Idle adjust 2 carbs

The RD has 2 carbs, both of which have an idle adjuster. How do I ensure
that they are adjusted equally? Do I just guess?

--
Ash ([:])

BOTAFOT#82 UKRMFBC#8 HMC#5 YFC#0(KotL)
ETV1000 Caponord http://www.theredline.co.uk/ballistic
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." --
Mario Andretti

 

I usually guess on the idle adjusters (adjust them so tweaking either
has an affect on the idle speed). I usually adjust the cables by putting
half a lolly stick under each slide and adjusting the cables so both
sticks dip at the same time when you twist the throttle. i guess a
similar method could be used for idle speed, but it's not that critical.
On a YPVS you can put the sticks in just by removing the rubbers between
the carb and the airbox - nfi if this will work on a 200.

 

Ash@Work had a fit and wibbled.....

There should be 2 hex head bolts at the top of each carb body, up by the
top cap. Keep the engine switched off. Take each of those bolts out and
wind the throttle fully open. When the slide is at the top, you should
be able to see a small mark (they look like someones started to drill a
hole in the slide) on each carb slide through each bolt hole. Adjust the
throttle cables on each carb until both of these drill marks line up at
exactly the same point at the tiop of the bolt hole, when the throttle
is wound right open. Replace the 2 viewing hole bolts in the carb
bodies. That's the throttle cables synched.

Next, making sure first that the timing is set up correctly, the air
screws are set to the correct amount of turns out etc, and that the oil
cable is adjusted, you need to balance the carbs.

Take the left plug lead off the plug, and wind the tickover adjuster for
the right carb in a couple of turns. Switch the bike on and kick start
it, don't use the leccy foot, they are crap and waste the batteries on
RD200s. The bike should start on just the right cylinder and you want it
to tick over at a steadyish 1500 revs, you might need to adjust the
tickover up or down to suit using the brass tickover adjuster screw
sticking out at the base of the carb slide body. Blip the throttle and
let it settle down, and make sure it holds 1500ish revs. Switch the
engine off. Replace left plug cap and remove right plug cap, wind left
tickover adjuster in a couple of turns. Repeat the procedure for getting
1500ish revs and switch engine off again. Replace right plug cap.

BE WARNED. When you start the bike the next time, it will rev it's tits
off.

Start the bike again with both plug caps in place. The bike will be
revving very highly. Back off both adjusters an equal amount each, until
the revs die down to the required engine speed on tickover.

That's it, job done.



--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CBCBCB750RSRSRS
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
www.mjkleathers.com

 

Ballistic had a fit and wibbled.....

Your timing will need to be spot on before you start mucking about with
carbs etc.

I don't have a DTI anymore cos someone stole it. You'll need one to do
the timing properly.

The air screws aren't the idle screws. The idle screws are large knurled
brass screws with a spring behind them sticking out at right angles at
the base of the slider part of the carb body. The air screws are smaller
and usually go in at an angle on RD carbs.

The oil cable is the one that comes out of the junction under the tank
where the single throttle cable from the grip splits into 3 short ones.
2 of these cables go to the carbs and the other goes to the right hand
front of the engine diving into the black case in front of the clutch
housing, alongside 3 pipes. Behind that cover with 3 screws is the oil
pump. Make sure it's set up right as per the book, or it'll seize.

Don't you have a HBoL? It'#s all expalined in there



--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CBCBCB750RSRSRS
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
www.mjkleathers.com

 

<Lots of snippage>

Anyone would think you have done that once or twice before ...

 

The Smiths had a fit and wibbled.....

Ivan explained it better, but he's a fucking academic, he's used to
that.

--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CBCBCB750RSRSRS
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
www.mjkleathers.com

 

That's pretty much how I used to balance the carbs on my ShiteOldBoxer.
Used to take 3 mins.

--

Dave

GS 850 x2 / SE 6a
SbS#6? DIAABTCOD#16 APOSTLE#16? FUB#3
FUB KotL OSOS#12? UKRMMA#19