GL1500: Evans Waterless Cooling Q?

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by mystro'd, Feb 9, 2006.

  1. mystro'd

    mystro'd Guest

    I know racers have been using Evans and read a GW tip site talking
    about Evans NPG, a waterless coolant which is supposedly a performance
    enhancer, plus requires no change out, EVER! However,I'm looking for
    first hand knowledge of this approach?

    BTW,I'm getting timing belts so will need to drain the system..a good
    time to change it.
     
    mystro'd, Feb 9, 2006
    #1
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  2. mystro'd

    Wudsracer Guest



    If you are having cooling problems (running hot in the summer, etc),
    the Evans product will help you out.

    However, if you blow a hose, or have a coolant leak, you must either
    refill with Evans, or purge the system of Evans and add water.

    If you are not having problems, I would stick to a high grade
    radiator fluid. I use Spectro All Season Radiator fluid; no water. It
    is more expensive than some other brands, but nothing ever settles out
    of the fluid, and my radiator cores stay clean., no scale or
    corrosion.


    Jim Cook
    Smackover Racing
    Gas Gas DE300
    Team LAGNAF
    www.smackovermotorsports.com
    Once you're Over the Hill, You just pick up Speed!
     
    Wudsracer, Feb 9, 2006
    #2
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  3. mystro'd

    mystro'd Guest


    Engineers have never figured everything out and never will,where would
    the world be if
    we stopped developing,you'd be running wooden wheels on your bike
    otherwise. ;=)

    Evans Cooling product from what I've been reading..is an improvement
    over conventional water-based cooling solutions.
     
    mystro'd, Feb 9, 2006
    #3
  4. mystro'd

    John Johnson Guest

    http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm

    I certainly don't use the stuff, but there's the link to the
    manufacturer.

    Their claims are centered around three points, AFAICT:
    1. Higher natural boiling point: means that the system can operate at
    lower pressures, extending life of hoses and fittings. While it's true
    that a higher natural boiling point should result in lower pressure
    operation, all else being equal, it's important to note that the
    pressure on the cap is not necessarily the pressure that the system is
    operating at. Without actually testing the installation on your bike,
    it's rather difficult to know whether you are operating at a lower
    cooling system pressure or not. As for hose/fitting life, My bike's 12
    years old and on original hoses and fittings. I don't know how much
    longer one wants them to last.

    2. Higher natural boiling point reduces localized boiling and vapor
    formation, leading to increased cooling efficiency. Again, this is true
    all else being equal. However, most road-going motorcycles do not have
    difficulty with localized boiling, AFAIK. Race engines might very well
    experience these problems as a result of increased state of engine tune
    and the limitations on coolants allowed on the race-track.

    WRT increased cooling efficiency, so long as one can keep the water from
    boiling, it's difficult to find a more efficient fluid for removing heat
    from something than water. If NPG coolants have poorer thermal
    properties than water, then the efficiency gains resulting from
    increased boiling point will be (partially, at least) offset by losses
    in the efficiency of the heat transfer to the fluid.

    3. "lifetime" coolant. Evans advertises their coolants as passing
    10-year/500,000 mile in-vehicle tests for efficiency, etc. This might be
    a good reason to change to Evans, if changing your coolant is too
    onerous. It is worth noting however that:
    a) These tests might not apply to motorcycles (I just don't know)
    b) long-life coolants are available in many formulations
    c) if you have to drain the coolant for another job having "lifetime"
    coolant is less significant, because re-filling with new coolant is no
    more difficult than putting the old stuff back.

    A caution about NPG coolants. You need to make sure that it will work on
    motorcycles. The original NPG coolants had a substantially higher
    viscosity than ethylene glycol-based coolants, and wouldn't flow through
    the smaller passages of a motorcycle's radiator, and would put
    substantially more stress on your water pump. I see that Evans does
    advertise a motorcycle-specific, low viscosity, formula.

    Note also that they recommend a coolant change every year or every other
    year "for maximum corrosion protection" with this product.

    A final caution about NPG coolants, you won't be able to top up your
    cooling system with water (or anything other than Evans NPG-R, actually)
    on the road if you use this product. Make sure that you have a ready
    supply of coolant, and/or to make sure that anyone doing work on your
    bike knows what you've got in it so that they don't screw it up by
    adding water.

    And that pretty much explains why I don't use the stuff in my bike: it
    may or may not be better than what I'm currently using. OTOH, my bike
    doesn't overheat either. Furthermore, the advantages of keeping my bike
    stock outweigh the advantages offered by NPG coolants. That's my
    opinion, and my reasoning. Your situation may differ, and your
    conclusions might change as a result. fwiw

    --
    Later,
    John



    'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.
     
    John Johnson, Feb 9, 2006
    #4
  5. mystro'd

    Wudsracer Guest


    An excellent summary, John.

    One note: If one is having problems with overheating, and nothing
    else has helped, the Evans coolant will drop your operating temps from
    20 to 40 degrees F.

    The above information is from the mechanic for the 2004 Gas Gas GNCC
    Team quad riders. The riders on the 4-stroke quads were having a hard
    time keeping coolant in them.
    First, they tried an improved water pump housing and an improved water
    pump impeller. This helped, but not enough.
    They switched to Evans coolant, which brought their operating temps
    down from 240 F to 205 F. It does have better heat transfer
    properties.

    Having said that, I wont use it, because my bike(s) don't need it.
    Also, If I were to need to top off the radiator during a ride, I can
    currently use anything from creek water, to water from my camelbak, to
    human urine. It doesn't matter. If it is a relatively clean water
    soluble liquid, it will work.

    It isn't broke, and I'm not going to fix it.

    Jim Cook
    Smackover Racing
    Gas Gas DE300
    Team LAGNAF
    www.smackovermotorsports.com
    Once you're Over the Hill, You just pick up Speed!
     
    Wudsracer, Feb 10, 2006
    #5
  6. mystro'd

    SoCalMike Guest

    i dont see anything on there that makes it better than ANYTHING, and
    likely worse than straight distilled water..

    it still requires biannual changes, like the "old" stuff
    some isnt recommended for daily drivers (WTF?)
    when it gets cold (-10 degrees), it GELS! just what i need- a radiator
    full of jello!

    sounds like a crock of crap to me, like scamsoil, royal purple, TRICK
    racing gas, K&N, etc, etc.

    might as well fill up quart milk jugs with piss and market it to squids
    as a "all natural" coolant, for $10/ea.

    maybe call it "royal trick yellow!"

    ill stick with my prestone dexcool equivalent.
     
    SoCalMike, Feb 10, 2006
    #6
  7. mystro'd

    SoCalMike Guest

    i can say the same about the prestone in the silver jug. change as
    recommended every 2 years, no scale, never cloudy, looks the same coming
    out as it did going in.
     
    SoCalMike, Feb 10, 2006
    #7
  8. mystro'd

    John Johnson Guest

    Well, I'd say it's really hard to tell whether it would be worse than
    straight water or standard antifreeze, just as it would be hard to tell
    whether it's better, outside of fairly well-defined environments.

    Heck, under certain conditions diesel fuel and motor oil gel, that
    doesn't make either product worthless. Similarly, straight water, while
    having quite good thermal properties, is not the best choice for most
    automotive cooling applications (because of a relatively low boiling
    point, tendency to encourage corrosion, etc.).

    The point of both of my posts in this thread is that there are
    conditions under which something like NPG makes sense, conditions under
    which plain water makes sense, and conditions under which standard
    coolant makes sense. Before switching from standard coolant to something
    else, one should know the answers to the following questions:
    1) What conditions apply in my case?
    2) What problem am I attempting to solve with this change?
    3) How likely is this product to solve the problem?
    4) What problems might this change cause?

    Unless the OP can give a specific problem that they are trying to solve,
    then I'd unhesitatingly recommend the stock (or equivalent) coolant.
    Even if the OP can point to such a problem, my recommendation may not
    change; that would depend strongly on particular circumstances.

    --
    Later,
    John



    'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.
     
    John Johnson, Feb 10, 2006
    #8
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