four hundred four strangeness

<ippm>
There may be snow upon the roof...
</ippm>

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+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

In communiqué <>,

No, not exactly practical in a race paddock between races or even during
an endurance race though.

I guess I'm just impatient.
--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

In communiqué <1iqxkfe.dnlm0uhmh0pmN%>,

I've never done it (well since the days when I was bodging an Excelsior
Talisman), and guess what? It's always worked. The most recent occasion
being the SO faux WR250.


--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

I coat (certain) gaskets with grease simply so I can split the parts
easily at a later date.

 

<AOL>

 

Well, if you anticipate having to change them (always expect the
unexpected), pre-soak a set?

 

I always use HMP grease for that - looks like earwax - probably is.

 

It has always been recommended for cork plates, [1]
http://www.kingslynnscootershop.co.uk/clutch-corks---surflex-430-p.asp
But I don’t think its necessary for newer fibre type material.
No idea what new or replacement Japbike plates are made of.

[1] And plunger type petrol tap corks on SOBB




-

 

In communiqué <>,

IME they usually give plenty of warning of needing changing, so
preventative maintenance is the answer. I still won't bother soaking
them, just oil the surfaces as Champ says.

--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

IME just coating the surface of the plates on reassembly of a wet clutch
is all that is necessary, and I've rebuilt a few clutches over the
years.

--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

So have I - most of them on SOBB

 

Well, quite, but putting them under the bed in a shoe box with a
couple of dead toads for a week also won't do them any harm.

But here's the key thing - it won't do any fucking good either.

 

Er, yes, which is why you reassemble with oil. But there's absolutely
no need to soak them in oil for an hour.

 

The message <>

If they *ARE* (as stated up^ there somewhere) based on cork, dead toads
might do them a lot of harm, and soaking in oil, a lot of good.

 

Railko ones aren't, they're wierd fibre stuff, and do ideed need
pre-soaking.

They stopped using them in favour of taper roller sets, then they started
using them again on the top bush of ABS-equipped rangies and discos, the pin
being a larger diameter is suited to being bored for an ABS sensor.

 

Ah, well, I've had and ridden and worked on bikes with cork-insert
clutches, and my old 2¾ hp Douglas had acetylene lighting TAAAW.

However, I did start biking in the '50s...

 

I started biking in the late '70s and I *have* encountered cork clutch
plates. Admittedly this was on a Jawa.

 

lighting the welding torch the other day, it came to my attention that to
get a decent light from acetylene, you need a tad of oxy in it. Starting
from no extra oxy, you get a smoky yellow flame. add a tad of oxy and the
flame becomes bright white, and add more and it goes blue.

 

Well my EBC clutch plates arrived and not only do they look like cork,
it has this on the back:

'....cork based material similar to original equipment and must be
soaked for few hours in the manufacturers recommended drive case oil
before installation.'

Can I let the toads go now?

 

Not at this time of the year - or they'll croak.