it's been ages...

you say "true colour", I say "tru color" - let's call the whole thing
beige.

 

You're getting old. You really ought to be in off-white Arran
cardigans with leather buttons and elbow patches, rather than that
gold lame waistcoat.

 

I had an Arran jumper when I was 18 - I've always been stylish.

I've never quite seen the point of cardigans, mind.

 

If you ever find the answer to this one, please post it here, in a new
thread, in CAPS.

There's a ZZR11 of my acquantance that displays exactly these symptoms
and resists all attempts at diagnosis, including riding the damn thing
with the fuel filler open to check that sufficient air gets in the
tank.

 

In

My knowledge of bikes is somewhat less than zero, but I've had a few cars
that have done exactly this.

One was a shagged old Cavalier SRi with a rubber fuel pipe that'd close over
when it got warm - the pipe had a bend in which when the engine got to temp
the hose would lose strength and close over at the bend. When it cooled down
the pipe would return to its normal shape and open up again. Took a long
time to diagnose that one.

One was a Mk2 Granada 2.8i with a dodgy ignition module. Would run sweetly
then just stop. 5 minutes later it'd start as if nothing had happened. If
you cranked it over the spark was there but not 100%, if you turned the
ignition key on / off / on with a HT lead a few mm from a good earthing
point the spark created by doing that was immense.


--
Pete M - Using the Scouse Side of the Force -
Golf GTi Mk2 2.0 8v
Wood and Pickett Range Rover V8 Turbo
Golf GTi Mk1 (For Sale)
OMF#9

Currently listening to The White Stripes

 

In

Indeed, nothing more irritating than intermittant faults. Especially the
ones that happen every few miles, confuse you, then go away before you can
diagnose 'em properly.


--
Pete M - Using the Scouse Side of the Force -
Golf GTi Mk2 2.0 8v
Wood and Pickett Range Rover V8 Turbo
Golf GTi Mk1 (For Sale)
OMF#9

Currently listening to The White Stripes

 

ave you gone mockney?

 

Bad connection somewhere in the LT electrics, or bad solder
joint/component in the electronic ignition box. Only way is exhaustive
searching and substitution.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

Teach a man to fish and he and his pikey mates will have the
river cleaned out in a day.

 

Nah, it's Latin: ad astra, "to the stars".

 

Since it's heat related I strongly suspect an open circuit in the
ignition pickup coil (pulsing coil), next up, although less likely,
given the timeframe given, it could possibly be the "IC Igniter",
which if I'm not mistaken is mounted on the rear inner mudguard.

Personally I would plumb in a Fluke DVOM with frequency measuring
capability into the pulsing coil circuit and verify that when the
ignition cuts out there is a loss of signal to the IC Igniter.
You could even gaffa tape it to the tank and see it happen right
as the engine cuts out.

 

Nah, it's a chicken-topped pizza in Pizza Express.

 

Using a sonic screwdriver, right?

 

In this zinc-plated, vacuum tube culture?

 

The assumption is, probably correctly, that it is heat related and this
makes it a bugger to localise. A heat gun[1] and a can of freezer are
your friends for sorting this one out.


[1] I have a tool[2] which may help in this, it is a small iron-on-a-
stick made for localised heating of heat shrink plastics, designed with
the Aeromodeller in mind but probably useful in other areas. Teflon
coated and everything it is and it has a knob on it that you can
twiddle.


[2] Just like the first one pictured here:-

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/heatgun.htm

 

Worse than that are the ones that plague you until you give in and take it
to a "proper" mechanic (main dealerships being the worst), at which point
the car/bike/JCB/whatever runs like new. But only long enough to get you
home after the humiliation.

 

In the case of the Astra it'd be 'ad scrappa', surely?

--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

Teach a man to fish and he and his pikey mates will have the
river cleaned out in a day.

 

The ECU error codes *should* indicate this sort of thing: no need to
tape anything to anything and the codes will keep flashing after the
bike's rolled to a halt, so no need to peer at a meter while riding a
dead bike. It's just a matter of finding out how to display them.

 

Pip secured a place in history by writing:

Indeed. It's the colour of the bike I'm riding. Any other oneness or,
indeed, trueness, is an irrelevance.

Yellow rocks, and you all look a bit Ginger B on your 'colourful' /
colourless machines. Yellow is to motorcycles as Black is to Village
People, frankly.

 

Only to reverse the polarity of the neutron flow.

 

I wasn't aware the ZZR1100 had an ECU.