help...bad starter, solenoid or main fuse?

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by twst, May 4, 2005.

  1. twst

    twst Guest

    my wife hasn't let me ride this year until i got a new back tire.
    Finally got one delivered, took the wheel off myself and got the new
    tire on.
    My battery was too low to start the bike so i hooked up the portable
    jumpstart thing and had the engine running in no time. i started it up
    about a half dozen times when all the sudden i was getting nothing:
    starter wasn't turning over and i wasn't even getting the pronounced
    "click" when i pushed the start button.
    I thoughtthe ground jumper (black) may have got knocked off the frame
    or something along those ends. I have power to the headlamp, horn and
    turn signals but, as i said, i don't get the "click" when pushing the
    button; the headlamp dims when i try to start it, which if i'm right
    means the solenoid in OK. So i'm thinking maybe its the main fuse? Or
    could it actually be the starter? Like i said, i had it cranking the
    engine on up until my questionable connection to the jumpstart thing.
    Anyone able to help? Thanks

    Oh...82 honda nighthawk 750sc
     
    twst, May 4, 2005
    #1
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  2. It couldn't be the main fuse, *everything* would be dead...
    Maybe the starter brushes are worn out? But I think your battery is too
    old to take any more than just a "surface charge". It probably has no
    capacity left at all from sitting for so long. It probably sulfated and
    charging it won't help...
     
    krusty kritter, May 4, 2005
    #2
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  3. twst

    twst Guest

    thanks for the fast reply....
    if it were the starter brushes would that acount for the missing
    "click"?
     
    twst, May 4, 2005
    #3
  4. twst

    LJ Guest

    Dimming headlight might mean little if the battery has just barely enough
    juice to light it. I'm not sure what a jumpstart thing is, but if it is
    strictly an electric gizmo, without a storage battery, than it may not do
    anything if your battery is shot.

    If you jump the bike, with a car (turned off), will the thing click or turn
    over?

    If so, cough up $28 and buy a new battery for your bike, if not remove the
    cable and clean the ends thoroughly, tighten to nuts ( the one under the
    lead as well if there is one) and try again.

    good luck
     
    LJ, May 4, 2005
    #4
  5. twst

    twst Guest

    to be more specific:
    what i have is a "portable power station". Its the kind of thing you
    keep in your car so you can jumpstart yourself is no other car is
    available to hook up to. It's got 2 jumper cables: 1 red and 1 black.
    The red one you hook up the positive terminal on the battery, the
    black one goes onto the engine frame or block or some other ground.
    You turn it on and you can start your car/ bike etc. It's basically a
    big storage battery with power to crank.
    When i turn on my key the lights are dim etc. As soon as i hook up the
    portable jumper the lights would get brighter and i had enough juice to
    start the bike. But now i get the power (bright lights) but the bike
    won't start: not so much as a "click"
     
    twst, May 4, 2005
    #5
  6. twst

    Manjo Guest

    Sure sounds like a bad battery. Specifically, a shorted battery cell.
    I had a battery with a shorted cell. It took a surface charge reading
    12.6+ volts (fully charged). When I turned the ignition to ON, the
    lights came on. But when I pressed the starter button, ALL the lights
    went out, and the starter did not turn over nor make a peep.

    You can check to see if you have the same problem: charge the battery
    and then take a volt meter reading. IF the reading is 12.4 to 12.6 VDC
    (fully charged or near fully charged), then hit the starter. IF all
    the lights go off and the bike does not start, take another voltage
    reading. If it's a bad cell, you should see a reading below 12.0
    volts.

    You can also buy a battery tester for $50 or less that has a "load"
    test capabilty (basically a resistance coil). The analog meter needle
    will give you the static voltage (battery at rest), and the voltage as
    the battery is load tested. A load test will indicate a shorted cell
    as an immediate voltage drop with the needle off the scales as soon as
    you press the tester's oad button.

    Ride safe,

    Manjo
     
    Manjo, May 4, 2005
    #6
  7. I really don't think it's your starter brushes. You should hear the
    solenoid click if the brushes are bad, though. The reason you don't
    usually notice the solenoid clicking is that the starter starts turning
    immediately and the "ying ying ying" covers up the solenoid's click...

    So maybe the motorcycle battery in your starter pack is now as weak as
    the battery in your motorbike, and both need extensive charging or even
    replacement to give you enough juice-tricity to crank it up?
     
    krusty kritter, May 4, 2005
    #7
  8. twst

    le_deuce Guest

    ---------------------------------------------------
    The reason for the lights going out when the starter button is pushed on
    some (most?) bikes is because the button has a second set of contacts that
    disconnect all non-essential circuitry (all lights, etc.,) when the starter
    motor is cranking.
    ....brian
    '01 VT750CD
     
    le_deuce, May 4, 2005
    #8
  9. I had the same thing happen on my GSX1100F/88, and it turned out that
    there was an "overload (thermal?) protector/fuse" under the seat on the
    starter relay that popped out a tiny red "pin". Then the starter was dead,
    but after pushing the pin back in after a while everything worked just
    fine.
     
    Bjørn K Nilssen, May 5, 2005
    #9
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