Happy Dance

The gixer is now the proud owner of two shiny new wheels with shiny new
tyres on (makes mental note) I is officially a happy bunny again.[1]

On the minus side whilst fitting new wheels and tyres noticed dirty great
scrape on fairing

[1] Removed wheels swapped all furniture (bearings, seals, disks and
carriers) myself... quite chuffed.

 

How did you manage to get the bearings out without damage? I've always
replaced any wheel bearing I've had to remove 'just in case' even if they
still seemed to be ok.

JB

 

What happened with your wheels then? Why did you swap them over? You did
use thread locking compound on the disk bolts didn't you?

 

<Waits for the "and then the front wheel just fell out" post>

 

On the advice of a mechanic, patiently tapped them out using a rammer and a
drift... he had a look at them before I put them into new wheels and said
they were fine... dum dum duuuuuuum!

 

See "Wanted GSXR1000K4 Wheels and Tyres" thread. And yes I did use
threadlock )

 

You are a little ray of golden sunshine, aren't you? )

 

I just judge others on my own mechanical abilities!

Anyway, you've proven you don't need (round) wheels on your bike to keep it
upright, so I wouldn't be worried.

 

If you tapped them out by hitting your drift (rammer!) on the inner bearing
race which the wheel spindle goes through, expect to have to replace them
soon. This is an almost guaranteed way of destroying the bearing. You can
*sometimes* get away with using an 'expanding collet' type of bearing
extractor on wheel bearings where you can't get to the outer race.
Sorry to be a bearer of bad news and all that, but your 'mechanic' should
know better.

JB

 

Ahhh... that'll be it.

 

Ok... will ask him and quote your advice, he has been a 'bike mechanic' for
20 odd years and used to mechanic for a F1 Superbike team so I took his
advice not knowing any different.

Thanks for the tip.

a rammer = hammer

 

If you picture a bright light reflecting off my head it might help, but
otherwise I agree 100%.

 

You and your bloody thread lock [1]. You worry too much ;-)

The industial revolution survived without threadlock ffs !

Cheers

Paul.

[1] The only threadlock I generally use on the bike is on sprocket
bolts and big end bolts. These would be rather unpleasant to lose at
high speed. Usually anything that absolutely has to stay on the bike
will be staked, nylocked or split pinned on.

 

I've found something else to worry about now. Copper grease and aluminum
alloys in things like brakes. Apparently, the copper in the copper
grease corrodes the aluminum alloy, which can't be a good thing where
brakes are involved. So.... so I'm told, the thing to use is called
Corrosion block grease[1].

[1]Which I now have a tub of.

 

Well, you don't usually sit out in winter, in the rain and have to deal
with fucked brakes and the like do you. Those who do, and have done
before may take this on board, they may not, I don't really mind either
way. I just know my brakes are going to be easier to take to bits than
theirs when the time comes.

 

I'm not talking about riding, I'm on about working on the things mid
winter in rain and snow.

Well, I don't really notice tbh.

 

Did you have to make a mounting plate up for those or did they just fit?

 

Bear says...

I don't understand how your 9R brakes survived 3 winters riding without
being garaged and didn't seize, given the lack of care and attention
they'd had. Those 6 pot Tokico calipers are shite and horribly prone to
corrosion. My old 9R is now sporting a lovely pair of juicy, fat and
very effective 4 pot Tokicos from a TL1000S.

 

Muck says...

Straight fit. No modification needed at all. All the mounting holes
line up exactly, the brake hoses come in to around the same position on
the caliper and at the correct angle etc. Just take the shite 6 pots
off and bin them, and stick the vastly superior 4 pots on, bleed brakes
and away you go.

 

Cooool.. I just wish that you hadn't binned the 6 pots. I could have
used those.