Front sprocket nuts,,,again.

In order to shift mine I had to:

A) Position the bike with the front wheel against a wall
B) Lock the back brake on with a piece of wood jammed in the peg hanger
C) Select first gear
D) Wedge the bike with another piece of wood so it wouldn't tumble over
E) Use a 27mm deep socket on a 2 foot breaker bar with a 6 foot scaffold
pole on the end and heave like **** on the end of scaffold pole to get
it to move. In doing so I managed to make the breaker bar bend like
Robin Hood's bow and lift the bike a couple of inches in the air.
There's no way that was only done up to 150Nm.

Why do people insist on over-tightening sprocket nuts like this? I have
to buy a new nut at 12 quid now because this one is fucked. It wasn't
damaged in the removal process but you can bet the threads have been
stretched way beyond their usefulness by the over-tightening.

 

Instead of all this, wouldn't it be easier to stick a handy short piece
of scaffold (like what I've got in my garage) through the back wheel and
across the swing arm - with plenty of padding, of course.

cf. removal of AndrewR's front sprocket. At least you knew not to remove
the chain first...

Ummm... if the threads on the nut are that fucked, then surely the
threads on the output shaft must be equally fucked?

 

Lozzo wrote

because they are fucking pikeys. They haven't yet sussed out that even
investing 30 quid in a couple of modest torque wrenches will save them a
lifetime of expensive guesswork. That or the **** didn't give a ****
because he would not be holding on to the bike for long and thinks the
next owner is a muppet.

 

Eddie says...

Not easy, means removing the hugger, which means removing the back wheel
then putting it all back in to remove the nut, then stripping it all out
gain to put the hugger back afterwards, then putting the wheel back in
again etc etc. Too much aggro when I can just wedge the front against a
wall and lock the brake on.

No, the shaft is a hardened gear shaft, the nut is normal mild steel.
The nut will always stretch first. I ordered a new one and a new lock
washer as soon as I realised the nut was tightened so badly 2 days ago.

 

Air impact wrench. Probably the same as the pikey mechanic used to put it
on.

JB

 

Champ says...

Work it out. End of 6 foot scaffold pole lifting 185kg of bike in the
air from about its mid point, pivoting on the front wheel before it
cracked off. I'm crap at maths and wouldn't even have a clue where to
start, but I'm sure the FOAK won't let us down on this one. Really, this
was way way overtightened.

 

Some loosen up over time. When I changed the one on the GTS, I unfolded
the locking tabs to find the 'kin thing was loose =:-O

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, mb

That'll be due to the incredible forces it experiences under braking.

--
Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
ZZR1100, Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"

 

Not a drama as long as it hadn't been so loose it was wearing the splines
heavily. It can minimise wear on the sprocket if it can find its own line
against swinging arm flex...

 

Lozzo emerged from their own little world to say

SNIP

<lovingly pats shaft drive>

 

Heh, I'll have to change that, I never get any bites.
http://www.mts.net/~neelin/motorcycle/biblio.html halfway down the page
"Stop Action..."

 

It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the

I know; the cunts who do that use an air tool. Should be rammed up their
arse, imo. Quite what it might do to the much more expensive to replace
thread on the output shaft, I'd rather not think about.

--

Dave

GS 850 x2 / SE 6a
SbS#6 DIAABTCOD#16 APOSTLE#6 FUB#3
FUB KotL OSOS#12? UKRMMA#19 COSOC#10

 

Having had the front sprocket come loose while riding along twisties,
and thus depositing engine oil just in front of the rear wheel I can
tell you it's no barrel of laughs if you under-tighten it.

That nut got tightend to specified torque, had threadlock on it and had
a folded washer holding it in place. That didn't do the job, so it got
double everything next time round.

 

The most probable explanation, already suggested, has to do
with berserk air tool use.
On my XT, this nut would rattle loose no matter how I tried to
get the lock tabs just right. But instead of brute force I used a
few drops of Loktite and the problem was gone and the force
required for loosening it is almost reasonable.

 

Ah, yes - didn't realise you had a hugger. That would get in the way
slightly.

 

Eddie says...

It does...lots. I've never seen a hugger that was so awkward to remove,
there's brackets all over the place.

 

Odd... most of them have ~4 screws into the swingarm, and you can
remove/refit them without removing the back wheel.

 

Eddie says...

This has a convoluted brace that runs down the inside and along to the
rear of the offside, to steady the bit of hugger that goes toward the
back. It's a nice looking hugger, but the bracketry is horrible and I
may change it for something of my own design that doesn't require the
wheel to be removed first.

 

Lozzo wrote

1) Take bike to local garage
2) Take out 4 pack of beer
3) Hand to Mechanic
4) Mechanic uses zip gun to loosen front sprocket
5) Tighten up sprocket with socket and breaker bar
6) Ride gingerly home
7) Remove sprocket with your favourite socket.

Outlay no more than 4 quid (i.e. don't buy anything decent, it's only
a grease monkey). No gashed knucles or broken tools/ bike.

Job done,

Cheers,

Paul.