Hmm... that noise isn't normal...

Progress update!

I've managed to remove the balls and the inner race. However the outer race
is proving very resistant. I've been cutting for well over an hour now and
I'm only 80% through one cut, and I've worn out all of the 8 mini grinding
stones that I had for my Dremel-type mini drill. Is this to be expected? Or
am I using the wrong tools?

Some of the grinding stones vanished in a minute, whereas a couple lasted
for over 10 mins. Is there a difference in quality in these things? They all
came from Maplin's.

I'd like to use the thin 3cm diameter cutting wheel in the Dremel but then I
can't get in at the right angle :-(

Help!

 

If you're using 'stone' type grinding bits then they come in different
grades and the way to tell the difference is the colour. Pink ones are
slightly harder than white ones so if you're going to buy more then
they're the ones to go for.

If you can get a carbide bit (a steel one that looks like it has
loads of tiny little cutting teeth on it) then that's the way to go.
It'll rip through the bearing outer in a couple of minutes. These are
the ones that you have to be really careful with because they'll send
loads of tiny slivers of steel flying everywhere.

 

Not that I have a clue, but I have just read, elsewhere, that a line of weld
on the outer race inner surface[1] is the way forward. It shrinks on cooling
and the race will pop out. Allegedly. Do you think that would work Andy?
Just a thought.

[1] It was related to head bearing when I read it but ...

 

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 11:54:56 -0000, "Scraggy"

snip>

It works but the small matter of where you put the return lead would
concern me. I don't know enough about welding to advise anyone on it,
I can stick bits of metal together and I can build things up with weld
but it's not really something I do.

 

Yes, its the stone type I've been using. Some are pink, some are blue. The
best one was definately pink.

Are these the carbide ones you mean? (top right)
http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/full/L48BK.jpg
However I wont be able to get them in at the right angle to be ueful.

Or these look good quality, but they're white:
http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/products.php?cat=Dremel Silicone Carbide Grinding Stones
"Use as you would use an aluminum oxide stone, but these stones are designed
to work well on hard materials such as porcelain and gemstones,stone, glass,
ceramics and hardened metals."

 

Not that I have a clue, but I have just read, elsewhere, that a line of

Hmm... I like the idea... but I dont think this will help. I still need to
lift the bearing off the piece of metal that locates in its groove, so I
need to put the big cuts in the outer race anyway. How deep is this groove?

Anyone know where I buy 'bearing fix' glue from? In Nottingham or online?

 

They'd work well but the type I meant are these ones:

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/...g_Wheels___Wheel_Dressers_92.html&CatalogBody

Scroll down until you see the set of 12 solid carbides. I've only used
this link because of the photo btw, you'd have to search around to
find ones that fit a dremel unless you get a 6mm collett with the
dremel.

 

You'll have to remove the balls and split each race in two or you'll
<snip>

I've got the old bearing out. Hurrah!

The only grinding stone which lasted was a pink one and after the glue which
holds it to the shaft melted, I superglued it back on and it managed to last
the whole second cut of the outer race. Then with 10 minutes of levering and
head scratching I managed to get the two halves out, past the retaining
ring.

Questions now:
1) how do I get the retaining ring out? It doesn't want to come out easily
and I dont fancy just grinding it all away (but I could)
2) As I dont need the official Suzuki bearing with a groove in it, where
could I get a generic one from (assuming at a fraction of the cost - a
mechanic guessed the Suzuki one would be around £60!). And where do I get
'bearing fix' glue?
3) what does the retaining ring do? (part 39 on here
http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Suzuki/1988/Motorcycles/2119_17.gif )
I cant see that it actually needs to do any retaining as the front sprocket
holds part 46 tight up against the bearing, so the bearing cant creep
anywhere.

Ta for your help so far. I love a good bodge...
Steve

 

snip>

If you grind into the centre of it you should be able to 'fold' it and
then remove it.

Measure the casing bore, the shaft diameter, and the width required.
These three sizes will give the bearing size. If you've been lucky
removing the bits and haven't thrown them away you might see some
numbers on the edge of the outer race. Go to your nearest bearing
stockist, give him the sizes, tell him the application and away you
go.

Bearing fix is just a description of what you need. Loctite 638
retainer will do the job but make sure the casing is spotlessly clean
and only use a small amount. Wipe away any surplus and don't get it in
the bearing or it'll lock solid.

You may not need to use anything to lock the bearing in place. Check
if the bearing is a decent fit before you glue it in place.

The ring does a job in that it positions the bearing in the correct
place. Measure the old outer against the position of the ring and see
if the bearing goes tight against the shoulder of the shaft. It looks
as if it does but you need to check. If it doesn't go hard against the
shoulder then you'll need to use the Loctite to hold the bearing in
the right place. Loctite cures quickly so you'll only get one chance
to position the bearing correctly if you have to do this.

No probs.

 

to position the bearing correctly if you have to do this.

It's all quite encouraging so far really!

 

I'm out of the country from Thursday so it's over to Nigel for
completion...

 

Taking herself on a well earned holiday to balmy golden shores one would
hope

 

We're off to Sharm El Sheikh for a week if that's what you meant.

 

Andy Bonwick says...

I didn't think any holiday could compensate for trying to sleep with her
mother.

--
Lozzo
Triumph Daytona 955i SE (Black with added black bits)
GSF600SW (broked)
'I do not object to people looking at their watches when I am speaking.
But I strongly object when they start shaking them to make certain they
are still going.' William Norman Birkett, 1st Baron Birkett, Oct 1960.

 

It's a mistake (1) anyone could make

(1) or not

 

Aye. Nice one.
Beer Tues or Wed BTW

 

Hog says...

I can't comment, I've never met Adie's mum.

--
Lozzo
Triumph Daytona 955i SE (Black with added black bits)
GSF600SW (broked)
'I do not object to people looking at their watches when I am speaking.
But I strongly object when they start shaking them to make certain they
are still going.' William Norman Birkett, 1st Baron Birkett, Oct 1960.

 

Kendal Tuesday, Gatwick Wednesday for the morning flight so you'll not
be able to take the piss.