Hoo-bloody-rah!

I bought a K1100LT last summer and proceeded to pull it apart at the end
of June to shim the valves. Unfortunately the BMW 16V K series engine
is a cam-out job.

Because I was too tight to pay about 80- for a cam-setting tool and a
camchain 'positioning' tool I had to pull the radiator off. And a whole
bundle of other engine casings and what have you.

One thing led to another and I didn't get the engine back together until
August.

And then another thing led to a further and I didn't get the cooling
system back together until er... today.

I turned it over (with the fuel pump disconnected) to get the oil
circulated since it had been standing for a while; luckily I'd got the
cam timing correct since there wasn't a 'ching' noise.

I then connected the fuel pump and churned it over... it started within
two seconds and settled into a happy idle.

I'm very impressed. It's been standing for about 9 months without being
turned over and started that easily. In fact it starts easier than my
daily commuter (K100RT).

Took it out for a little spin on the private roads and all seems well;
just got to remember how the bodywork goes back on now...

So once I've got the K1100LT back on the road (and all the salt is gone)
I can sort out the K100RT fuelling problems.

 

I've also got private roads like that to test machines on; mine are
conveniently labelled "Sussex".

 

Mine are conveniently painted brown with cow shit. So at this time of
year brake tests are not an option... although the K1100 does have
ABS...

 

Excellent. Damn reliable beasts and the last BMW worthy of note. I don't
like the big traillie twins. I would still have an 1100LT if the gearing
in top was 20% higher. I've often thought of splitting a 'box and having
a custom gear pair cut, for sure Bonners knows a man.

What's the mileage and did many of the tappets actually need shimming.

 

Mileage is a shade over 40k. (40,700 or so)

And, one tappet was a bit tight (No. 1 exhaust) and another whilst
within spec. had a little more clearance than the 'twin' (No. 2 inlet).

That was it really.

Regarding upping the top gear, how realistic would this be? And how
costly... I mean (from memory) it gets to its top speed quickly enough
so there's plenty of oomph to pull a higher gear. I'd be seriously
interested in this; I'd assumed it was way-too-fucking-expensive since
I'd not seen it as an aftermarket accessory/service from the likes of
motorworks/bins/ sherlocks.

 

Ultimate Source used to make a 10% higher ratio gear pair for the twin
shock R100RS but they long since went to the wall. My understanding of
gear cutting is that if you supplied the originals setting up and making
the new items is not difficult. There is then heat treatment to be
considered. As I said, Bonners could probably advise.

 

snip>

If (and it's a very big if) you knew what gearing was required and
knew it had been done before you'd do it for about £300 including any
heat treatment but assuming no gear grinding.

Trying to work it out for yourself and make sure everything fitted and
meshed would involve paying someone to produce good drawings of the
gearbox and drive train then drag and drop various different gearing
into the drawing. Allow about a grand for that bit alone.

Once you've changed all the associated bearings and seals plus any
other stupid little bits like circlips you're talking a lot of money
that could be spent buying something closer to what you want without
all the fucking around.

 

wrote in message

And today I've got all the bodywork back on and done 40 miles on it.

My, it's quicker than the K100 and handles better too. It's only a
matter of weeks until i bin it I suppose.

 

Not hard. I rode a 100LT to the Bol and back and it was an appalling
wallowy barge. Two-up, on a mountain road, the front wheel tucked under
momentarily. The bike recovered, but it took a huge scab of leather off
my boot and unsettled me rather.

The 1000LT was definitely underpowered, too, for the stuff it had to
drag around. Not surprised to hear that the 1100 was better.