Frozen clutch, stuck in gear

Hey...MORE GREAT NEWS!

I tried all of the suggestions that Krusty gave to me and nothin
seemed to work. I was trying everything I could without removing th
clutch inner hub because of that nasty nut that is on so tight
Finally, I got looking closely and I began to think that this had bee
fooled with before. The lockwasher which goes between the washers afte
the nut seemed like it had been pryed at with a knife or screwdriver. S
I got the girlfriend over and I tried to break it free with a wrench an
a 2 x 4 to hold it in place while I broke it loose with the ratche
(1.25") I had just bought. Turns out, I didn't break it loose, but
did break the little nub which the clutch bolt goes into (yay!). S
this really sucks now, but I saw some interesting stuff while I was i
there. I looked around briefly and reached over the bike. I watched th
shifting mechanism on the side behind the clutch and saw the secto
gears wiggle in the upward direction, but were fully jammed up. As soo
as I looked on the other side, I noticed what was happening: Th
shifting mechanism sector gear which meshes with the sector gear bolte
to the cylindrical shifting drum...it just wasn't working right. Coul
it be that the little plate (bracket?) behind the device going to th
shifting drum...had a screw that wasn't tightened. This device ha
about 1/32nd of an inch of clearance and that screw was out about
turns. I turned that little sucker till it was tight and now I ca
shift all of the gears no problem.

I haven't figured out if the clutch is still hard to pull in onl
because I need the new inner hub before I can bolt all this back in
Once I do that, I think I will get it back to running (oil, cleanup
exhaust, etc.) and then remove the cover over the clutch mechanis
which pushes the pushrod in and see if I can loosen that screw t
loosen the clutch. My main worry is that the clutch already seems to b
slightly engaged while starting and running and I am worried tha
loosening the tension to adjust it will just make it worse. Is ther
anything else I should check to find out why that darn clutch lever i
so hard to pull in?

BY the way, I have MANY close up pictures of the whole process an
problem I found behind the clutch if anyone is interested. You might b
able to get a better idea of what I mean and maybe even see what I mea
when I talk about all of the tampering I found. So if you ar
interested, just send me an e-mail address or something and maybe I ca
show you what I mean.

I am also gonna have to figure out the problem it is having wit
running. The bike seems to want to stall due to low idle at start-u
and requires afew punches of the throttle to stay running. Once warm
hitting either brake too hard tries to (or does) kill the motor whil
riding. The only way I can get it to run right is with the choke o
(which keeps the tach at about 3-4 grand). If I fiddle with it to ge
it running good, I can get it to settle pretty nicely right around 150
rpms, but it just seems like it isn't running very well. I tried messin
with the idle adjustment screw...which just did absolutely nothin
except burn my hand. Oh well, at leaste I might be able to ride i
soon...gotta get an inspection after fixing the clutch...what a joy.

Thanks for all the help guys,
Bill

 

I'm not sure what you broke, but another poster once said that he broke
off one of the four thingumbobs that the clutch pressure plate bolts
thread into. In order to get the center hub nut loose, all you have to
do is put the transmission in gear, and stick a 2 X 4 between the swing
arm and the rear wheel spokes and break the nut loose. Hopefully the
previous mechanic didn't put any Loctite on that nut, it takes heat
from a propane torch to melt red Loctite and then while you're trying
to uncrew the nut it feels like it's cross threaded.

Some progress has been made anyway...

Have you measured the thickness of the fiber plates and counted the
steel plates to make sure there isn't an extra one in there? Sometimes
home mechanics add a steel plate when the clutch slips. That preloads
the clutch springs. Also, have you taken the springs to a motorcycle
shop to be tested for stiffness? You need at least one new clutch
spring to compare the old ones with, or you can use the spring rate
calculator I mentioned to find out how stiff the springs are. You need
the shop manual for information on what the minimum clutch spring rate
should be...

Your fuel air mixture is too lean at idle because the idle jets and
passages are plugged up. You need to clean the carbs out, or at least
run 3 ounces of Berryman's B-12 ChemTool Choke and Carburetor Cleaner
through a full tank of gasoline. Repeat until you've used up the whole
can. It costs about $3.00 at Wal-Mart. It's the liquid B-12, not the
aerosol.

I've posted how to disassemble, clean, and re-adjust carburetors at
least 100 times on rec.motorcycles.tech, so google for "kaybearjr@aol
+idle" and "spectraltarsier@aol +idle" to see all the words I've typed
about dirty carburetors.