Took a day off today, to get the Wing back together. The new belts went on easily enough, but the tensioner pulleys were a bit of a chore, to be honest. Very difficult to line up the bolts with the holes, against the tension of the belts, and in between the various hoses and cables in the way. Still, they're on now. All the "up" marks line up, too - even after turning the engine over a couple of times by hand. So, onto the clutch. Despite having new: plates, spring, slave cylinder, lifter rod, master cylinder internals and fluid it was still slipping as bad as ever. Diagnosis then pointed at the lifter plate - this is the plate against which the lifter rod presses to separate the plates, and it's held to the pressure plate by four bolts. When I took it apart two years back, one of the bolts was suspiciously easy to undo, and on retightening it offered very little resistance to my 10mm ratchet spanner. That'll be a stripped thread, then. Presumably done when it had the clutch replaced while Pip and I visited the Manchester Museum of Technology. Either that, or it's always been duff. It certainly wasn't me, yerroner. Anyway, I reckoned it was this plate, with it's failing fitting, that was being stressed off the perpendicular, that caused the clutch to not centre correctly in use. You never know. So, a new pressure plate, with intact threads, was acquired, for a King's ransom, and I set to with renewed hope. First thing that has to come off is the alternator. Platy, look away now. This is easy - three shiny 12mm headed bolts. Of course, it needs its electrical connections undoing first. So, in with a 10mm spanner, and I'm almost blinded by a big spark and a bang. As the lights in my eyes begin to fade, I can vaguely discern a big white sticker on the frame by the alternator. "Important. Disconnect battery before attempting to remove alternator connections." Oops. With the battery disconnected, the alternator connections came apart without drama. I then set about the three bolts holding the alternator to the rear of the motor. The first two undid easily enough, but the third seemed a little stiff. Then it didn't, all at once. Happy day - it had sheared. Flush with the rear of the threaded hole in which it had been inserted. All suggestions as to how to remove it gratefully received. No, I can't get that piece on the bench to drill it, as it's the lhs of the crankcase. It's got Plus Gas on it at the moment. Once again, the clutch cover came off without disturbing the gasket. Quite odd. I can't find my blue Hylomar anywhere, so it's off to Halfords in the he morning. The thread on the lifter plate was worse than I remembered, and when the bolt was removed, it still had its little plug of JB Weld around the thread. I'd put it on the bolt in the same manner that one might put an elastoplast on a knife wound - you never know, it might do some good. The clutch pack was clamped in the vice, circlip removed, all the plates swapped to the new pressure plate, and the spring refitted. All ready to go back in tomorrow. To cap it all, I noticed the rear tyre is down to its wear bars, so that's more expense, unless I fancy swapping wheels, and sticking that bloody Avon back on. Ho hum. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z |_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893. (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG* |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5 \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11 '^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000
Considering the clutch has been knackered since the weekend you rode it, I reckon it's done quite well. I'm now firmly of the belief that it was scuppered by them halfwits in Cheshire. Bit difficult to prove, 60k miles down the line, though. Changing the cambelts at 88000 miles isn't something a Ducati owner would be doing for the first time. I think "mechanical" is stretching it a bit. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z |_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893. (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG* |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5 \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11 '^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000
As it happens, I'm in That London (or at least Twickenham) next week. Do you want me and my left-handed drill bits to pay a visit one evening? Can't do much this weekend, if you're in a hurry thobut. -- Wicked Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer as featured in Performance Bikes and Fast Bikes WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41 SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner", Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big" Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha Vmax Honda ST1100 wiv trailer
Thanks, uncle. Trouble is, there's no more than 4" of clearance to work with. Unless you have a very tiny drill, this could be an issue. I was thinking of a drill bit in my Dremel-o-like with the flexi-shaft thing. Drill a little hole ( or dent) on one side to allow a punch to gain purchase. Even if the thread gets damaged, it's a through hole, iyswim, so I can bung a nut on the end of a longer bolt. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z |_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893. (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG* |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5 \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11 '^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, SD I say! That's a tad personal. Sounds like a plan. Definitely a plan. Good luck, Carruthers. -- Wicked Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer as featured in Performance Bikes and Fast Bikes WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41 SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner", Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big" Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha Vmax Honda ST1100 wiv trailer
Cor. A good idea. I must write it down. Oh, I have. Ta. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z |_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893. (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG* |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5 \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11 '^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000
No. It was replaced shortly after, in Cheshire. It still gave issues, so I replaced it in 2004. What didn't get replaced was the pressure plate with the knackered threads. I'm getting old - bound to be a little unsteady on me pins. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z |_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893. (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG* |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5 \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11 '^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000
Put a blob of weld on it. It won't stick to the casing because steel doesn't weld to alloy. Then weld a socket head to the blob of weld. Then apply socket bar.
snip> If it's just a broken stud in a casing then you might be able to knock it round with a very small centre punch and watch it unscrew like magic. Hit it close to the edge but not on the thread iyswim and it should move a little bit. Then tap it the other way to shift any debris before trying to unscrew it all the way. Once it's out half a turn the job's easy. If that doesn't work then find someone with access to a Hiab (Robbo might be able to assist) and use it to dump the bike in a skip along with any other Hondas you own. Why you expect a company that made the CG125 to produce anything worth having I'll never know.
It's out! [1] Now - what's the current favourite gloop for sticking bits of alloy engine casings back together? [1] Big drill charger completely fubared - so a trip to B&Q was called for. They didn't have one, but the did have Ryobi 18v drill and 90deg drill combo sets on special offer. That's £135 I won't be seeing again. They're dead good, though. Honest. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z |_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893. (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG* |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5 \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11 '^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000
JB-Weld was the gloop of choice. Mainly cos that's all I had. Nice, tidy, repair, too. Time will tell how strong it is. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z |_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893. (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG* |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5 \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11 '^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000
It's not a hole, thankfully. It's a side of the third alternator mounting lug. The remainder has thread, and the bolt seems secure enough. It's more cosmetic, than anything. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z |_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893. (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG* |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5 \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11 '^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, SD You've moulded the JB Weld around the bolt, haven't you? -- Wicked Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer as featured in Performance Bikes and Fast Bikes WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41 SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner", Honda GL1000K2 (Falling apart) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big" Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha Vmax Honda ST1100 wiv trailer
Not necessary, the JB weld is holding the original piece to the engine. The smooth bit of the bolt is wrapped in Sellotape to prevent future disasters. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z |_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893. (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG* |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5 \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11 '^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000
Euphemism of the week... -- platypus "Merely corroborative detail, intended to give artistic verisimilitude to an otherwise bald and unconvincing narrative."
JB Weld reconstructed a rotten propeller on a boat I was selling - held up at 25 knots in sea water long enough for a convincing sea trial and a quick sell. Excellent stuff. -- Rich ============================== 2001 Disco II ES auto 1971 S2a 88" petrol 2005 XT660R
