Glodwing fails to proceed

Well...it hasn't actually *failed* to proceed, but a mighty fine
grinding noise issueth forth from the rear brake

I have contacted Honda demanding a reason as to why the motorbiycle is
making this unusual noise after only 17 yrs of service...I expect a
response forthwith from the Chief Engineer

 

X-No-archive: yes

Maybe you forgot to connect the air-lines up to the prime mover...
Clem

 

Sure that ain't the final drive? Drain the oil and see
if there's metal in it. And put some new stuff in, natch.

-----sharks

 

Maybe you forgot to connect the air-lines up to the prime mover...

mmmmmm...nooo, then it would go slower than usual...and billowing smoke
would accompany the noise

there is no smoke

 

What's a Glodwing?

Theo

 

Pull your brakes apart, you have probably just worn them down metal to metal

 

Thats where his problem is, it goes down the road sounding
glod glod glod glod glod glod

 

It's a motorbiycle.

Postman Pat

 

A quick check with a torch confirmed brake pads worn out...+ a bit.

Calls local Honda shop...rear brake pads, yemmate got some in stock

FIRK!! sayeth me...expecting some overnight or something

So $40 later (not even exorbitantly priced!) I set out to fit same, with
instructions below at hand.

The following ensued;

Instructions worked
Pads were the correct ones
No bolts or pins were seized, stripped or otherwise unhealthy
Job took 2 hrs
Only needed 8mm socket, 12mm socket, 14mm spanner and 1 allen key

Bike sounds kewl with no mufflers, and looks soo cute with no luggage
pack that it is tempting to remove entirely same and fit rear guard /
lights / solo seat and ride like that...but then where would I put all
the 'stuff'

Instructions for access to rear end;


Here's the EASY way to get the rear wheel off of a 1500. It takes about
10 minutes (15 if you're not a mechanic). And you can do it on the side
of the road if you need to. You don't have to remove trunks or lights.
No electrical connectors to take loose. You can even leave your hitch on!

1. Put the bike on the center stand. You don't need any jacks or
blocks. Empty the trunks if you've got much weight in them.
2. Remove the seat (two allen-head bolts on each side in the handles).
3. Remove the shields at the fronts of the mufflers (two bolts on
each side).
4. Loosen (do not remove) the exhaust pipe/muffler clamps (total of
four bolts, two at the front of each muffler).
5. Remove the muffler bolts under the trunks (one each side), and
rotate the mufflers down.
6. Support the rear assembly with a jack or block (taking
precautions to protect the rear body work). Open the side trunks. On the
inside wall of each trunk, near the front, is a rubber plug (on the
SE/Aspencade, the air hose passes through this plug in the right trunk).
Remove the plugs and REMOVE the bolt behind each plug (one each side).
7. Where the seat was, near the back, and just behind the shock
mounts, are two bolts, one on each side of the frame, holding the rear
frame to the main frame. Loosen (do not remove) these two bolts.
8. Step around to the back of the bike, take hold of the trunks
underneath, and lift. The whole rear end (trunks, lights, hitch and all)
will lift up and pivot on the two upper frame bolts, exposing the rear
wheel and axle! Raise it up until the antennas touch the handlebars, and
secure it in place. I looped a rope around the handlebars and tied it to
the trunk rack to hold it up.
9. Loosen the bottom left shock bolt. Pull the axle and the brake
caliper (lay the caliper on the crash bar). Slide the wheel left and
it's out!
10. Reassembly is in reverse order of assembly. YOU MAY NEED A SECOND
PERSON to help you lower the trunk pack back into position. This is
because it may be necessary to pull out on the fronts of the side trunks
while lowering them, so they will pass over the top mounts of the rear
crash bars.
11. With support under the back end of the trunk pack, use a small
mirror to look through the access holes in the side trunks. Line up the
bolt holes in the rear crash bars with the holes in the frame. Start the
bolts, then lower the trunk pack into position and tighten the bolts.

The whole rear assembly is held on by the two top bolts, the
bolts at the tops of the rear crash bars (the ones behind the rubber
plugs) and the muffler bolts.

The frame pieces behind the trunks do not have holes for the
bolts, just slots. When you reassemble the trunk pack to the frame, you
can support the back of the trunk pack so the slots are just above the
bolts. Start the bolts through the crash bars into the frame, then when
you lower the pack into position, the slots will engage the bolts. Then
you can tighten them down.

If you're on the side of the road, you can lower the rear
assembly back down, put the seat back on, and lock your parts in the
trunk while you get your tire repaired. This gives you access to the
swing arm and shocks, too. You can service the whole rear end, replace
shocks, etc., without disassembling the trunks.

 

Made by Hodna

ck

 

And all that would have taken three weeks to do

 

And all that would have taken three weeks to do

No, what takes 3 weeks to do is for me to find the time to take the
front wheel from The Jackal to the tyre shop to get it refitted (got a
bit of grit between the tyre and the rim, causing a deflation).


BTH

 

you wanna include the footnote for the sake of the humour impaired?

Moike

 

****! Looks like the Oscars!
http://lamp.man.deakin.edu.au/riding/03Readies/img_100_0339.html

Gary

 

What, to replace the swarf that he took out?


BTH

 

well there *were* some outstanding performances!

Moike

 

****! Looks like the Oscars!


Thats why one has hard luggage on ones motorbicycle...so ones soot is
not crushed!!