Headlight bulb caution

Now then. I've long been a fan of upgrading lights, especially shite
Japanese motorcycle headlights, with the simple replacement of the
55/60W bulb with a 80/100W item. I've not had a problem with this
practice - until now.

Noticing that the bulb had blown, I had a bit of a grumble to myself,
as it was less than straightforward to replace it last time ...
http://www.google.com/groups?q=+"&rnum=1

Being a bit more familiar with the RF nearly two years later (doesn't
time piss past at an ever-increasing rate, FFS?) it was easy to pop
out the still-not-replaced-with-new inner fairing panel which is only
secured with a cable tie *cough* and get at the back of the headlight.
Just as well really, as the plug didn't want to come off the bulb
prongs. Like it *really* didn't want to come off.

So I pulled the rubber boot off the rear of the headlight and sprung
(or should that be unsprung) the clip holding the bulb in, releasing
the whole shebang. This allowed a closer inspection of the bulb and
plug. The filaments looked to be OK, but the three-pronged mounting
plate had come away from the base of the bulb, the four tiny welds
having given way.

However, the plug was not well - melted in two places, the plastic had
dribbled away, taking wire insulation with it and exposing copper
conductors to two wires. Oops.

It took a bit of persuasion with a large levering-type screwdriver,
long-nosed pliers and muttered imprecations to remove the plug from
the bulb, which then fell into two pieces - the bulb, that is.
Replacement was for once simpler than disassembly, with the exception
of a heartstopping moment when it looked like the new bulb was going
to fall inside the headlight, giving rise to flashbacks of the last
time - ulp. Rescued it in the nick of time, fortunately.

Just as well that the little supplier I use didn't have a replacement
80/100W bulb, then - he did me a deal on a couple of 55/60W items in a
twin-pack, the new type with Xenon gas that makes the light output 50%
brighter, allegedly. At least returning to standard rating means that
the wiring should be capable of sustaining the current draw now,
without burning any more. Whether I'll be able to see in the dark is
another matter ...

 

I run 100/160W in the Hog. No problem with wiring.
It's not normally the heat or current draw directly that causes the
insulation to melt. It's normally the push connector to bulb that doesn't
make a secure electrical connection and then get's hot. If you take the time
to squeeze the three amp-tag push fit connectors closed then fit it back on
the bulb, and it should be a bloody tight fit at that point, then all should
be well.
Just had to replace a mates headlights on his bike. He'd had the same
problem, the bulb connector burnt out, and he was using the standard 55/60
bulbs.!

 

Eat more carrots.

 

A surprisingly versatile vegetable:
http://www.flutenveg.com/

 

However, the plug was not well - melted in two places, the plastic had

indeed...tis always wise to remove standard socket, plug the trigger
wires to your new relay pack into it...and use a heavy duty socket from
the local auto electricians to go on the 'large as you can get em bulb
now wired through relays to the battery'