Help changing rear tyre on CBR600RR3

Hi Everyone

One minute the wear indicators are showing the next I'm down to material
:-(, scarey !!!

So far it's
39.95 for a Micron Paddock stand
5.49 32mm Halfords finest 1/2" socket
5.99 27mm Halfords finest 1/2" socket

Read manual, it says
slacken adjusters, check
Undo 32mm bolt and remove, check
push wheel forward and release chain, check
undo 27mm and remove ....
nothing happens.

The tube through the wheel turns clearly when I turn the 27mm bolt,
tried to tap it from from the otherside but nothing happens.

If I really whack it will I break something ?

 

It's more than likely that it won't move because it is taking all the
weight of the wheel.

Either stick your big foot underneath the rear tyre to lift it up, or
put some wood underneath that takes the pressure/weight off the spindle.

The spindle won't move with weight on it.

When you go to put the rear tyre back on, have lots of fun as you
attempt to do the above plus replace washers and other gubbins..

It's not advisable.

And when you put the spindle back, make sure you grease it.

--
Lesley
CBR600 FW
SBS#11[with oak-leaf cluster]
BOTAFOT#101A UKRMHRC#12
BONY#54P BOB#18
Real burds don't take hormones, they rage naturally

Un-cork me to reply

 

Chain adjusters? Why?

Right then - this is the through bolt, right? Or do you mean *nut*?

Right, so the wheel isn't stuck on the brake.

That happens a lot ;-)
Smack the fucker. Don't hurt the threads, mind. Put the nut back on
so that the end of the nut is flush with the bolt but with a gap
between the inner face of the nut and the swingarm. Then smack the
end of the nut. Use a rubber or hide mallet, or a deadblow hammer -
or failing that, interpose a bit of wood between hammer and nut.

There is that - but if it rotates, it should ease out by pulling and
screwing at the same time iyswim.

That'll do. I have a big wooden wedge for this. Helps getting wheels
back on singlehanded too, when there's no spic around when you need
one.

Yeah, take note of what washer/spacer goes where, ffs.

Borrocks. A good smack should sort it, it is nearly new after all.

Good point, well made.

 

I don't know about the CBR6, but on mine it's because there is a big square
plate on either end of the axel which has the wheel alignment pointer on it
and which will be tight up against the chain adjusters.

If you don't back off the adjusters you don't have any play to move the
wheel forward, which means you can't get the chain off until you've got the
rear axel out, which is a PITA.


--
AndrewR, D.Bot (Celeritas)
Kawasaki ZX-6R J1
BOTAFOT#2,ITJWTFO#6,UKRMRM#1/13a,MCT#1,DFV#2,SKoGA#0 (and KotL)
BotToS#5,SBS#25,IbW#34, TEAR#3 (and KotL), DS#5, COSOC#9, KotTFSTR#
The speccy Geordie twat.

 

On Elly's CBR6, I remove the spindlenut, whack the spindle out and
shuffle up behind the wheel. Put my right knee under and up against
the tyre, lift and shuffle forward - unhook the chain with my left
hand and slide the wheel backwards and out. No need to upset the
chain adjustment/alignment at all.

 

Managed it with the help of poundlands finest 16oz rubber mallet, a
chunk of wood, and a claw hammer.

Wacked the spindle until it was level with the swingarm, had to hit way
too hard for a supposed new bike. I guess Mr Honda doesn't grease it.

Then I used the claw hammer to lever it out from the other side. It
needed forced every centimetre.

Does a bike shop have a hydraulic ram for doing this ?

Just as well it only needs done every 6000 miles.

Any suggestion on the type of grease when I reassemble it, my preference
is coppaslip.

 

Shit. That was *tight*, eh? Levering with a claw hammer is a bit
extreme, I hope you didn't damage the swingarm. Popping it out with a
drift is the normal way, but it shouldn't be that tough.

No, a big bloke with a drift and a hammer you don't argue with.

Anything will do, really. It is strange how the Japanese
manufacturers don't grease stuff like this, or make dealers do it at
PDI - just to save pennies. Suzuki are notorious for omitting a
fingerful of grease on their head bearings ...

Yeah, Copaslip would be fine - but a cheap lithium waterproof will do
just as good a job. You may want to run a bit of fine wet and dry
over the spindle before replacing it, just to clean off any corrosion
that's about. And I hope you can get the nut back on ;-)

 

It's what I use and I've never had any problems.


--
AndrewR, D.Bot (Celeritas)
Kawasaki ZX-6R J1
BOTAFOT#2,ITJWTFO#6,UKRMRM#1/13a,MCT#1,DFV#2,SKoGA#0 (and KotL)
BotToS#5,SBS#25,IbW#34, TEAR#3 (and KotL), DS#5, COSOC#9, KotTFSTR#
The speccy Geordie twat.

 

"Rear axle nut" is what I should have said but being halfway through a
second bottle of wine seems to have affected my motor skills. If I'd had
the owners manual handy I would even have known that the "spindle" was
in fact the "axle shaft".