GoldWing breakdown update.

Re-fitted a fully Optimated battery.

Check voltage across terminals. 11.94V.

Start engine. 11.8V

Rev engine. 11.7V

Turn on all the other lights, CD, etc. 11.5V

Pull on front brake. 11.3V

Rev engine again. 11.25V

Now, I'm no auto-electrician, but that's not good, right?

Where to look next? Alternator connections? I only suspect this
because it had to be removed/refitted when the clutch was changed, and
there's a funny "whiny" noise on the overrun, which I haven't heard
before. There were only two connections, but both were secured by a
10mm nut.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SE-V/CBR1100XX-X/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..78868.../...19540.../..30836.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 PM#5 WG*
'^' RBR Clues: 29 Pts: 485 Miles: 1967

 

It's not charging. This is down to defective regulator, alternator or
supply wiring.

My money's on "expensive".

 

How much did you rev the engine? Don't they only start charging over a
certain RPM?

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Salad Dodger

"Houston, we've had a problem. We've had a main B bus undervolt."

When you say it had to be removed, do you mean just the connections, or
the alternator itself? Have you disturbed the windings? In other words,
is it possible that you've fucked up the clearance between the
alternator stator and the windings?

I'm not even sure that's possible on a 'Wing, BTW. But it might account
for the noise and the low voltages.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets
and Ducati Race Engineer.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

Wiring passes all the tests detailed in ch.17pp5-7

Regulator is *inside* the alternator.

Investigation continues.

Ebay has a High-Output alternator as BuyItNow item USD 490.

I think you could be right.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SE-V/CBR1100XX-X/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..78868.../...19540.../..30836.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 PM#5 WG*
'^' RBR Clues: 29 Pts: 485 Miles: 1967

 

Re-fitted a fully Optimated battery.

For a start I would reasonably expect over 12.2v for a charged battery in
good order.
IIRC the output from the alternator should be 13.8-14.2v at/over 1500 rpm.
Also the rear bearing on the GL 1500 alternator can wear prematurely, the
first sign of this is when a warble/hum is heard at around 2,000 to 3,000
rpm. If ignored damage may reach the point where the bearing spins and
damages the alternator casing. The bearing is a NSK 6000DU, cheap as chips
from most bearing shops.

Check the earth at the battery and also frame and obviously the connections
at the alternator. .

Voltage drop across the ranges you stated shows reduced charge at the
battery, possibly brushes on the stator sticking or need replacing. Not a
hard job, just time consuming and fiddly. I did mine when I had the 'Wing in
bits after the roadsign incident.


--



R_O_B_B_O
Trophy 1200 1998
BotaFOF #19. E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003/2004.
B.O.S.M 2003, 2004, 2005
FURSWB#1 KotL..YTC449
PM#7
..

 

Get the old one rebuilt by an alternator specialist. They can strip and
rebuild an alternator quickly and cheaply. I had the bearings and
brushes done on a car one for less than £20.

 

Muck's right. I had the Guzzi starter motor rebuilt by the local auto
electrician for £60 which was nice given an OE part is £330. Oh, and no
it's not a Fiat item...

 

The alternator itself, but that was months ago, and it worked fine up
until last Saturday.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SE-V/CBR1100XX-X/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..78868.../...19540.../..30836.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 PM#5 WG*
'^' RBR Clues: 29 Pts: 485 Miles: 1967

 

Engine out job to replace it, though, innit?

Seem okay.

Do you have to remove the four bladed coupler? The manual's a bit
vague, but I can't see how to get the alternator apart if you don't.

If I haven't got a "holding tool" can I stick it in a vice, and undo
the centre nut like that?
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SE-V/CBR1100XX-X/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..78868.../...19540.../..30836.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 PM#5 WG*
'^' RBR Clues: 29 Pts: 485 Miles: 1967

 

It's supposed to pump out 40A all the way from 2000rpm to the redline.

That Compufire I'd spotted earlier (as had Robbo) puts out 60A at
idle.

1.3KW - I'd have to buy some more lights.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SE-V/CBR1100XX-X/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..78868.../...19540.../..30836.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 PM#5 WG*
'^' RBR Clues: 29 Pts: 485 Miles: 1967

 

I shall investigate. Ta.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SE-V/CBR1100XX-X/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..78868.../...19540.../..30836.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 PM#5 WG*
'^' RBR Clues: 29 Pts: 485 Miles: 1967

 

Salad Dodger wrote

What is it, 740 Watts a Horse Power?

That is 2Hp times inefficiencies in generation being robbed from your
motor just to keep the lights on. Disgraceful I calls it.



--
steve auvache
750 VT Shadow (something for the weekend)
Bindit 600 (was lost and now is found)
GS500E (small but perfectly formed)
mongvan (dehydrated)

 

http://www.zyworld.com/GoldWingProductReviews/EngineElectronics.htm
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SE-V/CBR1100XX-X/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..78868.../...19540.../..30836.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 PM#5 WG*
'^' RBR Clues: 29 Pts: 485 Miles: 1967

 

Take the alternator unit to your local auto electrician (Yellow Pages)
for testing/repair. It'll save a lot of heart ache amd hassle.

 

For a start I would reasonably expect over 12.2v for a charged battery in

Nope.
You can get the Alternator out without removing the donkey

Tight and clean? ( the alternator, not your wallet!)

IIRC the brushes are the other end.

Must admit I did have the advantage of an air nut gun. I have been able to
hold the outer using a filter wrench before. Use a couple of bits of
aluminium in the vice to save damaging the alternator


--



R_O_B_B_O
Trophy 1200 1998
BotaFOF #19. E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003/2004.
B.O.S.M 2003, 2004, 2005
FURSWB#1 KotL..YTC449
PM#7
..

 

Having just been there I can only agree.

 

Sound advice, Mr W.

<googles>
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SE-V/CBR1100XX-X/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..78868.../...19540.../..30836.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 PM#5 WG*
'^' RBR Clues: 29 Pts: 485 Miles: 1967

 

Often it's just the brushes that have gone (on alternators) IME but when
you try to buy brushes you can't get them. If you're lucky you can get
a combined regulator/brush assembly these days.

Domestic appliance shops often have a selection of inexpensive brushes
that can be cut to size though.

 

I did this to a mates tired BMW alternator. We bought some brushes that
almost fitted from a local motor factor, then shaped them to fit and
soldered them in.