Frozen clutch, stuck in gear

Bryan, I did take the bolts out of the clutch (pressure plate...on th
outside by the crank cover?) I removed the springs and all the plate
and disks. They did have suction to them from the oil, but they slid
right apart. I was told to use the "Grabbit" tool to hold the clutc
in place while removing that nut (clutch hub) and that it requires
new lockwasher when re-installing. So I never did get the hub off t
look behind it, so I guess I will have to do that. I guess I wil
review your procedures and print them before I tackle that job. I hav
great mechanical skills and have been rebuilding classic cars an
re-selling through high school and now into college. I once owned a 9
CBR 600 f4i and decided this year to try motorcycles to shorten th
turn over time. This bike will be mine until I can find something afte
making some profit.

Back to the bike:
I can follow all the procedures you describe except for the reductio
gear part. Where will I find this gear? Behind the clutch hub? I wa
assuming it was hung up at the starter only because I know this can b
somewhat common. If you could, just run over that proceedure or cop
the parts you have already written and maybe it will make sense
second time I drained the tank today which was slightly brown, bu
the carbs look amazingly new, including the sliders with perfec
motion. My only complaint now is that I need to ride the d**n thing.

Thanks again for the help,
Billy

Yes, the bike does have a switch for the sidestan

 

So. The clutch wasn't "frozen" after all.

The shops sell a lot of Grabbits to home mechanics that will use them
ONE time and never need them again.

If you need to continue to remove the entire clutch, you can buy a
Grabbit
to get hold of the inner hub, or you can make up a special tool out of
an old steel clutch disk. The inner teeth of the steel plates engage
the grooves in the inner hub.

Just weld a piece of flat stock about 15" long X 3/4" wide X 1/8" thick
to the old steel clutch plate and hold the inner hub with that home
made
tool. If you have some 1/4" thick steel rod, weld two of the steel rods
side by side to the old steel clutch plate. I never owned a Grabbit,
nor have I ever built a special tool. I always found a way to keep that
danged inner hub from turning, like the 2 by 4 in the wheel spokes with
the transmission in gear trick. And it seems like your tranny is STUCK
in gear already. Hmmmmmm.

But, before removing the clutch basket, if you happen to already have
the required large socket wrench or even a large adjustable wrench that
will fit the big nut, you can try gently turning the nut in the
tightening direction while trying to work the shift lever to see if
that breaks the transmission free.

If you do remove the large nut, the torque spec for my GSXR-750 is 36
to 51 foot pounds. It's probably the same for your Kan o' Tuna.

And you can turn the clutch basket counterclockwise with the spark
plugs removed to see if the engine turns freely.

How old is "classic"? We used to define cars as "antique" if they were
built in the 1920's, and "vintage" or "classic" cars were built in the
1930's and 1940's. A Model T Ford was an antique. A Model A was a
classic.

I helped a friend restore a 1931 Model A Ford Roadster. The rich
collectors with their Pierce Arrows looked down their noses at us
plebeians with Model A Fords.

One guy I worked with sold me his 1935 Auburn after his wife left him
for not paying enough attention to her. His life was in the garage with
the Auburn that he'd been working on for 10 years. I bought the Auburn
for $400 and turned around and sold it immediately to buy a sports car.
I had no idea the Auburn would be worth $100K some day...

The reduction gear I mentioned is under the cover on the LEFT side of
the engine. Look at the STARTER CLUTCH fiche. If you take that cover
off, you can just pull the 1/2" diameter pin out of the reduction gear,
and set the reduction gear aside.

If you grab the idler gear, you should then be able to turn it
clockwise, but when you try to turn it counterclockwise, the starter
clutch rollers will turn the starter clutch body which turns the
crankshaft.

The large idler gear shouldn't move up and down or back and forth. It
might rock slightly, but you don't want any large amount of slop in the
idler gear bushing.

Before you put the reduction gear and its pin back into the the hole it
came out of, turn the idler gear once more in the counterclockwise
direction to be sure the cylindrical rollers aren't jammed against the
idler gear.