Honda Rectifier / Regulator Units...

Yes, yes, I know they're prone to problems on most early 90s onwards models.

I just wanted to clarify how 'black and white' the symptoms needed to be to
define a problem with one of these, rather than the bikes alternator etc.

I've already done the 'CBR600 which when you came to a standstill, smelt of
rotten eggs' problem, where the reg. was letting the alternator overcharge
the battery and then some, this year.

If the problem was at the other end of the spectrum, as in the battery isn't
getting charged, given my bike charges the battery fine without the
headlight on, is it possible the reg/rec unit is the cause in as much as
it's letting *some* current through, or do they, if they're going to play up
at all in this respect, just give up completely, and not let any charge at
all through to the battery?

TIA for any help.

 

I suppose this could be the reg/rec unit, insofar as the regulator part is
faulty or one or more of the diodes in the recitifier section have gone
Gallipoli, only rectifing one or two phases of the alternator.


Saying this, the first thing I would check in cases of a low charge like
this would be the stator. I`m not sure how it is on newer Hondas, but on
older ones its the good old "3 Yellow Wires" check coming into the reg/rec.
Take the plug out from the reg/rec containing these 3 wires and check them
over with a multimeter.

General rule of thumb is if you`re reading continuity, or close to it,
between any of the yellow wires to ground, the stator is shot. If you`re
lucky it`ll just be where one of the wires passes through the engine casing
shorting out. In which case, isolate and insulate. If you`re unlucky it
means one of the bobbins has shorted out in its own windings. Get a
replacement stator or get it rewound.

If this checks out all ok, now measure resistance between any of the 3
wires. You should get a fairly low (under 5 Ohms or so if I recall
correctly) reading between any of the wires. Any infinite or high (kohm
scale) readings indicate that one of them has gone open circuit. Again, if
you`re lucky it`ll be a broken wire. Again, isolate and repair. If you`re
not lucky it`ll be blown open in the bobbins, in which case same as before.
Rewind or replace the stator.


Right. I think all that makes sense. It is 10 to 7 after all...


Have fun!

 

No, not really - bar this couple of issue, a need for tyres, and one or two
other minor niggles, it's pretty good - nice smooth gearbox, shitloads of
power, and the chassis is as straight as a die.

That, and I can get a full refund on it if I want, or the parts acquired /
repairs effected to it at no cost to myself.

Anyway... thanks for the input - you've been a real help.

 

Certainly does.

Cheers.

 

The sympoms are very easy to diagnose. Carefully examine the outer
surface of the bike, & if you see the word 'Honda' anywhere, replace
the reg/rec.

HTH.

 

I had similar issues with the TS50 last year.

Having replaced the Reg/Rec I discovered corroded connections leading to the
dynamo/ magneto / charging thingy.

--
Dan L (Oldbloke)
My bike 1996 Kawasaki ZR1100 Zephyr
M'boy's bike 2003 Honda NSR125R (Going)
Spare Bike 1990 Suzuki TS50X (Patio Ornament)
BOTAFOT #140 (KotL 2005), X-FOT#000, DIAABTCOD #26, BOMB#18 (slow)