Hmm... that noise isn't normal...

The Older Gentleman says...

GSXR750F,G and H model engines and any GSX750F engine up to 1998 will
fit straight in, they share the same power output according to Suzuki.
There's no need to modify the exhaust downpipes as the 600 shares the
same cylinder block height, it's just a sleeved down 750[1]. You can
even use the same ignition unit you have, it all plugs in and works the
same. You'll need the carbs from the 750 though, but at leat the cables
you have will fit. Bandit 600 engines also slot straight in.

A good 750 engine puts out 110 bhp and can be bought for about 250 quid.

[1] Guess who's been researching possible engine swops for the Bandit
600.

--
Lozzo
Triumph Daytona 955i SE (Black with added black bits)
GSF600SW (broked)
'I do not object to people looking at their watches when I am speaking.
But I strongly object when they start shaking them to make certain they
are still going.' William Norman Birkett, 1st Baron Birkett, Oct 1960.

 

Look, it's a harsh scoring system. If you go out for lunch, that's your
choice and you have to accept the consequences. ;-)

It hurts even more now I know it's my fault... :-(
I hope none of you guys hang around on uk.rec.cars.maintenance too.
Everything I touch recently turns to rat-shit.

This does sound vaguely plausible. It scares me though. However, I could try
it, and if I fail, I'm in no worse a position?

What is 'bearing fix'. I assume a glue of some kind?

The outer race will be very hard. I can't imagine that will be easy to
Dremel in two?

 

Eiron says...

There's not enough room in the GSX or Bandit 600 frame for the 1100
engine as it's way too tall. In fact getting a 600 engine back in to the
Bandit frame is a squeeze if you have to remove it, which I have.

--
Lozzo
Triumph Daytona 955i SE (Black with added black bits)
GSF600SW (broked)
'I do not object to people looking at their watches when I am speaking.
But I strongly object when they start shaking them to make certain they
are still going.' William Norman Birkett, 1st Baron Birkett, Oct 1960.

 

Get it at the bearing factorwhen you go to buy a new bearing! yes it's
similar to loctite for threads

Depends on the dremel tool! I got through XS650 cam bearings like
cheese.
You are probably going to score the casing where you cut through. As
long as you don't damage it out to where the seal goes or go silly it
should be fine. You could fill it with some liquid metal and sand down
carefully if you do **** up.

 

Well having the engine/carbs/electrics/exhaust out to drop the engine
out is a fuckload of hassle too and daunting for a newbie. If it's an
old tired bike the exhaust system could fall apart, the studs could
shear or the carb rubbers could split.

If it was me I'd prize the balls/retainer out, get the inner race off
the shaft and then consider how easy it is to cut the outer race. There
may not be enough clearance to get anything meaningful close in but my
Dremel flexi-driver is pretty good. The getting out of the bearing,
even the replacement doesn't worry me. Not having the bearing pegged in
place would be my concern as might the case join leaking after it's
torqued up.

 

The starter motor on the Bandit died on Saturday, got the quote from
the garage today ... £391 just for the starter !!!!!

But good old eBay came to the rescue and a replacement, not new, is
heading to me for £40.

 

The Older Gentleman says...

There's one absolute certainty with this proceedure. You will have to
drill and helicoil the exhaust bolt threads in the cylinder head, they
always rust and snap flush when removing the exhaust.

--
Lozzo
Triumph Daytona 955i SE (Black with added black bits)
GSF600SW (broked)
'I do not object to people looking at their watches when I am speaking.
But I strongly object when they start shaking them to make certain they
are still going.' William Norman Birkett, 1st Baron Birkett, Oct 1960.

 

Oh, yeah, right. As you say, forget fitting a new retaining ring.
Getting the bearing in would be easy enough. I reckon your solution is
worth trying. But then it's not my bike ;-)

 

Given the sheer hassle of the repair and the fact that the engine has to
come out anyway, this would be my course of action.

 

Excellent. Thanks for that. But at the mo my current plan is to dismantle
the engine and replace the bearing.

It'a nice thought to upgrade to a GSXR750 engine but it would probably not
be a good idea with my lack of riding talent and too much confidence. (see
previous mention of high-siding...)

 

Stevie says...

GSX750F engine is the same unit remember.

Ffs, you've owned it for 15 years, you ought to be used to it by now.

--
Lozzo
Triumph Daytona 955i SE (Black with added black bits)
GSF600SW (broked)
'I do not object to people looking at their watches when I am speaking.
But I strongly object when they start shaking them to make certain they
are still going.' William Norman Birkett, 1st Baron Birkett, Oct 1960.

 

It's a nice thought to upgrade to a GSXR750 engine

Good point. That may be a good compromise.

Ah yes, but the first 14.5 years weren't exploring the limits of me and the
bike on the track, so they don't really count...

 

You might want to uprate the brakes and suspension at the same time.
It's easily and cheaply done.

 

The Older Gentleman says...

Bandit 600 and 750[1] share the same brakes and suspension. I have a
feeling the GSX600/750Fs were very similar in the braking and suspension
depts too.

[1] Jap market only, looked like a 1200 but was smaller and based more
on the 600.

--
Lozzo
Triumph Daytona 955i SE (Black with added black bits)
GSF600SW (broked)
'I do not object to people looking at their watches when I am speaking.
But I strongly object when they start shaking them to make certain they
are still going.' William Norman Birkett, 1st Baron Birkett, Oct 1960.

 

Only time it happened to me was my old GT550 kwak - squealing and rapid
slowing down. Turned out that a bolt had come loose[1] in the rear drum
and the head was doing a lathe impression on the inside of the drum. It
left a trail of swarf down the road and into the layby.
Maybe check for anything come loose internally which could have hit
something spinny?

[1] Euphemism for mechanic hadn't tightened them all up, probably.

 

snip>

Just use a dremel or similar to nick the inner race so you can release
the balls from the bearing and then split the inner and outer race
completely. Pop out the bits, fit a new bearing and away you go. If
you can get hold of a powerful vacuum cleaner then fit a small nozzle
on it and get someone to hold it next to the bearing as you grind it
away. I've removed fucked bearings from stuff a lot more expensive
than your bike and never had a problem so just on with it.

Don't use heat to warm the casing up in an attempt to make it easier
to fit the new bearing, you'll end up making the bore smaller because
the alloy will expand in the nearest direction which will be into the
bore. Just use a drift to knock the bearing into position. Freezing it
will make it shrink everywhere and you'll get it stuck on the shaft.

You'll still run the risk of swarf contamination so would have to
change the oil after about 50 miles but if it was my engine on that
bike I'd do it.

 

Whew glad I'm not completely loon suggesting it

Ah right, ok

 

You sound convincing. I now feel that this is worth a try.

The only bit I'm not confident about now is loosening the crankcase bolts. I
assume this is to allow tiny parting of the case halves to help pulling out
and drifting in the new bearing? Are these bolts easily accessible? Do I
need to loosen all 10 arrowed in this picture?
http://www.hpjw.co.uk/temp/haynes2.JPG

 

snip>

Don't loosen them at all, just grind the bearing away and knock the
new one in.

You'll have to remove the balls and split each race in two or you'll
never get it out but don't worry about nicking the crankcases
slightly, that won't matter. Be careful not to damage the shaft
because any nick in that will raise a stress point and it might break
one day in the future.

I do this sort of shit for a living and it's dead easy if you take
your time.

 

Exhaust bolts are in the Suzuki maintenance schedule.
They don't seize if you loosen and retorque them once a year.