick up a compressor at that price :-(

 

And of course, the oxy/acet torch bottles and the stanless steel need to be
on hand.

However, a piece of brass sheet is available from any decent hardware store
for a couple of quid.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

If you could pick one up at that price, it'd be too light to be useful.
They're normally quite heavy.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19