is part of my goldwing carburetor tee _missing_ or what?? (pix)

my goldwing six has a seemingly uncureable hunting or surging problem,
possibly caused by this missing <?> plastic piece on the side of my
carb tee <?>

bike starts and idles fine hot or cold. accerates fine up through ALL
gears (as long as it's 'floored'). runs fine at any steady RPM, but
-only- while on the centerstand (using throttle lock).

bike will _NOT_ hold any steady cruise speed on the hiway in 3rd, 4th,
or 5th gear. weirdly, it runs fine (& @ any steady cruise speeds) in
1st or 2nd. gearshift sensor is fine (tested out completely), fuel
pump and filter output excellent and steady by test, electric _to_
fuel pump steady on hiway by test, air cleaner clean, gas fresh, plugs
clean and gapped -

I've rebuilt these carbs _twice_ this past month, and still the same
nuisance. acts as if either ign key being shut off or as if run
_completely_ and _suddenly_ out of fuel when ANY steady RPM range or
hiway speed attempted in 3, 4 , or 5th gear. very near unrideable.
carbs are both 'cleaner than clean' (carb bodies cleaning involving,
in part: pot-scrub dishwasher cycle, pressure washing at 3500 psi,
blown out with 175 psi air, soaked in carb cleaners and lacquer
thinners for days, etc)

is part of this plastic <carb vacuum ?> "tee" fitting missing? please
see pix at

members.cox.net/tool_box

this is drivin' me _nuts_

 

Are they synchronized?


--

Later,

Charlie

fix the e-mail address and it will get to me

 

Bill .....
What year is this bike?

Didn't some Wings have some kinda fuse, fuseable wire, shorted wire near
the battery, intermittent miss, dying in mid stream sorta problem, on
'some' older models?

A bare wire kinda thing?
It's been awhile






mtm

'95 750 Nighthawk (big red)
'95 Helix (little red)

 

Site does not come up valid.....






mtm

'95 750 Nighthawk (big red)
'95 Helix (little red)

 

Maybe it could also be an ignition problem. If your timing is wandering
around, you can get all kinds of strange engine behavior.

 

thanks guys for your replies

regarding all your suggestions, the bike -=ONLY=- has 'surging',
jerking, -very- "herky-jerky" behavior in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears. so,
what carb synch problem or fuseable, shorted wire, or ignition timing
problem could occur ONLY in the UPPER gears? could that be possible?

regarding the harness connector mentioned, are you saying the
connector might have a problem where it connects brain to the harness?
it has an outer 'hard cap' cover (2 snaps) and an inner push-on (2
'click-ears') connector. all was 'clean as a whistle' in there, and
still is. seems ok. is there a wire in the harness that 'could' cause
strange behavior but _only_ in certain (the upper 3) gears?

there's _never_ a problem in 1st or 2nd gear; the bike'll run fine at
any speed, 'throttle lock on' or not, but only IF it's in 1st or 2nd
gear. I checked the gear position sensor (the only item I thought that
could maybe cause this, or that seemed 'road speed or gearbox
position-related to me) per the factory manual procedure with volt
ohmmeter, in all gear positions (neutral, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th),
and it tests correctly in all six positions.

still can't find any procedure in factory manual for testing the brain
'itself', only the items that 'feed' it, some of which tests I can't
do, because the way they're written (or translated from japaneese)
makes them undoable, even with lots of 'educated guesswork' about what
they're trying to say :-(. steps are missing, vacuum specs for parts
of the test and other procedural steps just -aren't- in the book, and
I'm suspecting one airjet/vacuum solenoids 'test results' chart is in
the wrong place, or the wrong chart is in the right place in the
manual - very frustrating. stuff like "hook a vacuum pump to the
brain, and do the rest of these steps, apply this amount vacuum to
both solenoids with another two vacuum pumps" (but never a MENTION
anywhere of how much vacuum or when to apply it to the 'brain'!) -
illustrations show 3 speperate vac pumps in use. this = total
confusuion. why even BOTHER hooking a vac pump to the brain IF it's
not gonna be used? are they just using it as a 'blind cap'? ....they
never say, & I got no clue.... there's simply too much info missing
entirely or transposed in the book to even complete the test<s>

well, the brain circuit board itself looks 'factory brand new' clean.
it has no visible burnt stuff <resistors, diodes/whatevers> or leaking
capacitors, no strange goo on it, no scratches, no scrapes or dirt,
etc... :-(

so, I'm asking myself (and you guys too ;-):

is there ANYthing other than the ECU/"brain" that could _possibly_
cause this wildly surgey/herky-jerky krap but _only_ in the upper 3
gears? (not trying to be a 'wise guy' here, just asking).

think I'm gonna go have root canal this afternoon "for some fun" (this
is still drivin' me nuts)

 

hi keith, thanks. as I said earlier in thread, fuel pump AND fuel
filter flow rate (output) BOTH test excellent. fuel pump and fuel
filter (combined) 'output' more than double the factory 'minimum
output' spec in cc per minute.

fuel pump pressure also good, and, I went a little 'outside the box'
and tested electric supply _TO_ fuel pump 'on the hiway' (by soldering
a tiny lite bulb with longish leads to the fuel pump power and
grounds, with bulb itself temporarily taped to the dash) and found the
elctric supply to the pump _itself_ to be steady and continous, even
when problem _is_ occuring (bike bucking wildly)....also, fuel filter
itself optically clear (no dirt or sediment seen inside it). so, umm,
anybody got any other idea? right now I'm thinkin' "what else COULD it
be BUT the brain?" (but, sheesh, I don't know).

I'm kinda from the 'points and condenser, simple carb, driver uses HIS
brain, and it's the SOLE brain' era...

thanks again /I'm still hoping for a sudden insight...

 

hi keith, thanks. as I said earlier in thread, fuel pump AND fuel
filter flow rate (output) BOTH test excellent. fuel pump and fuel
filter (combined) 'output' more than double the factory 'minimum
output' spec in cc per minute.

fuel pump pressure also good, and, I went a little 'outside the box'
and tested electric supply _TO_ fuel pump 'on the hiway' (by soldering
a tiny lite bulb with longish leads to the fuel pump power and
grounds, with bulb itself temporarily taped to the dash) and found the
elctric supply to the pump _itself_ to be steady and continous, even
when problem _is_ occuring (bike bucking wildly)....also, fuel filter
itself optically clear (no dirt or sediment seen inside it). so, umm,
anybody got any other idea? right now I'm thinkin' "what else COULD it
be BUT the brain?" (but, sheesh, I don't know).

I'm kinda from the 'points and condenser, simple carb, driver uses HIS
brain, and it's the SOLE brain' era...

thanks again /I'm still hoping for a sudden insight...