I hate the armstrong again.

Spent 2 hours trying to get the bloody rear wheel spindle out.
Much wedging, levering, oiling and tapping and it finally came out.
There's a step in it where it goes through the brake drum/sprocket
assembly. Water must be able to get to there and a bit of ali/steel
corrosion had got going.
In my enthusiasm to get the trellys on I pinched the bloody tube
The spare tube is at home of course whilst this stuff is going on at my
work premises.
Rescued by the missus and it's sat there with no wheels.

I may go and look at xt's tomorrow.........

 

It makes sense in the long run.

You can pick up an older one for under a grand and there's always a
good supply available. You could always splash out about £3.5k and get
a Tenere with a nice big petrol tank and once the reg/rec has been
checked out they're a pretty good bike.

It's worth noting that if you went down the Tenere route all you'd
have to do is pull the block connector to the reg/rec, check it for
any signs of corrosion and if it's ok spray some silicone grease on
there and shove it back together. If it's corroded Yamaha know about
the problem and will give you a new reg/rec and wiring harness FOC.

 

Shame they didn't do that for the old model :-(

 

First refusal?

--


Nige,

'Candygram for Mongo'

R1

 

I may want it for parts...

 

I had no problem doing mine. I dropped the rear wheel simply because it
made access to a fastener easier. All I needed was an old bit of bar to
undo it - two minute job.

I guess you didn't want to hear that.

 

You *want* an MT500?!

 

It'll be OK now. Just had never been taken off I think.
Bit of a clean up and some grease

 

I actually like mine; it's got all the right names: Ohlins shocks,
Marzochi (sp?) forks and Grimeca brakes but...

....does yours:

Have a really rough low end - feels/sounds like the engine is doing some
self-harm pulling at low revs, but running at higher speeds and it's
sweet and lively.

Have stupidly bright idiot lights (except the gen light) - especially the
"Lights on" and main beam warning lights.

Records distances in KM but speeds in MPH and have a broken trip reset

Leaks oil from the sump pan.

Well, does it?

 

I like mine once it's going.

It doesn't sound bad ticking over actually.
Sounds fine going.

Not particularly. Some lights don't work though. No neutral or generator
light. [1]

Haven't tried. [1]

Not sure. [1]

Does yours:

Always start promptly or only when it feels like it?

Use a lot of oil?

Is the speedo' needle useful beyond 20mph?

Does your carburettor have a plastic knob or a lever? [2]

Does it restart easily if you stall/stop it hot?

1. Tomorrow I intend to get to the bottom of these things with a
spanner.

2. I'm starting to suspect this carb is maladjusted or the wrong one [1]

 

Mine sounds pretty rough idling - Champ's heard it. Not sure why it
sounds so poor and pulls poorly at low revs as it really is very nice "on
song". Perhaps it's the carb as it improves as it gets hotter?

First or second kick - always needs choke unless it's screaming hot and
only just stopped.

Yes, but the fucker won't be going rusty. Suspect the O ring sump pan
seal. They also have reputation for burning a bit.

I need to fix the leak and calculate consumption rates for the 4000 mile
trip. I may be taking the best part of a gallon spread over 4x1 litre
bottles.

Not bad - you may find the cable could do with greasing if it's swinging
about the shop.

Mine's a Mikuni and has metal choke lever on its side that lifts a little
plunger. It's a PITA as my winter gloves struggle to flip it back up as
the oil return pipe is in the way - summer gloves are ok.

I may have a Guzzi cable operated one that might be persuaded to fit.

I'm going to find the actual source of the sump leak.

Sounds like it - the OE Amal has a piss poor reputation.

What does the MT Riders Forum say about jetting?
http://forum.mtridersclub.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=82

 

That just sounds odd.

 

Well, it turns out some PO has replaced every bulb with a super bright
LED. He's also done a very neat job of it too. All very well done with
neat, proper crimped connections and mucho heat shrink. Problem is what
all the extra bits are/do is in his head.

I now know how to disconnect the fairy lights (only those who have seen
them will understand).

The non-working speedo light was down to a broken solder joint to the
original bulb holder - I replaced that with a spare Guzzi holder and
filament bulb.

The "stupidly bright idiot" lights were toned down with the aid of a
Quality Street wrapper stuffed in the lamp housing.

Th PO may have been neat and professional...

 

Took the bugger off and had a good look at it today.
It's definitely a Mikuni VM 32-33.
Once started the bike runs well so I'm assuming the main jet and needle
must be OK.
It even ticks over OK so the pilot jets must be OK.

So why is it such a twat to start and won't start on choke (enrichment
device really)

Took the float bowl off and it's as clean as a whistle in there.
Forgot to check the main jet size and check the float level though
The throttle cable was pretty tight so I did wonder if the slide was not
quite going all the way down so adjusted that.
Checked the carb-head rubber and though its a bit rough it is sound.
Made sure the air filter was seated properly and put it all back
together.
The air screw was 3 turns out which seemed a bit much so turned it in to
1 1/2 out.
Checked the plug and sure enough [1] it was a little dark, not sooty
though.
It simply will not start. Plug gets really wet.
Tried dropping the needle a slot in desperation but no go.
Put it all back to how it was and it starts wanting to fire.

Checked the spark and it looks reasonable enough; white rather than
blue.


1. It only starts with no choke [2] so it must be a little rich if it
starts cold (eventually) when its being ridden about no?
2. Enrichment device; on or off.

 

In message <>, sweller

Having tinkered all day;

I don't appear to have one.....

 

Knowing how and doing are not the same thing.

 

Try a grade softer plug in this weather? My big bore high compression
Nordwest was a pig to start when cold. A whiff of throttle or choke and
it would sulk or give the occasional huge KSB effect , but a DPR8
instead of 9 made a big difference, even more so if an EV or whatever
the new super whizz bang NGKs are.
--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Aprilia Shiver Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Cheeky ****. It's not a breaker !

Paul.

 

If it's not a breaker it needs someone to find one that is being
broken to make it even half reliable.