Have I done something really numpty?

Why should you need to? If I had a touring bike that required me to
replace those items and was designed so they could be replaced
regularly and easily I'd be getting shot of it asap.

 

Only if the bike is in gear. If the bike in in neutral with the stand
down it will start if the kill switch is in the run position, even with
the clutch out. I know this because I start mine like that at least
four times a day, and used to do the same on all my other Kawasakis.

I don't know of any bike that cannot be started in neutral with the
stand down, as long as they are in neutral. Some require the clutch to
be pulled in, but not Kawasakis. The clutch switch on a Kawasaki only
works when the bike is in gear and the stand is left down - as the
clutch is fed out the switch will cut the ignition

 

This is why you should occasionally use the kill switch to stop the
bike, so that the neurons associated with remembering that it exists are
kept exercised.

 

Thanks. Longford Road eh? Avoiding me obviously ;-) I should have
thought about asking earlier.

 

Providing the neutral light is illuminated, it seems.

I had to disable the clutch switch on the Bandit when the choke was
sticky and required manual assistance - not having two left hands I
couldn't hold the choke on and the clutch in simultaneously when
sitting on the bike. The clutch switch had to go and I really don't
miss it.

 

Ok if you wouldn't mind. I'll drop you an email.

 

I've done that as well. Used the kill switch 'cos I stopped on a steepish
hill and would have had to use ninja co-ordination to swap from front to
back brake. Spent 10 minutes checking the effin' fuse box etc., when I tried
to restart the bike and it wouldn't.

Even more embarrasing when I'd just spent half an hour with an even older
gimmer than me explaining how modern Triumphs were so much more reliable
than the sort of things he used to ride.

 

Heh, it sure did, i never use 'em to be honest, unless i'mm doing
killswitch backfires

 

Spark plugs are a service item on most bikes. The VFR needed to be
partially dismantled to even have sight of the things. Valve
clearances on boxers could be done, even by me, in half an hour. On
the VFR, you needed to remove fairing panels, fuel tank, radiator, and
purchase Honda service tool 07GMA-ML70100. Similarly, carb balancing
was a breeze on the BMW, but best left to grown-ups on the VFR.

I had a bit of an issue with water in the fuel tank on the BMW. It
was a matter of moments to pop off the float bowls, pour the fuel back
into the tank and discard the dirty water in the bottom of the bowl.
A similar problem on the VFR would have required a recovery truck.

The barrel, piston and cylinder head replacement was due to me
exceeding the recommended service interval on the exhaust valve
(60K). Replacing the damaged items with secondhand bits from
Motorworks cost me less than, say, replacing a cam belt on your
average modern car would have. On the VFR, a dropped valve would have
seen the brute parted out. The barrel, piston and cylinder head on
the BMW are not actually service items themselves.

 

Yep, every 16,000 miles usually. That's usually when the airbox etc
needs to come off to do carb balancing and valve clearances anyway so
it's no big deal to do plugs at the same time. If my bike was in
constant need of new plugs I'd be getting shot of it.

 

And ShiteOldBoxers had a red lead coating on the inside of the tank, so
the things didn't rot away like bastard Ducati tanks.

OTOH, the red lead coating could break up and clog the carbs, which was
why I fitted inline filters on mine, plus carried a couple of spare ones
in the toolkit....

 

That's some really extreme and devious perving - breaking your prong.

Takes all kinds, though.

 

And the tanks are available in plentiful, reasonably-priced supply.

 

<sucks teeth>

While tempting fate I'd have to say that a properly prepared (unfaired)
SOAirhead is the most reliable bike one could run and the easiest to repair.