For those who change their oil themselves and need tools

Halfords currently has a special on - if you buy the 5l can of their own
5W40 fully synthetic cage oil, you get a set of their professional 1/4"
tools (ratchet, sockets, extension etc) free...

 

Damn, I really doubt that's suitable for bike wet clutches.

 

Probably not, but the BMW has a dry clutch. Mind you, it'd do wonders
for the oil consumption as I think it's a bit too thin...

 

I dunno, the sign was only up with the car oil (and I needed the car oil
anyway). No such sign was visible at down where the M/C oil is parked.

 

online here

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/
product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_197033_langId_-1_categoryId_77306

 

I'd fucking want a free socket set at that money. Last 3/8ths socket set I
bought cost me about £25 and the last lot of oil was 25 litres at around
£1/litre. Granted it's not fully synth but it does meet the specs I need.

 

You could throw in the car if not.

I think I'll be having a bimble to Halfords tomorrow anyway.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

If, as Timo said, they're the "professional" series, they're guaranteed for
life. I bet your 25 squid set isn't.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Eh? If you don't *want* fully synth oil, then don't buy it. I view it as
cheap insurance in a trackday car, and I don't have the space to store
various 25l cans of oil anyway.

"Professional" is what it says on the box, but oddly enough not on the
ratchet. That said, the finish and feel matches the other Halford's pro
tools I have. The sticker price also suggests that these are pro tools
.

 

Diesel car, thobut.

 

TBH I've no idea. I've yet to break any of the kit despite being a fairly
heavy handed sort. Best tool you can have is a lump hammer .

 

I used Castrol synthetic (for a car) in the VN and it made the bike feel
MUCH smoother, without affecting the wet clutch. I forgot to check if it had
friction modifiers in the mix too, but I'm not convinced that all this "car
only/bike only" advise is as sound as we're led to believe.

If there's no mention of friction modifiers, it goes in my bike(s).

And can't diesels run synthetic?

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

And their pro tools are fucking good too, as is their guarantee. Equal to
Snap-On, I'd say.

btw, who was it who sent me a few Snap-on bits and pieces? If you can
remember, let me know, we have a result.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Aye, the Birmingham screwdriver.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Even 25l drums of Synth seem to change hands at around £95. There's still a
whacking great margin on the oil if you buy it in 5l packs, and I'd imagine
you'd be doing a fair few changes for a track car. If there's any way you
can store a drum of oil, then there's a lot more money to be saved than a
free socket set.

 

I have certainly experienced clutch slip in a bike, by using the wrong
grade of oil, but that was because I shoved 20/50 in a bike intended for
10/40, and it slipped when cold.

Generally, yes, I agree with you. I'll buy the stuff and grab the
toolkit.

 

Like that one WUN came out with when he described the damage in Manchester
after the footie. "1.5 million quids worth of improvements". I thought that
was piss funny, but the screwdriver thing depends on where you come from.
Apparently the phrase "Glasgow screwdriver" is a popular description too,
but Birmingham seems more "right" IYKWIM.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

My R1150 hardly uses any oil at all now I've switched to 20W50. Although,
on cold mornings[1] it takes the starter motor a few spins before it gets
the engine up to speed...

[1] not that I use the bike very often when it is cold...

 

Reminds me that I'll have to convince Brian to use 20W50 for the summer
as the oil consumption on my 1150 is also directly related to the
outside temperature...