I've just fitted the Power Commander

Along with a DNA air filter to me XT.

I've been running round with the pipes for a while so know how they feel
now and put the PC and AF in together. It seems to have smoothed out
that jerkiness and acceleration is a little more lively but when all's
said and done, I don't know if the package was worth spending 800 quid
on!

Maybe I should get it properly tuned on a dyno, then I'll know it's
going to give the best it's got.

Piss.

 

Yes - this is the only way you'll get the best from it,
otherwise it's a worthless box of electronics.

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, antonye belched forth and ejected the following:

I got a quote from Banjax who said they'll do a run and make a custom
map for 120 quid. That sounds a bit steep to me but I've come this far..

 

Around this way they're charging upwards of 150 quid. Then I think it's 30
or 40 per run after the 1st 2. They run it straight up and see what it's
doing, then draw the map, then run it again. If you want any more run-ups
after that then you pay again per run.

Well, that's how it was 2 years ago when I had my PC set up.

--
Greybeard

FLHRCI -01 UK 95 cu-in Stg 2. (The King) (Gone)
FLHTCUI -07 UK 96 cu-in (Coming soon) [1 day to go!]
Trumpet Trophy 1200 -96, (The Barge) for rainy days (Probably also going?)

ukrm@foxtails[dot]co[dot]uk

 

No maybe about it - without it the current spend has been worthless.

Give Road and Track Dyno in Aylesbury a bell, they're supposed to be
quite good chaps.


--
Dnc

B1200 - +30bhp ~|~ ZZR1100 - faster when upright
V2300 - flat cap and rug ~|~ A6 2.5TDi V6 Quattro Sport

MIB#26 two#54(soiled) UKRMMA#26 BOTAFOT#153 X-FOT#003

 

it'd have been cheaper to just have bought a decently powered motard
in the first place.

 

It's 25 quid a run at Gibsons in Harold Wood, but obviously that
doesn't include the pissing about with the map itself.

To be honest there's no black art to it as you look at the graph
and identify any dips in power, then adjust the fuelling (+ or - as
a percentage) on a laptop hooked up to the PC. Save the map,
run the dyno again and then repeat.

Usually it'll take a few runs to get it spot on but any dyno
operator who has worked with a PC setup before should be
able to get you roughly there within three runs I would have
said. From there it depends how much more you want to
get out of the map.

Maybe you need to call a few more dyno operators for
a comparison price?

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, antonye belched forth and ejected the following:

Sounds simple enough.

Right, so I'd assume that sorting the dips will make things a lot
smoother. How much more can I get out of the map? I mean if the operator
has got it nice and smooth, then what can be gained from "getting more"
from it? What *can* be got from it?

OK, so a dyno operator can tell me all this but I'm asking you so I've
got a vague idea of what I need to be asking the DO or else he may just
give me the "standard tune", iyswim.

Yes, I think I'll do that although the economics of petrol and time have
to factored in. I don't mind travelling 20 miles or so but after that
would make it easier to go to the East End.

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, darsy belched forth and ejected the following:

You're missing the point, which, since you'll ask, is about tweaking,
fettling and getting the most *I* can get out of it.

Still, it's a valid point, even if you do only ride about 100 miles a
year.

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, DoetNietComputeren belched forth and ejected the
following:

Ho-kay.

 

All a dyno operator can do is set up the fuelling so the fuel/air mix is
optimal. If you chucke more fuel in there, you need to be able to get
more air in to match or you're just going to run rich (which, after all,
is precisely what you're trying to avoid by setting it up on the dyno).

If you want more power, you need more fuel. If you need more fuel, you
need more air. If you need more air, you need to pressurise it, either
by supercharging, turbocharging or some kind of velocity-based forced
induction (eg. "ram air"). None of which is going to be achieved with a
power commander and a couple of hours on a dyno.

A less restrictive exhaust will have a similar effect, to some extent,
by allowing more gas to flow (and hence the need to adjust the map to
provide more fuel). Which is where you are at the moment. But don't
expect miracles.

 

ogden wrote:

Or big valves, high compression pistons, a gas-flowed head and lumpy cams.

 

None of which is going to be achieved with a power commander and a
couple of hours on a dyno.

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, ogden belched forth and ejected the following:

"Work in progress"

 

While this is true, there are also other factors to take into account.

Bikes are usually setup to run rich on a "worst case" basis, which
means that it will do the bike less damage is the bike runs rich than
if it runs lean. This is why swapping over to a free-flow exhaust is
usually the best gain, because you're getting back to the optimal
air/fuel ratio.

Adding in a free-flow filter into the equation and you're back to
running lean, so you need more fuel. With carb'ed bikes you can
just change the jet size to get more fuel into the engine, and bring
it back in line again. Obviously you can't do this with injection,
which is where the PC comes into play.

On our bike map, there was a huge hole around 6,000 rpm where
the power dropped off and then suddenly picked up. This turned
out to be an artificial limit built into the fuelling map to get the
bike through the noise restriction. Messing with the map managed
to get rid of this hole completely, and overlaying it with a standard
map there was a 10% power gain - quite an achievement for
just fiddling with the fuel and one you'd certainly notice once
out riding.

How much you can get out of the bike with just a free-flow zorts,
filter and a PC can vary from bike to bike, but at least you'll
know that your bike is running right and it should smooth out
any lumps, bumps and snatchyness from the throttle when
out riding.

 

Had what done?
--
Dnc

B1200 - +30bhp ~|~ ZZR1100 - faster when upright
V2300 - flat cap and rug ~|~ A6 2.5TDi V6 Quattro Sport

MIB#26 two#54(soiled) UKRMMA#26 BOTAFOT#153 X-FOT#003

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, DoetNietComputeren belched forth and ejected the
following:

A map to suit his bike, I suspect.

I tried your chaps in Aylesbury but they were in "the dyno room" so I
guess they've all gone home.

Will try again tomorrow. The Bajax bloke wasn't the same as I'd spoken
to the other day and I must say I didn't like his attitude at all.

Nice to see some things haven't changed since my despatching days.

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, Nick belched forth and ejected the following:

Thanks, I'll look into that.

Mine spends most of the time between 0% and 100%

Mine feels slightly better with the maps supplied for my configuration
as standard but I'd like it tweaked a bit more - Maybe have one done for
hot days and one for the middle of winter, too...

Just as well you ride like a gurl then

 

Bear in mind they're not a Dynojet approved tuning centre (unlike
Banjax). In fact according to the Dynojet website, they can't even do
FI re-mapping.


--
Krusty
www.MuddyStuff.co.uk
Off-Road Classifieds

'02 MV Senna '03 Tiger 955i '96 Tiger '79 Fantic Hiro 250

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, Krusty belched forth and ejected the following:

Can't or not (officially) allowed to?

Where did you get the info? Despite knowing Banjax are approved, they're
not listed here!
http://www.dynojet.co.uk/tuningcentres.php?type=3