home plating

I'm considering home nickelplating for the odd nuts and bolts I want
refurbished because hard to find. OK, buying a DIY-kit would be the main
option, but can somebody point me in the direction of a good one? Otherwise,
what could be the home-setup to give it a go without the kit?

Thanks,

PePe

 

Some years ago I got the "Dynic Sales" Ni plating kit to do various
bits for my old Panther. The process can work but it demands absolute
attention to detail to produce a good and durable coating. I had many
failures before realising that surface finish and cleanliness, plating
temp and control of the pure dc current were critical. If you're going
to try it without a kit you'll need an aquarium heater and themostat,
accurate mercury thermometer, air suplly and bubbler; a big rheostat
to control the current and an accurate amp-meter. Use a 12v car
battery rather than a charger. You'll also need a choice piece of pure
nickel for the anode (not cast nickel). Then you'll need the nickel
plating salts (nickel ammonium sulphate) and some pH papers to help
you control the inevitable acidity in the plating bath. The whole
set-up needs suspending in a plastic bath of appropriate size.
Degrease the bit to be plated by boiling in hot dish-washer powder
solution and then don't touch it. For say a petrol tank filler cap
it'll take at least a couple of hours of constant attention.

If all this sounds like a massive load of buggeration - it is !

Nevertheless, it can work and the finished pieces for the bike looked
magnificent. There was no deterioration in them for the 10 years I had
the bike.
I've got the original Dynic Sales instruction sheet if you want a pdf
copy. 'don't know what the new kits are like though.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, PePe

I'm *fairly* sure this has been discussed recently in
uk.rec.models.engineering. You might want to have a Google, or ask the
question over there.

 

Pantherfan wrote:

Look into the business of electrolitic degreasing too. It's the same
set-up as for plating but you use a different fluid.

It's a lot more thorough.

Did I hear that Cola is a good medium for this?

 

Many years ago we plated most of the small parts on the Enfield using an
electroless nickel plating set, basically bung some powder into an enamel
bowl of demin water and maintain 90 degrees centigrade, then hang the parts
to be plated in the solution. It plated at the rate of a thou an hour, but
you could only plate for one hour, then had to let the parts 'rest'

It worked very nicely and gave a good finish that lasted well, and took a
good polish as well.

The only problem is I have never seen the kits since

/d

 

Cola contains phosphoric acid (that's why it rots your teeth). This is
one of the 2 acids in proprietory rust removers. the other is usually
hydrochloric. To get rid of oil & grease you need a strong alkali, not
acid. Organic solvents [like trichlorethylene] will only work properly
in an industrial degreasing bath - wiping them over the article only
redistributes the crap when they evaporate.
I agree about the superior degreasing via electrolytic processes, but
dishwasher solution is a lot easier. The crystals are markedly
alkaline and will get rid of deeply ingrained grease if boiled.
I don't advise using one of 'her' best aluminium saucepans do it in
tho'

 

I picked up 5L of Swarfega metal restorer. It has had a dramatic effect
on the Yamaha's silencers. Certainly worth the £6 I paid for it,
especially as it needs diluting.

http://www.deb.co.uk/ukswarfega/

 

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