Honda 4-4 restoration Questions:

Discussion in 'Classic Motorbikes' started by CB400f OKB178S, May 31, 2005.

  1. An updated website at http://www.artistic.flyer.co.uk/Honda.htm shows the
    events of this weekend. To cut a long story short, the wheels are going to
    take 3 weeks to get back from the wheel people, so I gutted the entire bike
    and sent off the frame to be blasted and powder coated, along with main
    stand / side stand / torque bar - swing arm and collar.

    Two questions today:

    1) There appears to be a crease / dent on one side of the swing arm. No
    damage at all to frame, and although very strange, it may be that it is
    meant to be there. Can fellow 400/4 owners check theirs to see if the same
    thing is present on theirs, I think it was the side of the RHS arm almost at
    the front. It may be to clear the brake mechanism, it may be damaged.

    2) Attention now turns to the forks and engine. I now have 5 of the 8
    exhaust studs out using methods described on this newsgroup. I am letting
    penetrating oil do its bit on the remaining 3 having already applied heat
    and a "tap" with a hammer. The forks whilst serviceable, are far from
    concours. What methods have folks here used to restore the aluminium lower
    fork to its former glory. The chrome is thankfully in good condition.

    As always, thanks for your time. Motorcycle restoration is something that I
    have not done for nearly 30 years, and this is the first one I have done
    with any outside help, but the result should be gorgeous.

    Regards

    First outing of the completed machine will be to the Ponderosa Cafe,
    Llangollen, North Wales. I`ll let you know when :eek:)
     
    CB400f OKB178S, May 31, 2005
    #1
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  2. CB400f OKB178S

    Timo Geusch Guest

    Metal polish and elbow grease. Lots of the latter...

    Solvol worked pretty well on the XL250.
    That's good news indeed!
     
    Timo Geusch, May 31, 2005
    #2
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  3. Don;t think there is on mine. I'll double-check tomorrow. Stay tuned.
    Nitromoprs to remove the old lacquer, Loyblox abrasive blocks, polishing
    kit for a Black & Decker, Solvol and elbow grease.

    Nothing else works.
     
    The Older Gentleman, May 31, 2005
    #3
  4. I did a similar thing on the RD, 1200 wet 'n dry paper to remove the
    lacquer and lots of elbow grease with Solvol. With hindsight a polishing
    kit would have saved a lot of time.

    --
    Mike Buckley
    RD350LC2
    GSF600S
    http://www.toastyhamster.org
    BONY#38
     
    mike. buckley, May 31, 2005
    #4
  5. CB400f OKB178S

    Guest Guest

    What methods have folks here used to restore the aluminium lower
    Polishing kits do save hours and tubes of autosol, but get a
    bench grinder: They can take larger polishing mops, have
    more torque than a drill and won't burn out (like your dril
    motor) during an all day polishing session.

    Remember to re-lacquer once you've got it nice and shiny or
    the alloy will just start oxidising again - especially if
    you ride in the winter.
     
    Guest, Jun 1, 2005
    #5
  6. Good call.
    Except that the lacquer will fall off again.... I prefer justr to
    re-polish from time to time.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jun 1, 2005
    #6
  7. CB400f OKB178S

    Timo Geusch Guest

    No to mention the kind of laquer that slowly separates from the metal
    surface, allowing water underneath but proves a complete barsteward to
    remove...
     
    Timo Geusch, Jun 1, 2005
    #7
  8. CB400f OKB178S

    Ben Blaney Guest

    I don't have mine handy, but I've got some pics. I'll lob them on the
    web when I get caught up with my email.
    It will rain.
     
    Ben Blaney, Jun 1, 2005
    #8
  9. CB400f OKB178S

    'Hog Guest

    I did find a solution for this to protect the corrode_very_quickly alloy
    of an early K100 final drive box and swinging arm. Took it along to my
    local powder coating contractor. They bead blasted the surfaces and then
    baked on a clear powder coat which was hard and durable. It worked very
    nicely and the finished result only yellowed the look of the aluminium
    very slightly.

    'Hog
     
    'Hog, Jun 1, 2005
    #9
  10. CB400f OKB178S

    Guest Guest

    Remember to re-lacquer once you've got it nice and shiny or
    Eeeuww. Never had that happen (yet). Whole point of
    lacquering was to cut out the regular polishing malarky by
    stopping corrosion dead.

    Mr Fastner (bless his little stainless bolts) sold a
    paint-on lacquer that reeked like acetone. Several coats of
    that have lasted four+ winters without flake or yellowing
    and its petrol-proof. Unfortunatly they appear to have
    gone out of business some years ago.

    Recent parts were done with spray-on acrylic lacquer which
    has yellowed, but only when sprayed with hot oil.
     
    Guest, Jun 1, 2005
    #10
  11. Blimey. Good stuff.
    Ah.

    Seriously, though - in this country's climate, if you ride a bike
    regularly, lacquer is going to die whatever you do.

    Re-lacquer regularly or polish regularly? I'll polish.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jun 1, 2005
    #11
  12. CB400f OKB178S

    Guest Guest

    A brief hunt turned up the following nugget:
    http://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=507053
    Looks like someone still has stocks.
    ^^^^^^^
    ....and Chrome plate, paintwork, rubber, PVC and plastic.
    Nothing wrong with fighting the inevitable though.
    If those were my options, I'd paint it all black - except
    the flaky black paint was why I polished it up years ago.

    (..there's a hole in my bucket, dear 'Liza, dear 'Liza...)
     
    Guest, Jun 2, 2005
    #12
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